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Old 08-22-2015, 12:46 PM   #1
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Black Windshield Sealant/Adhesive

2003 Alpine 38 FDDS.

Would like to know what OE black sealant/adhesive was used to bed the windshields.

Thanks.
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Old 08-22-2015, 01:34 PM   #2
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I believed WRV used an Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive which is a standard adhesive used by all auto glass installers.
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:00 AM   #3
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Definition of instantaneous--the amount of time it takes for windshield adhesive to get all over you once you pull the trigger-----good luck.
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:03 PM   #4
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Reseal windshield
Since I could not find any information on resealing the windshield, I thought I would post on the subject. My windshield sealant had a couple of small leaks on the top corners on each side. The rest of it was sunk in about a 1/4 of an inch. After extensive searching, I found out that this was the product originally used (AP Products 017-90893 Black Sikaflex 221 Sealant) available from Amazon. I ordered 3 tubes (1 was plenty). Here is the procedure that I used, it turned out perfect.

1. Use 2" wide blue painters tape and tape both sides of the existing seam. You can apply a double wide run if you are worried about getting some on your coach. Make sure you tape right up to the edge of the existing gap, but not into it.

2. Clean the existing sealant with a clean shop towel and acetone. Do not use paint thinner as it leaves a film or residue. Let dry.

3. Apply a bead of new sealant right over the old, applying approx. 20% more than actually needed to fill the gap.

4. With a clean putty knife, apply force down on the sealant, running in the direction of the seam. This will give you a fairly smooth seam top, with the residual pushed over to both sides. If there is a lot of residual, and you think it is going to get in the way, remove it with the putty knife. Let this set up for about 15 Minutes. I did this in 95 degree heat, so adjust accordingly. You want it to still be pliable.

5. Rip off a square sheet of household plastic wrap. Point at it, and wrap it smoothly around your forefinger and hand. You want the fingerprint of your fore finger to be as smooth as possible. Run your finger SIDEWAYS over the top of the bead in the direction of the seam. If you don't use your finger sideways, you will dig out some of the sealant in the wider gap areas.

6. Let this dry another 15 minutes or so, then pull off tape at a sharp right angle, not straight out. This helps keep the sealant edges to retain a clean edge.

7. If you got any sealant on your coach, remove it with acetone and a rag, being careful not to touch your new seam.

I forgot to mention a few things. Clean coach surface before you apply tape.
Wear disposable rubber gloves after you tape. Clean your tools with acetone before this stuff sets up.

Have everything you need ready, you don't want to be searching for the plastic wrap when this stuff is setting up.

You only have one shot at this. If you are not happy with your job, and it dries, you are stuck with it.

Good Luck,

Frank
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Old 08-23-2015, 07:03 PM   #5
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Thanks, Frank.

I am very familiar with Sikaflex.

Will do that when we get home.

Brett
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Old 04-22-2017, 06:52 AM   #6
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UPDATE:
Although Sikaflex 221 does a decent job of resealing the windshield, I did discover some problems with it. Every time I wash the coach, the sikaflex bleeds off black residue on my front cap. Being that I have a white coach, it is very noticeable, so I remove it with a hand held spray cleaner wax. Over time, the sikaflex also tends to shrink. This has caused my initial resealed areas to begin to leak again. After doing a google search, I found this product
"3M 08693 Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive Cartridge - 10.5 fl. oz.". Amazon carries it for about $16.00. I cut out my old repair and resealed. Beautiful finish and much easier to work with. I don't know why this product did not come up in my original search of 2 years ago, but it did now. The only hassle is that a standard calking gun will not work to apply. I went to the hardware store, and the required commercial grade gun for this tube was priced at $104.00. "Ouch". I said no thanks and kept looking. I found a high end standard calking gun made by "newborn" that has a slightly smaller push plate that fit the narrower 3m tube perfectly, $25.00. All indications so far are that this is a much better product, since it is actually formulated for windshields.
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:23 PM   #7
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Frank, how did you dig out the old sealant around the windshield? How difficult was it to dig the sealant out?
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Old 04-25-2017, 10:20 PM   #8
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I used a sheetrock knife to cut a v channel into the existing. The new tube says that it is ok to leave some of the old residual in place as long as it is well cleaned. I used acitone. They also sell a one step primer on Amazon that comes up when you do a search, but I did not use it. The new product seemed to bond well.
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