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Old 12-28-2014, 11:15 AM   #15
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Yup--on the two caps and the divider--one cap will fill the whole reservoir...

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2003 40' MDTS
Garden Ridge, Texas
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Old 12-28-2014, 11:29 AM   #16
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Besides the master cylinder and the calipers that could leak might be the flexible brake hoses to each wheel that could possibly leak. In my opinion the front hoses laid directly on top of the king pin was not a good design. Every time the wheels are turned it slightly rubs on the hoses. There is no protection for the hose. Both with age and wear it could be possible to have a leak on any of the flexible hoses going to the wheels. There are two steel lines from the master cylinder down inside of drivers frame for the rear wheels. On the front the steel lines run from the MC to each side of the frame.

I replaced all 4 of my flexible hoses with Teflon brake hoses I think like that use on race cars. They no longer rub on top of the king pins. The front ones need to be long enough for the tight turning radius on Alpine coaches. I put on a bracket for additional support on the calipers.

There rear hoses are a little hard to get to replace. The fronts are fairly easy to replace.
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Old 12-28-2014, 01:21 PM   #17
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\In a no-brake emergency, pull the Park Brake paddle to the On position to apply parking brake. The drum brake around the drive shaft is air-off over mechanical-on and will stop you if you have enough distance. I believe this is a standard design on all DP rigs.

TJ- Old Scout's quote on MC part# is correct for the 1.75" MC, which should give 30% better brake application than the 2" MC which came standard.

I've never had a pure hydraulic brake failure. I've always been able to pump the brakes to get some percentage of braking.
MC's can fail fairly quickly if there is grit in the fluid allowed to push thru to the pressure gallery; the grit will abrade the neoprene cups that are the pressure seal, and allow fluid to push around the seal avoiding buildup of pressure. Usually pumping will make pressure, but a fix will be needed asap.

Run the gen slide out & check the mechanical linkage to make sure its making contact & pushing the plunger properly to actuate the MC. If you can find a shop that was an authorized Workhorse repair facility, they had this same brake setup on the heavier WH chassis, bell crank HydroMax ABS & all. Maybe post on the iRV2 WH forum for a recommendation for a local shop.

On the ACA Tech Library "Chassis & Brakes" pull-down, find the ABS Troubleshooting & Maintenance PDF file. On numbered page 10 you will find Blink Codes information. ABS diagnostic toggle switch is located next to the front engine diagnostic port on the dash firewall, lower right side behind the plastic panel that is velcroed in place. Follow the instructions for some DIY ABS feedback, if there is any stored. There is also a Bosch Truck & Bus Brake Diagnostic doc that should prove useful for you or your tech.
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Old 12-28-2014, 02:14 PM   #18
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I just looked at another thread on this Brakes Smoking , seems the problem started here?
2000 Newmar MADP 4060, 350ISC, Spartan MM, IFS 2011 Jeep JK, M&G Braking, 2014 MTI 27' Hog Hauler, Wireless brake control, 2006Ultra & 1989 Springer
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:29 AM   #19
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2005 Alpine Coach 36’FDDS
We have been setting at Carolina Coach & Bus Service from Christmas night until now 12/29 and these guys sure are good. Two ABS sensors were melted. The problem seems to be the post that connects the master cylinder to the brake pedal was binding and holding in the master cylinder a small amount – just enough to drag the brakes and over heat them. The mechanic is drilling a hole in the shaft and threading it and installing a grease fitting – which WRV should have done. There is no way to lubricate that vertical shaft. I had kept it sprayed with T-9 but it had no way of getting to where it needed to be – now I will be fill the shaft with grease to lubricate the top & bottom. After they replace the ABS sensors they are going to flush & bleed & fill with dot 4 the entire brake system because they suspect the fluid has boiled.
Once we get that done and a test drive I will post more. Everyone should be aware on the shaft problem
that is being corrected by adding a grease fitting. This might prevent someone else from having this problem. They also told me that anytime the ABS dash light goes on that the ABS sensors on the wheels should be pulled and checked. Two of mine were melted, indicating severe overheating. I’m praying this will solve the issue without having to replace & repair a lot more stuff. As I said, “These guys are GOOD”
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Old 12-29-2014, 11:00 AM   #20
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So the moral of the story is, When your brakes are smoking, don`t keep driving down the highway, until they fail?

