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Old 04-17-2012, 09:00 PM   #43
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EngineerMike
The way it was stated, I believe they are the applicable distributor for this product. Bosch's phone number is 800-521-5462. Doug at Jarvis said that Bosch told them that they would be receiving the new product in two weeks. He expected it sooner.
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:43 PM   #44
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I'll add the above to my growing miscellaneous service notes.
Thanks again, Mike
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:27 PM   #45
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Alpine Coach sticking Bosch calipers

Any more news on the "redesigned piston" calipers?
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:05 PM   #46
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Bosch "redesigned" calipers

Okay, there have been no posts here since my last post in July. I have been told by my significant other that she is going NOWHERE in our 1999 40' Alpine Coach until I get the brakes fixed. Changing fluid didn't fix the problem for very long. So I better get some new calipers on this coach that don't stick and produce rotors the color of which is usually reserved for race cars racing at night at Daytona. Has anyone purchased the new calipers? Any issues reported with the new calipers? Is there any remedy from Bosch for a motorhome whose parent is dead (Western RV that is)? And finally, my brake problem ONLY occurs with the right front and left rear. Anyone have an explanation for such a phenomenon? Thanks, David
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:48 PM   #47
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I believe the Alpine like most modern vehicles has a dual master cylinder with one half operating the left front/right rear and the other half operates the right front/left rear. Thus in the event of a hydraulic hose failure you only lose half of your brakes not all of them. Since your problem seems to be with one half of the system it may not be a caliper problem but maybe a master cylinder issue. Can't answer the question about the new calipers as I changed mine 2 years ago. Mine were the rail slide calipers not the pin slide variety. That was just a precaution as I never had a sticky caliper issue.
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:30 PM   #48
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1999 brakes on ours are Bendix

Some time ago I replaced my calipers with like kind Bendix. It is my belief that once you have new casting and the pours are greased it provides long term solution to keeping them from sticking due to rust. Bendix has stated their wedge calipers wil be greased due to the .070 clearance.
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:01 AM   #49
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Yes, there does seem to be something going on that is not moisture swollen piston related though changing the brake fluid did appear to correct the problem immediately after the new fluid was in the system. I pulled the ABS fuse thinking that system could be the cause. It wasn't. Seemed to have been the solution for a while but it did not permanently prevent smoking brakes. Any thoughts on how a master cylinder could malfunction to produce 2 super heated brakes? Thanks, David
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:51 AM   #50
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My guess would be that the master cylinder is sticking when you release the pedal thus preventing the brake fluid from returning to the reservoir. May be just enough tolerance difference in the dual piston to allow fluid to return on one half but not the other. If there is a big enough difference between the 2 sides it may activate your differential pressure switch and your "brake" light will come on on your dashboard. Has this light ever come on after braking?
You may need to find a brake specialist who can put pressure gauges on the system to check if this is really the problem. Or since your system is getting on in life you may just want to replace it.

Read this for more info on how the master cylinder works: http://alpinecoachassociation.com/ch...r%20Manual.pdf
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:59 PM   #51
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Thanks Algoma. I'll give it a shot. This problem has been occurring since we got the coach early 2000. Nothing else has fixed it so ... where to find a brake specialist on the Olympic Peninsula or the Seattle/Tacoma area? Anyone with a suggestion?
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:28 PM   #52
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I've had brake work done at the Walt's in Fife, they service a lot of MHs and do some fleet svs as well (IIRC). Also Brazil's, which is an irv2 sponser and is located between Rochester and Centralia. Brazil's is a certified workhorse repair facility so they should be familiar with all the in's and out's with ourstyle brakes. Hope some of this helps.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:23 PM   #53
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Catch- there was a case of an 03 (IIRC on the model year) that had a self-depressing brake pedal. Upon firing up the engine the operator could see the pedal depress about 1/2" and that was dragging the brakes. Culprit was an out of spec hydraulic pump. If you think this is going on, your could do what I did- have your pressure checked coming out of the steering gear (which is just before the HydroMax). Yours should flow 4gpm unrestricted (no brakes or steering pressure), and should hit 1,000psi w/brake pedal to the metal. Might as well have the relief checked at the same time- they have a gate valve on the flow meter apparatus & when shut it should show ~2200psi.
If your flow is high you could be getting pre-load on the brakes as the HMax will start to apply the brakes; if there is a pressure relief restriction backing up the flow it will have the same effect as stepping on the pedal & will apply the brakes. Had mine tested at the local shop of Berendsen Fluid Power in West Sacrament, CA. You can get yours tested at any good hydraulics shop using above specs. Cost me a min. 1 hr shop charge of $90.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:19 AM   #54
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Bosch ZOH T slide pin calipers

Re: original post dated way back when. Since the stuck caliper on the trip from Eagle Nest to Taos, I flushed the fluid. I got some black stuff that looked partially dissolved grease out of one of the calipers. Maybe got there when the calipers were replaced. Have no problems, yet. (fingers and toes crossed) Flush the fluid every two years. The rotors have thermal cracks which do not extend beyond the path of the pads. Bosch literature that Engineer Mike refered states not a problem but further reading suggests turning the rotors. Dont know as that would accomplish anything unless the rotors were not true or glazed or to remove stuck pad material. Don't know which one of the two theorys of maint to follow. One: if it ain't broke don't fix it. Two: Anticapate a "it may be problem" and spend a lot of time and recource to fix something that may not be a problem.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:32 AM   #55
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Hope all goes well wow eagles nest I have property leaving there on the left in el valley escatio on the way to Taos
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Old 08-04-2015, 04:40 PM   #56
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OK! Finally must get the brakes done on my 1999 40' Alpine Coach. I have avoided it as long as possible. It is only driven 15 miles twice each year. This last 15 mile trip out of storage to summer spot resulted in VERY hot brakes. In researching this issue (for the third time) I found 2 other instances where the offending brakes were the right front and left rear. I addressed this issue in an earlier post to this thread not knowing that others had the same experience. Any further thoughts on why Alpine Coaches would experience this problem this way? Any one else with the right front/left rear caliper sticking/brake overheating phenomenon? Is Doug Jarvis/Driveline the only supplier of the redesigned Bosch ZOH-T 73 mm calipers? That's the only source I can find for genuine Bosch replacements. I see Mill Supply and an ebay seller have aftermarket calipers. Anyone use these?
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