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Old 02-14-2010, 10:48 AM   #15
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Old Scout,

I have not had a chance to try it yet, but E Mike says your can bleed the rears without removin the wheels ! Unfortunately my coach is tucked away till spring, but getting them bled is on my short list first chance I get. It is my understanding that you should be able to bleed the rears with the wheels on.
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Old 02-14-2010, 11:06 AM   #16
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Jeff, I am all ears, the outside bleed screw on the rears is in a really bad spot. Mine is even worse because of the centramatic balancers. The Bosch calipers maybe able to be bled wheels on but I don't see how on the Meritor calipers. I have not crawled under the rear to take a good look yet. The front was tough enough.
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:20 PM   #17
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Bosch- definitely possible w/out wheel removal, done all the time.
Meritor- I'll be interested in the setup used for that inner rear bleed screw, as I've abdicated to wheel removal myself. Gotta be a way w/enough reticulating extension elements of the right type to maintain control, and maybe w/a borescope to see what the heck you are breaking.

Wayne- you can limit the mess w/Speed Bleeders, that have a low pressure check valve to keep brake fluid from flowing by gravity. I have the part# some place & I'll post it when it bubbles to the top again.
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:40 PM   #18
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Emike, is the the product Home? just need to know the size I need.
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Old 02-16-2010, 12:00 AM   #19
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Wayne- the gizmo's are made by Speed Bleeders. I have the size on the card, but have to locate it in my collection of trash, er, um, I mean systematically organized rolling assemblage of motorhome accouterments.
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:19 AM   #20
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Emike, same site I went to, I have no idea why it shows HOME on my post for the link.
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Old 02-23-2010, 01:41 AM   #21
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Anyone see a problem with using a vacuum bleeder and pulling the fluid trough, rather than pushing it?

Thanks
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:35 AM   #22
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I dont see why not. I was a littkle disapointed at how slow the fluid came out with the power bleeder.
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Old 02-23-2010, 01:40 PM   #23
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Notwithstanding the problem of reaching the outside bleed screws on the newer 4-piston calipers, the vacuum method seemed to work well. The front screws [inside only] are easier to reach while the rear wheels work better with two people. Only issue for me was determining when fresh fluid had reached the vacuum pump. Even though the old fluid was VERY old, it was only slightly tinted compared to the new [clear] fluid. Part of the detection problem might have been due to some old fluid from the outside calipers continuing to mix in. To avoid pulling any wheels, I am thinking of doing an annual "flush" in hopes of diluting/refreshing the outside caliper reservoirs over time.
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Old 04-19-2010, 01:53 AM   #24
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I changed my fluid with a vacuum bleeder this weekend. Boy are my forearms sore from pumping the vacuum bleeder. I got so far with the bleeder then asked Patty to push on the brake pedal. Went much faster. I think I went through 5 quarts plus. The fluid looked good for 10 years and 63K. I will do it more often now!!

Now a question, does the service brake idiot light stay on until the engine starts? I don't remember seeing it before, but of course I'm looking for trouble since I did the work myself.
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Old 04-19-2010, 08:43 AM   #25
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My Brake failure light stays on until I start the engine.
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:05 AM   #26
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Thanks Wayne. Sometimes a little reassurance is good
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:24 AM   #27
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Talking

Tom with all the exercise on the forearms you should now look like Popeye, just do not forget to eat your spinach.
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:10 PM   #28
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Tom- get a remote starter switch and some long leads to run the aux pump on the HydroMax. I believe that will push fluid for you. Haven't tried it myself, but hear rumors of others using that method.
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