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Old 08-25-2012, 07:27 AM   #15
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Think we can all agree periodic replacement of tires on our motorhomes is important and since most of us age out our tires vs wear out the tread, I am not sure new tires [tread-wise] front or back makes a significant difference on a coach. However, this concept seems very applicable to regular passenger vehicles--if it ever rains again in Texas, I think I'll be ready.

Now--moving way off topic: the primary problem with blow-outs on our coaches is what happens when/if the steel belts separate from the carcass. If the tire manages to stay intact, I am sure that maintaining speed/accelerating and not using the brakes is a good idea--assuming you have the presence of mind to remember all that [Personal experience--I didnt]. Anyway, when our coach tires blow--especially a font tire--the steel belts tend to separate from the tread, catch the interfender, and lock-up the affected wheel. At this point all bets are off--I am sure the suggested strategy for a conventional blowout may still help but with a front wheel locked, you are in for a really wild ride--hence the conversations about immediately jumping lanes or completely loosing control {of course routinely driving 70 or 75 MPH may also have something to do with the more notible blowout stories}.

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2003 40' MDTS
Garden Ridge, Texas
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Old 08-25-2012, 11:16 AM   #16
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OS - The older I get, the worse I can think quickly, so I agree with if we can remember all the stuff shown in the "tire blowout video". I have thought it would be nice to have a driving course as a refresher which might teach this stuff, but it most likely would blow my budget. I know when I checked to get my CDL reinstated it was over 4K for the classroom/driving training.

IMPO-Anyone who drives a MH at speeds over 65 (except for passing quickly) should not be driving in a MH. First I believe the tires heat up lots higher and quicker. Second I would wager that 98% of MH drivers have had no (none, any) CDL or its equivalent driver training for large heavy vehicles and as such doesn’t have a clue on the forces at work when going down the road. If you personally drive faster than 65 you are a danger to other drivers and I seriously hope you get ticketed. I used to drive at 65, but slowed down to 55-60 because I get way better fuel mileage and I do about the same miles at that speed. FWIW – Most states limit you to 55 anyway because you are in the more than two axles or towing a rig behind you and that requires that speed to be legal. Yeah, we have all seen the Prevost going down the road at 75.

Monty & Janet - 2007 Alpine APEX 40 MDTS
S/N - 75715 - Retired - Master Certified RV Tech
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:56 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
Recent discussion on the forum suggests the discount deals sponsored by FMCA for Michelin tires is a pretty good way to go. However, the best pricing for 275 80R is at about $530 per tire versus the 295 80R [direct replacement for the GYG670] at about $680 each--prices may vary by region/ tax and install separate.

Given that the Michelin 275s and the 295s [H Load rating] are "similar" in size and load, what would be wrong with putting 275s on the back axle and 295s on the front?????. My initial thought was --this just isnt done; but upon more reflection, I am not sure why you cant, and afterall, $600 is a tank or two of diesel.....As always--facts and opinions are both welcome.....

It never ceases to amaze me at the price variation in tires.. I am aware that tire prices have gone up considerably in the past two years, I bought Dayton 295/75/22.5 Decc 09 for $295, including excise tax. 6 tires balanced, new valve stems,and all tax, $2030.

I know Michein is a quality tire. We buy more expensive tires for longer tread life.... ( maybe a softer ride??) Since when is that a concern for an RV. They will deteriorate just as fast as lesser priced brands. Michelin tells us to start cheking them at 5 years old. In my 25 years in the trucking business I could get good service on everything except Goodyear. old trucker
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Old 08-31-2012, 07:07 PM   #18
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Just bought a used 2007 country coach with original Goodyear tires. No sign of dry rot, good tread. 28,000 miles on the coach. Do I need to replace the tires for safety?
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:12 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Haleyjean50 View Post
Just bought a used 2007 country coach with original Goodyear tires. No sign of dry rot, good tread. 28,000 miles on the coach. Do I need to replace the tires for safety?
If they are the original tires, I would definitely replace them. Especially since you were not the one taking care of them those years. I have had tread separation issues with tires around the 5 year mark on Class C coaches I owned before the Alpine Coach, even though they looked good. Look at the date codes on all of the tires. Even the inside duals. Some have been known to put the oldest tires on the inside where the codes are hard to read.

Peace of mind is worth it. One less thing to worry about as you enjoy your new coach. (Even if it isn't an Alpine!)

Jim A
'04 Alpine Coach 36' MDDS
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