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Old 05-20-2012, 05:50 PM   #1
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Black Tank Valve Replacement

Any secrets or suggestions on replacing the black tank blade valve? OK, besides having the tank empty when I pull it apart.:-)
If you have done it, I welcome your advice.
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Old 05-20-2012, 05:52 PM   #2
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To my knowledge, There is no way to empty the tank except to open the blade valve.
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:42 PM   #3
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I did mine a few months ago. I chose to replace both Black and Grey tank valves as they were attached with a "Y" connector. It is pretty easy. Have some paper towels handy and be sure to drain the tanks and let them drain for a day if possible. Rocking the vehicle can cause more liquid to flow, so you can drive up on some wood blocks or use the jacks to raise the side of the MH. Then put on the gloves and remove the valve. I used a silicone grease to lube the new valve flange seal. The important thing is to get the valve positioned squarely so that it seals correctly. I got things lined up and then rotated the valve up and down to ensure a square seal. I used a bleach solution to sanitize things before and after the job. I hope this helps..
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:52 PM   #4
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You can just replace the seals rather than the entire valve.
Back flush the tank several times before starting. sanitize with some bleach too
use gloves that fit very well
Home Depot has Plumber's Grease to lube the seals.
If cable operated valve lube the cable too
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:56 PM   #5
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I did mine a few months ago. I chose to replace both Black and Grey tank valves as they were attached with a "Y" connector. It is pretty easy. Have some paper towels handy and be sure to drain the tanks and let them drain for a day if possible. Rocking the vehicle can cause more liquid to flow, so you can drive up on some wood blocks or use the jacks to raise the side of the MH. Then put on the gloves and remove the valve. I used a silicone grease to lube the new valve flange seal. The important thing is to get the valve positioned squarely so that it seals correctly. I got things lined up and then rotated the valve up and down to ensure a square seal. I used a bleach solution to sanitize things before and after the job. I hope this helps..
Yep, what Chuck said. IMO, the valves are cheap enough to just replace both black and grey while you're in there. Be sure to lube the new ones. The job sounds harder than it is.

Good luck.

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Old 05-20-2012, 07:20 PM   #6
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You can put off changing out the valve for a while by adding another valve between the sewer connection and the sewer hose. CW sells one made by Valterra as I recall. I've been using one now for about 6 months and no problems and I don't see why it wouldn't last the life of the trailer.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:46 PM   #7
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Thanks, I figured after I got the tank rinsed well, I would tilt the coach so anything left in the tank would go over to the other side. I just wondered if I would break any fittings trying to maneuver the valve out.
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:01 PM   #8
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Done, two new valves $21.00, no drips, no runs, no leaks. Priceless!!!

I leaned the coach over to the drivers side, drained tanks, and then leaned it over to the passenger side. Made it a very clean R&R.
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:39 PM   #9
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I would drive the coach up on some ramps to tilt that side of the coach away from the valve area, so you don't have residual water hampering your progress, changing the valve is streight forward I would think.
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:47 PM   #10
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Done, two new valves $21.00, no drips, no runs, no leaks. Priceless!!!

