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Old 12-24-2015, 06:14 PM   #15
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If you have one bank of batteries very low and the relay contacts are poor, that is not completely shot, then eventually the voltage can equalize the batteries.

It is funny, if someone suggests changing a fuel filter, oil filter, air cleaner, or any other number of maintenance items they will rush out and do so. When it comes to these solenoids it is like twisting an arm to get someone to tear one apart or to replace one.
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Old 12-24-2015, 06:35 PM   #16
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YC1, I replaced it last March 2015 as I stated. I should also state that the 8 house batteries are dated 12/2013 and the two chassis batteries are dated 7/2013. It's all new stuff pretty much which causes me to think it's wiring on the Alpine side that's messed up. I know that the white and black leads (small ones) are attached to the correct studs.
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Old 12-25-2015, 04:36 AM   #17
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" I discovered that putting the Xantrex into bulk charge mode and pressing the battery boost switch on the dash causes the Trombetta to click but checking the terminals reveals that charging voltage does not pass through to the chassis. It will, however, pass charging voltage if you turn the large key switch between the batteries to combine them OR you fire up the generator."

The voltage that is turning on the Trombetta may be low under certain conditions. It is imperative to get a voltage reading on the two small terminals under each condition. Solenoids can go clunk during a first inrush of current and physically drop the contact mechanism back so it does not function. Measure both large connections under the same tests. Write them down because once you have done two or three things you will become unsure of your results. I like to take pictures, print them out, and write on them. Great for future repairs.
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Old 12-25-2015, 08:43 AM   #18
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IIRC the minimum pull down voltage for that relay is 7v. I think it would be interesting to hook up two multimeters to the solenoid so you can see the voltage AND current on the coil and then use the other meter to see if the solenoid is switching. IIRC when I was having this problem it was when my chassis batteries were low.
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Old 02-03-2016, 09:51 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfe10 View Post
If you want a "bomb-proof" solenoid/relay: https://www.bluesea.com/products/901...12_24V_DC_250A

Rate for 1 MILLION cycles, 450 amps continuous.

Enough said.

Have used them on sail boats and RV's.
Wolfe10, did you mount the switch in the battery bay? Do you leave the switch in the "on" position continuously or do you have a schedule you use to flip the switch?
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Old 02-03-2016, 10:00 AM   #20
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Wolfe10, did you mount the switch in the battery bay? Do you leave the switch in the "on" position continuously or do you have a schedule you use to flip the switch?
I have not used that solenoid for that purpose. Have used several for replacing problematic ignition solenoids (dash area).

BlueSea could tell you whether it is water proof/acid proof or only water/acid resistant.
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Old 02-03-2016, 10:09 AM   #21
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Looks like Blue Sea Systems is up in Bellingham, WA. It might be worth a trip up there this summer when we're home.
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Old 02-03-2016, 10:15 PM   #22
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An 8 or 10 guage jumper cable from a +12 volt terminal of the house battery bank to the + terminal of an engine start battery will get you going if you in trouble as well as providing a charge to the set of batteries in trouble as described in this case.
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:53 AM   #23
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Put your voltmeter from ground to one of the small terminals. Have someone push the aux start button. Find which one has 12.5 volts or more. The other should be 0.

You should hear an audible clunk. Let go of the switch. If you are connected to shoreline then turn on your headlights, AC fan, but do not start the engine. The goal is to get the two banks of batteries at a bit of different voltage state. Now, ten minutes later, measure the voltage on the large terminals of the solenoid.

Chassis side is probably lower. Now have someone push the aux start button or just use an alligator clip and apply voltage via one of the large posts to the small terminal that had voltage on it before. You should hear it clunk.

Now measure both large posts from ground. IF they are not exactly the same voltage the relay is bad. It does not matter if it is a day old or ten years old. New solenoids can be bad.

If you have the same voltage, then we can move on to the other problem.
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Old 02-04-2016, 01:39 PM   #24
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This item looks promising. Check out the video.


https://www.bluesea.com/products/762..._-_12V_DC_500A
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:07 PM   #25
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At $270, it had better be very promising---think you are chasing symptoms rather than root causes. The solenoid in question is a dumb switch--it simply reacts to the signals sent by the charging logic or "brains" in the Vansco module, as indicated by light #19. Something about your charging configuration is causing the solenoid to switch rapidly [clicking]....solar cells, genset, something.....
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Old 02-05-2016, 08:59 AM   #26
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I'm wondering if the Vansco is sending the proper trigger voltage to the Trombetta. Also wondering if it can be measured somehow. We only experienced the clicking at the DRR in Quartzsite while dry camping. Hoping to find a tech who is savvy enough to figure this out.
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Old 02-05-2016, 12:33 PM   #27
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How many solar panels do you have? I was at DRR looking for you but each time I went by your coach you where out. If you have solar, the reason it was clicking while dry camping was you ran your generator to charge your batteries and then turned it off. The voltage in the house batteries was near 13.0 but then started to drop as you sat there. The solar panels would start to charge and get it back to 13.0 an trigger the solenoid to pass current to the chassis batteries. But as soon as that happen the solar panels could not maintain enough current to charge the chassis batts and the voltage would drop to below 13.0 and click off. This cycle would continue clicking back and forth, while you use the house batteries enough to get to a lower voltage that the solar could not get back to 13.0. The other way to stop the clicking cycle is to turn off the master switch to the chassis batteries (temporary solution only).
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Old 02-05-2016, 12:35 PM   #28
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You can send me a PM with you phone number and I can call you.
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