Good luck with the repairs
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Old 12-29-2014, 03:41 PM   #21
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How have the break pads and rotors done with this? If they need replacement you are looking at a truly BIG sweaty wad of money.
'99 Alpine Coach
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Old 12-29-2014, 06:11 PM   #22
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I like many are totally confused as to why you are driving a coach that you previously reported as having a smoking rear brake that you did not get fixed. Of course this will boil your brake fluid and cause total loss of braking. ABS failure has no effect on braking so you can't blame that. I am speechless.
John and Mary Knight
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:09 AM   #23
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Total Brake Failure 1988 Cheiftain 22

Just bought this unit last month on craigslist for $2000.00, guy we bought it from delivered it 35miles to our house. Took 2 weeks to get it titled and registered as the title said 1998 Chevy with the correct vin, did a title search and got it straightened out. Guy that delivered it said he was going 70 on the Long Island Expressway .! My other half drove it about 10 miles , nervous as she hasn't driven anything but my Dodge workvan since she got rid of her class c years ago. She did fine, I was worried about all the crazy Christmas shoppers running around as we took it to get new tires put on. She drove it to my friends shop so I could really check it out and work on it, telling me she didn't think the brakes felt right? Well I tried to drive it up on blocks for easier access and hit the brakes giving it gas to get on the blocks, scared the hell out of me as the pedal hit the floor and it took off down the driveway into the street, ebakes were frozen , not that I would have thought to pull on the lever anyway , LOL! Thank God no one was coming down the street! Seems the seller or PO's mechanics did all new brakes front and rear, new rubber lines , changed the left rear steel line and bypassed the proportioning valve for the rear brakes, running like 30feet of steel line directly from the master to the rubber line in the back, in the process coiling the line in like 3 -1 foot coils over the rear end flopping around hitting the rear end! Well the right front steel line and the right rear steel line both blew out from rust at the same time! Scared the hell out of her when I told her as the main road she drove on after getting tires was packed going to the shop, she would have taken out a whole lot of cars an hour earlier! Well it wasn't fun but all new steel lines, e brake cables and flushing /bleeding later all is well! Now waitin for all new shocks and new steering stabilizers and maybe we can go to Florida for our first vacation in about 10 years, I hope! Checked out everything else it all works, hopefully all will go good on her Maiden Voyage, but i'll be bringing a well stocked tool box , just in case! So far about $3500 into it so far. Love this site , Bob
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:21 PM   #24
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Brake Failure Solved

2005 Alpine Coach, 36' FDDS
My brake failure has been fixed. I am on the road now but I will post what happened and how it was fixed later. I just can't do it now. It was not the master cylinder. The vertical post that connects the brake pedal to the master cylinder was frozen (due to no lubrication) thus causing the brakes to drag and burning up all the calipers and ABS sensors. The mechanic removed the post and drilled and tapped the hole and added a grease fitting. He filled the entire post with grease and it will never freeze up again because now I can grease it.
He could not believe that WRV had not provided a grease fitting for that very critical post that transferred all brake pedal pressure to the master cylinder.
$2,600.00 and 5 days later it's now fixed. I will post photos later.
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Old 01-06-2015, 07:08 PM   #25
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This has happened before. I did a search of the forum and came up with these:

Brake pedal stuck down solution

WH Brake Pedal Not Disingaging Completely

Brakes fading on Workhorse chassis

Brake Pedal

Lubing the brake pedal/linkage to master cylinder seems to be common in these threads.

Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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Old 01-06-2015, 07:17 PM   #26
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Yep! I hope a lot of folks read this and learn. It will save them a lot of time & money. Also, peace of mind that their brakes will work.
Every mechanic I talk to seems to believe that a 33,000 pound coach should have air brakes. These 70mm Meritor brake calipers are rated at 33,000 pounds.
That leaves NO margin for error.
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Old 01-08-2015, 05:00 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by tjshively View Post
Yep! I hope a lot of folks read this and learn. It will save them a lot of time & money. Also, peace of mind that their brakes will work.
Every mechanic I talk to seems to believe that a 33,000 pound coach should have air brakes. These 70mm Meritor brake calipers are rated at 33,000 pounds.
That leaves NO margin for error.
Thanks for giving us the results of how it all came out. Couple of posts along the way were little to critical but that what happens when you try to put up an interesting informative post.
As far as hydraulic brakes not being up to the job and air brakes being better, that is just like debating who makes best truck. With the proper sized hydraulic components, hydraulic brakes work just fine. Last I knew military trucks used hydraulic brakes and airliners also.
thanks again for seeing this thru!
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:19 PM   #28
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After reading this post, I decide I would remove the bell crank on my 2005 Alpine and check for any binding. I found no signs of rust or binding. Since I had it out I installed a grease fitting. Mine has a nylon bushing on the top and bottom of the bell crank. I got to wondering if maybe WRV left the bushings off of some units. Tjshively’s is not the 1st Alpine I have heard of that had a binding bell crank.

Wayne & Kathy
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