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Old 05-11-2007, 05:09 AM   #1
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I decided to bite the bullet and replace the fuel vent hose in the hopes of increasing fuel flow when refueling. To work on the fuel tank, accessable in the generator space, the generator slide must be extended. I needed to raise the front of the coach with the jacks to allow my large frame to get in there. This requires blocking the frame to keep the coach from falling should the jacks not hold. The only available place I could find were the generator rails. For those of you that have been under there, is this an acceptable place for blocking?
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Old 05-11-2007, 05:09 AM   #2
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I decided to bite the bullet and replace the fuel vent hose in the hopes of increasing fuel flow when refueling. To work on the fuel tank, accessable in the generator space, the generator slide must be extended. I needed to raise the front of the coach with the jacks to allow my large frame to get in there. This requires blocking the frame to keep the coach from falling should the jacks not hold. The only available place I could find were the generator rails. For those of you that have been under there, is this an acceptable place for blocking?
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Old 05-11-2007, 08:33 AM   #3
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I'd block the axle. That's where a tow truck would pick up the front end for towing, and what holds everything up while driving. And before jacking, I'd let the air outa the airbags so the coach settles on its frame.
Make sure your jack stands are heavy duty enough (I'd go w/5 ton stands since the quality of these gizzies is suspect) and that they have a good solid footing, i.e. won't sink into the ground while you are under the coach (I love my Alpine but that kind of togetherness might be too much )
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Old 05-11-2007, 11:02 AM   #4
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Thanks, Mike. I originally had blocked the axle but realized the jacks lifted the frame with the axles following. It is a lot easier (and requires less cribbing) to block the axle, if that is the way to do it.
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Old 05-11-2007, 04:18 PM   #5
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I have always blocked the frame when using the jacks to raise the coach. I don't remember exactly where I positioned the jacks as I am in between coaches. My concern was when the coach is up on the jacks the axle drops down and the air is released from the bags. If the jacks let it down, the coach would lower to the point where the bags were flat. (no air.) More of a drop than I want while I am under there.

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Old 05-12-2007, 09:46 AM   #6
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Gary - Was just going to respond as Dale did. One exception, if you use coach jacks, I would follow up with jacks on the axle to prevent what Dale is describing. The jacks on the axle can be light weight jacks since they are really only lifting the axle and not the coach. Then if there is a coach jack failure, there will be no drop between the frame and axle since the axle is jacked up to the frame and then blocked.
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:03 AM   #7
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I carry a 12 ton bottle jack for odd chores like this. Since almost all these jacks are manufactured in 3.5 world countries these days (even the Craftsman brand unit I carry), I like to keep a large safety factor on bottle jack capacity. Friend of mine was under a mobile home jacking it into place when he blew up first one, then a second cheapo bottle jack rated @ 20 tons. I guess it was disconcerting when the jacks blew & the house "settled" abtuptly.

Speaking of which, I bought a One-ton 12V "Roadmaster" electric toad jack. Slickest jack device I've seen in a long time. Plugs into the lighter and a 12V gear motor runs a scissors jack. Ran the Acura up/down easily. Yesterday the Toyota PU had a flat so I positioned Roadmaster under the FR a-arm; ran up about half the total jacking height then suddenly BANG!! The jack broke at its feet and at the plate holding the gearbox (I think one broke & the other collapsed as a result of the sudden new geometry). I see it is made in China. Maybe one Chinese ton is less than a ton on this side of the Pacific? Anyway, it is a good reminder that jacks are for lifting and jack stands or blocks are for safety.
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Old 05-14-2007, 03:15 AM   #8
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All,
Not anything of value regarding the root topic of blocking the frame but a question not intended to hijack the thread:

While fueling, is it not possible to remove both fill caps and fuel through only one inlet?
If so, would that not vent the tank well enough to forgo modifications to the vent line(s)?

Can you tell I'm a new owner of an Alpine?
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:51 AM   #9
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That's how I fuel. Tank fills very quickly.
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Old 05-14-2007, 07:08 AM   #10
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Thanks for the reply.
Your answer is as I expected.
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Old 05-14-2007, 10:17 AM   #11
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Something just occurred to me about fueling...do all Alpines have 2 fuel inlets, or is it just the mid-doors like mine?
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Old 05-14-2007, 11:35 AM   #12
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Just the mid-doors, as far as I know.
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Old 05-14-2007, 12:20 PM   #13
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I would truly love to have a (or 2) side fuel fill. Unfortunately, the front door models have only 1 - located INSIDE the generator slide compartment. This location requires a 5-6' nearly horizontal fuel fill run. Last time I refueled, it took 30 minutes for 28 gallons. Having had enough with the slow fill, I crawled under and inspected the 5/8" vent hose which parallels the fuel fill pipe. While it wasn't kinked, the zip ties had squeezed the rubber vent somewhat. Hopefully there will be an improvement in fill time when I refuel.
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Old 05-14-2007, 01:16 PM   #14
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I never remove the second cap on the other side, and I have always been able to run the fuel at the max rate the Flying J truck pumps will put out. I put in about 60 gallons in 5 minutes or so. Thirty minutes for 28 gallons is a problem somewhere. (I know, tell you something you don't know! ) And probably not just a somewhat squeezed rubber vent.

Personally, I like the fuel filler inside the front slide compartment instead of the side of the coach.
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