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Old 06-05-2014, 09:47 AM   #15
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Old Scout thanks for the tip with the washers. I tried it but my washers were not wide enough so it wouldn't stretch enough! I used plastic shims and attached the springs to my toad base plate and a convenient post and backed up about 4 inches and put the shims in and then cut off the excess and they went on without a problem.

BTW the repair shop that had my MH (Poulsbo RV of Mt Vernon) charged me $48 (24 minutes) to "inspect" my jack and couldn't find any model numbers anywhere so they took the old spring and measured it and came up with a part number. I spent 30 seconds with some degreaser and found the model number and serial number, called HWH and had the correct part number. The pair was 27$ plus shipping. The shop wanted 81$ each spring plus install!

I sent pictures of my hard work locating the model number and have asked for a refund. They have thus far refused. Whatever the outcome I will NEVER go back to them and I urge anyone that is in the area to use good judgement before going there.


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Old 06-05-2014, 01:50 PM   #16
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Sounds good--the washer tip came from a HWH maint tech last Jan in Quartzsite--never tried it myself but suspected it would take a number of washers to achieve the expanded length.....

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Old 06-07-2014, 06:08 AM   #17
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I just read on another thread that you can also use clothe pins to expand the springs. That sounds good too.

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Old 06-07-2014, 06:39 AM   #18
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I used the neighbor kid who was 6'5" and about 250#'s.
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Old 06-07-2014, 07:45 AM   #19
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I use a pair of vice grips and some serious muscle on my Power Gear springs.

On the HWH the pad is on a ball mount it can tilt a bit and you can just hammer or jack it back to level.. To jack back (assume this is a 2 spring jack)

Put floor or bottle jack under low edge of jack, Jack it up, pad should level, IF using a floor jack you might be able to go a bit past level but do not try this with a bottle jack.

Hook up spring, Remove hand jack, extend power jack, and retract, all should be good.
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Old 06-07-2014, 09:29 AM   #20
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Here's what we did: with the cylinder fully retracted (we used a bottle jack) and the springs attached to the jack foot, put the back edge of the foot under the cylinder. Then, using a long crescent wrench, place the jaws of the wrench on the high side of the foot and pry down/push in until the foot slides on.
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Old 06-07-2014, 09:51 AM   #21
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Along the same idea but slightly different lower the jack all the way. Go buy a package of wooden close pins. Take them apart and push the halves into the gap between the coils. when you retract the jack with a pry bar you can disconnect them easily. To put them in the new springs bend the spring to make a gap between the coils. Look at how the spring hooks have to face to connect to the mounts so the cloths pin halfs won't hit something as they retract.

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Old 06-10-2014, 08:32 AM   #22
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Al good ideas. Whatever works is good! My new springs are installed and are working just fine. The jack retracts about 4 times faster than before. I may do the others sometime.

Thanks again for all the ideas.


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