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Old 02-22-2014, 08:48 PM   #15
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Being 'easy on the brakes' might be the cause of the glazing and the squealing. On our school bus fleet, the repeated application of the brakes lightly caused glazing. Taking an empty bus out on an empty road and a couple of 'hard stops' would often quiet them right down. If you're pulling the rotors to have them turned, might as well have the calipers checked for free movement of the pistons too. A change of brake fluid is also a good idea.


Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:53 PM   #16
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Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
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The absolute worst thing you can do is to overheat brakes of any sort. I'll mention some of this but if you don't believe just look up "Burnishing break linings."

Hard braking before the linings are properly bedded-in (burnished) will glaze the lining and ruin them. All brakes squeak. You will hear the squeaking when something allows the frequency to change into the audible level for humans. Many things can cause the squeaking to be heard: glazing, loose calipers, missing clips, hard spots on the rotors/drums etc.

Locking up TT wheels to determine if the breaks are working is not a great idea. Somebody at some point in time decided that was a good way and as many other wrong ideas it got passed down from guy to guy until it is believed to be a good idea. Just explain why it is and I'll drop it.

If the drums and shoes are good, the shoes are adjusted correctly and your magnetics are activating then your breaks will work. You could also from a 10-15 MPH roll apply your TT breaks and see how long it takes you to stop.


TeJay (Tim) Auto Instructor 35 yrs (4-yrs USAF) Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/ CHF/5-Star/Koni/Centramatics * Bella- Golden/Cocker mix & Louie-The cat / All Retired
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