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Old 02-06-2010, 04:04 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Refuse1 View Post
E Mike,

In an earlier post (9-12-09) you stated that the brakes can be bled with the wheels on. That is contrary to other posts I have seen that state that the wheels must come off to get to the outside caliper. which is it...
refuse1, I don't want to steal any thunder that EM has made here however I'd like to take a crack at answering this question. EM answers questions in the Workhorse Forum and I thought I would return the favor.

In my experience all the calipers can be bled and the brake fluid flushed with the wheels on. A short piece of 1/4" ID hose is required, a 7/16" wrench and a 2L pop bottle. The hose is fit over the nipple on the bleeder and the bleeder is loosened counter clockwise. Place the tube into an empty container. Have a person pump the brakes. Fluid can be observed exiting the hose and when clear the operation is complete.

For folks with larger than average diameters, the jacks may be lowered offering a bit more clearance to help move things along. Be safe all the time and don't get pinched.

When manpower is a challenge, Oemy has Speed Bleeders which allows this to be a 1 man operation.
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Old 02-06-2010, 04:31 PM   #16
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Refuse- many DIY'ers bleed the Bosch calipers w/the wheels on, tho some may like to take the wheels off for inspection of the whole system (I don't know anybody who likes to take the wheels off for any other reason). If all you are doing is bleeding or brake fluid change, I'm sure wheels on is the preferred method.

The Meritor calipers on later coaches present a difficult access issue to get to the inner bleed screw (Meritors have two bleed screws per caliper, 8 total @ 4 wheels x 2 per wheel), and are much easier to bleed properly w/wheels off, perhaps even considering the complication of wheel removal.
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Old 02-06-2010, 05:46 PM   #17
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Thanks DriVer & E Mike.....

I wont have a chance to be in the same place as the coach is until spring, but I know that a good bleeding is on the top of my to-do list. I have the Meritor calipers and was thinking that there would not be space to get a wrench up between the wheel and the caliper.

Sounds like you guys have done it so appreciate the advise !
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Old 05-27-2010, 02:16 AM   #18
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I have a 1999 40' Alpine Coach. I have had and am having the brake problem discussed here. We are (were really, we spend 6 months out of the country now) full timers. Within a few weeks or few months of buying the coach (it being over 10 years ago you can understand my not perfect memory) we had sticking calipers after passing through San Francisco. Repairs done in Oakland. Problem quickly returned. We were driving the motorhome frequently in those days. Then came the voluntary recall and we had (supposedly) 4 new calipers installed in Tucson (2004?). We have driven the coach so little since then but on a trip from Port Townsend to Auburn a couple years back we had a hot brake assembly. Last year shortly after returning home we headed for Eastern Washington and at Skokomish we smelled the brakes and of course when we stopped the front right and left rear wheels were smokin'. Spent a lot of money in Sumner for a couple of ABS sensors and some worthless advice. I pulled the fuse on the ABS thinking the problem may be caused by malfunctiong ABS. We had no further brake problems on that trip of 17 days and many humdreds of miles. Obviously the ABS disconnect was not the problem since last week after getting the MH out of storage we drove 15 miles and the front right was hot. It has always been the right front (and sometimes the left rear. My memory being what it is does not recall other wheels getting smoking hot. Last night I replaced the brake fluid in the system (bled all 4 wheels until new clear dot 3 fluid was coming out) and hope this will fix the problem. Since finding this forum last week I have learned a lot about the problem. WRV always said it was sticky slide pins. Anyway, I read a post where someone highly recommended a repair shop in Tacoma but I can't find the post (and - you got it - I CAN'T REMEMBER the name of the place or the location). If someone knows the post and service facility I'm talking about please let me know. I'm heading that way tomorrow (later today now it's just past midnight, Thurs, May 27). Thanks.
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Old 05-27-2010, 08:24 PM   #19
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Catchusifu,
I had the sticking breaks issue and had Walts Muffler and Break in Fife repair it. They have easy access to break parts. Since that time I've discovered/used Brazel's RV Preformance Center in Centralia. They are a little on the spendy side but really seem to know what they are doing.
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Old 05-27-2010, 09:33 PM   #20
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Good Service in Renton, Wash.

Catchusifu
I also have a 1999 mid door Alpine Coach, with the 2.88 dia. (2) piston Bendix calipers. These Bendix wedge calipers have an over-all clearance of .060. So if that is equal .030 on each side (thus like your car requiring greasing to keep the areas sliding). The NW Cummings in Renton, WA. are now doing everything except the hotel items. A new service, mgr (Joe Lord) from down South has relocated up here to head up the RV department. They also have the WABCO ABS tech interfacing electronics for fault codes.
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Old 06-02-2010, 08:49 AM   #21
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Hoping I can get a little clarity on this brake thing, I've got an 01 36mds with two piston calipers. The rear rotors are cracked and need replaced. What do I ask for when talking to the parts people, do I ask for workhorse parts or bosch parts?
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Old 06-02-2010, 09:13 AM   #22
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What do I ask for when talking to the parts people, do I ask for workhorse parts or Bosch parts?
Greg from Pittsburgh, Western RV (WRV) has always built on Peak Chassis to the best of my knowledge and were totally independent and unaffiliated with Workhorse.

Go under your rig and write down the casting number of the caliper, you can't miss it. You can buy the calipers from International and other vendors if they are Bosch 66mm Calipers.
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:10 AM   #23
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Ok, after many phone calls in and around the Pittsburgh area it seems that nobody has a clue where to get replacement rotors for this MH....anyone have any ideas?
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Old 06-02-2010, 05:34 PM   #24
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Hello Greg:

You can try Fleet Pride Parts, http://www.fleetpride.com/fp_p/index.html they are a national truck parts house can provide you with the brake parts you are looking for.
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Old 06-02-2010, 08:27 PM   #25
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The calipers on Alpines are not the same 66mm piston calipers as on the Workhorse chassis, tho they have had similar problems in the past and share familial DNA.
2.88" x (25.4mm/inch) = 73mm
7 silly millimeters, but a different brake.
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Old 06-02-2010, 08:35 PM   #26
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EngineerMike is correct Workhorse does not use 73mm Calipers BUT "Ford" does.

Here's the disk brake manual by the way in case you need it.

Bosch Pin Slide Disk Brake Manual
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:24 AM   #27
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Did Bosch ever release the new calipers?
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:48 AM   #28
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Did Bosch ever release the new calipers?
MFortie, Not yet, stay tuned!
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