I leaned the coach over to the drivers side, drained tanks, and then leaned it over to the passenger side. Made it a very clean R&R.
Well done! Did both of mine recently, much easier to operate plus NO leaks!!!
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:39 PM   #11
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My 07 has electric valves by Drainmaster because they are on the passenger side. I had two very nasty occurences once when a valve refused to open (grey) and once when the black valve refused to close. There is a manual over-ride but the shaft is aluminum and both the slot on one side and the hex on the other soon failed. Very messy. I called Drainmaster and they said that it was WR's fault for mountng the valves horizontally. THey also said their new valves had stainless steel shafts that could be operated manually. I cleaned out the valves and rotated them to vertical and they seem to work fine but I plan to replace them anyway. In thinking about how the crud gets into the slots and jams the valves, I came up with a new draining/flushing technique. I used to drain the black first and then close the valve. This could leave crud in the valve which then jams. Now I drain the black and with the black open I hold the hose up above the tank level and open the grey. This allows the grey water to flow into the black tank and flushes it with soapy water. Then I lower the hose and both tanks drain clean. I intend to put a manual valve in the combined pipe both for backup and to facilitate the flushing without having to hold the hose up.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:59 PM   #12
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My 07 has electric valves by Drainmaster because they are on the passenger side. I had two very nasty occurences once when a valve refused to open (grey) and once when the black valve refused to close. There is a manual over-ride but the shaft is aluminum and both the slot on one side and the hex on the other soon failed. Very messy. I called Drainmaster and they said that it was WR's fault for mountng the valves horizontally. THey also said their new valves had stainless steel shafts that could be operated manually. I cleaned out the valves and rotated them to vertical and they seem to work fine but I plan to replace them anyway. In thinking about how the crud gets into the slots and jams the valves, I came up with a new draining/flushing technique. I used to drain the black first and then close the valve. This could leave crud in the valve which then jams. Now I drain the black and with the black open I hold the hose up above the tank level and open the grey. This allows the grey water to flow into the black tank and flushes it with soapy water. Then I lower the hose and both tanks drain clean. I intend to put a manual valve in the combined pipe both for backup and to facilitate the flushing without having to hold the hose up.
Guess I'm glad we have the manual blade valves. They're mounted horizontally and are now 10 years old with no problems. I do use a sewer treatment with coconut oil in it which seems to keep the seals lubed enough.
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:12 PM   #13
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All w/drain master system - There are connectors which provide signal and power to each valve (gray and black) they look like the connector used in older PC's for hard drives. You can disconnect those connectors, put a little Vaseline in each one and then put them back together; you should not have issues with them again or at least for a year. Because they are in a compartment which can get high moisture in it, the connectors are tinned copper, and subject to corrosion. Putting the Vaseline on them, makes them more waterproof than they were and when taken apart, scores the connector and breaks up the corrosion. I had this trouble as well. And once in a while it happens again even though I have treated them. Knowing how to remove them and what to do to fix the problem for a year or so is handy. I freaked out for a second when it happened the first time, and knowing the poor wiring quality control WRV used, I figured it was this connector. I could rewire them with a more waterproof higher quality connection, but heck who wants to work when you can play. The valve body should have an angle of up to 45 degrees on them (however previous post make it seem they should be vertical-up/down)(and crud can get into them no matter what angle they are at, it happens in manual valves as well), mine have an angle but not near that high. Yes you can take a screwdriver and manually turn then, but I want things to work correctly.

The correct way to drain your tanks is to let the black tank be as full as possible within 5 gallons of top, and about a day or two before we reach that level, we close the gray tank and do some laundry or wash dishes by hand for a couple of days (assuming in park with hookups), to get some water into it, about half full will work, but almost full is better. Once both are full, I do as recommended, and dump the black tank first, letting it drain for 5 minutes after it sounds like it’s done. Then I use my tank flush system to flush the black tank for 5 minutes which should rinse it out and wash any crud out of the valve body. I close the valve, and then do the same for the gray tank, dumping it out, and then flushing it for 5 minutes. If hookups then I leave the gray tank open, if dry camping, I close it and go back to having fun. I always flush the black tank; I don’t necessarily flush the gray tank every time. It’s nice to know new valves are available, and that might be something I order and replace once I know our coach is back to normal. I have had to change the drain hose once, because the sewer opening end broke and would not seal. For the most part I like the drain master system. Have seen other RV’s which have the most convoluted setup to drain and flush you could ever see, ours is easier than a lot of them. A macerator seems like a lot of extra work to me, but then I have been doing it this way for a long time.

FWIW - There is a process to reprogram the remote if it battery goes dead. It's in the owner’s manual, and not complicated. I had to replace the battery and reprogram mine back in the fall. It took about 15 minutes.
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