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Old 12-22-2014, 04:48 PM   #1
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Brakes Smoking

The drivers side rear brake is smoking. I crawled under and took some temperatures with my laser temp gun. The caliper was at 410 degs. I noticed that the inside of the rotor was not shinny. That makes me think the caliper is not pushing on the inside. If the caliper is working correctly both sides will be shinny -- correct? How do I check for a stuck caliper? Is there any way to un-stick a caliper? I had the fluid changed a year ago but after reading about fluid change - I don't think they did the job correctly. They never remove the rear tires. Any help I can get here would be appreciated.
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Old 12-22-2014, 04:58 PM   #2
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What year/what model?
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:04 PM   #3
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Bleeding brakes to change fluid doesn't require removing tires, it's done from the back of the caliper. If one side of the rotor is rusty, you probably have an issue that can only be corrected by removing the dual tires and then removing the caliper to see what's binding. If the rotor is bad, then it will need to be removed and turned if you have enough thickness to allow that. All these parts are very heavy and require 3/4 - 1" sockets and/or a torque multiplier. Also suggest a tire cart and for safety a jack stand that can support the weight of the RV rear. ....or take it to a truck service center. Also, always do both sides so braking effort remains equal.
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:04 PM   #4
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The only way to unstick a caliper is to remove the wheels. Then you remove the caliper mounting hardware, that could be sticking.


Make sure the axle seal isn't leaking grease on to the rotor.


Good Luck
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:17 PM   #5
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Yes, the important question is what year/what style disk brakes. Early Alpines had SLIDING CALIPERS. Later models had FIXED CALIPERS (2 pistons on each side). The fixed calipers were a big improvement.

Let us know which you have and we can assist with trouble shooting.

Brett
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
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What year/what model?
OP's profile says 05 Alpine 36' FDDS
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:46 PM   #7
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Another Question – 2005 Alpine Coach 36’ FDDS
Is this the caliper on The 2005 Alpine Coach ??
http://www.bosch-mobility-solutions.us/media/db_application/downloads/pdf/safety_1/en_4/Pin_Slide_Manual.pdf
If not – does anyone know where I can download the correct manual?
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Old 12-22-2014, 06:56 PM   #8
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No, that link is to a sliding caliper.

A 2005 will have fixed caliper brakes (the better ones with 4 pistons).

So, let's go through the trouble-shooting:

How old is the brake fluid? As it ages and absorbs moisture, it gets more viscous and in the extreme, allows moisture to pit the caliper walls.

So, first step if more than three years old is to replace/bleed out the old brake fluid.

If newer fluid or changing fluid does not fix it, you may have a collapsed brake line (the flexible line from metal line to caliper.).

If not that, particularly if you have been on very rough roads or done work in the basement is to check for a crushed brake line.

Bottom line, something is keeping pressure on that brake pad.

Brett
2003 Alpine 2003
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Old 12-22-2014, 08:48 PM   #9
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This may have nothing to do with your issue. I had a smoking drivers side rear brake that I thought was a hanging brake and it turned out to be a grease leak from the axle.
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Old 12-22-2014, 09:44 PM   #10
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Rear disc brakes on the Alpine are nearly impossible to access or even bleed properly without removing the wheel. Not sure what counts as excessive heat on a disc caliper, especially if been in heavy use recently. Know that water will boil routinely on the front calipers after heavy use. More troublesome is that one side of the disc doesnt appear to be making contact with the pads. You can bleed inside caliper without removing wheel to verify brake fluid flow. Then wheel off, check inside and outside caliper pistons for movement, inspect pistons and piston seals for leaks/damage. 450 to 500 ft/lbs on the wheel lugs, around a 100 ft/lbs on the caliper bolts--need to get out your "big boy" tools for this one.
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Old 12-23-2014, 08:07 AM   #11
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This is the correct manual.
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Old 12-23-2014, 10:31 AM   #12
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I read through the Meritor PFD document, interesting that with all the detailed 'exploded' diagrams and labels of parts, no illustration of the two bleeder valves on each caliper assembly is included. Just identified as 'inner and outer bleeder screws, inner on top.'
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Old 12-23-2014, 10:56 AM   #13
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I read through the Meritor PFD document, interesting that with all the detailed 'exploded' diagrams and labels of parts, no illustration of the two bleeder valves on each caliper assembly is included. Just identified as 'inner and outer bleeder screws, inner on top.'
Bob,

Open the PDF. Blow up the first page showing the whole caliper to 150%.

At the top of each side you can see the bleed screw. You can see more of the bleed screw on the left side, but can see the top of the bleed screw on the right side as well.

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Old 12-23-2014, 11:14 AM   #14
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I know there's a peak at the bleeders, but they aren't labeled or any illustration from the side of the caliper the bleeders are mounted. I was just curious since Old Scout had said, "are nearly impossible to access or even bleed properly without removing the wheel." Since the bleeders seem to be on the end of the caliper that would make them hard to get to with the dual tires.
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