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Old 05-11-2019, 03:47 PM   #15
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Very thorough, I commend you!


Did you happen to notice if there is any type of thin sealing tape/ribbon/strip between the rail and the body? Just curious as that's often SOP when attaching a strip to a surface that is exposed to water runoff.
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Old 05-11-2019, 03:48 PM   #16
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Joerg,


" I used that spray can rubberized sealant changed out the nozzle for one with an extension tube and placed it through a little plastic piece (as a shield). This sealant is very thin and my hopes are that it will penetrate in and around the screw head and sucked possibly in by the capillary effect."


Please tell us exactly what product you used. Thanks.
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Old 05-11-2019, 03:56 PM   #17
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Joerg,


" I used that spray can rubberized sealant changed out the nozzle for one with an extension tube and placed it through a little plastic piece (as a shield). This sealant is very thin and my hopes are that it will penetrate in and around the screw head and sucked possibly in by the capillary effect."


Please tell us exactly what product you used. Thanks.

As soon as I read that in his post, I thought of Flex Seal in the spray can. He may not have used that brand, however.
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:17 PM   #18
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Very thorough, I commend you!


Did you happen to notice if there is any type of thin sealing tape/ribbon/strip between the rail and the body? Just curious as that's often SOP when attaching a strip to a surface that is exposed to water runoff.
Yes at the very back end of the aluminum rail I was able to see a beige colored seal under the rail.
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:23 PM   #19
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Joerg,


" I used that spray can rubberized sealant changed out the nozzle for one with an extension tube and placed it through a little plastic piece (as a shield). This sealant is very thin and my hopes are that it will penetrate in and around the screw head and sucked possibly in by the capillary effect."


Please tell us exactly what product you used. Thanks.
I used Rustoleum Leak Seal. I don't think there are a lot of RV applications for this type of sealant but I think in this case it works well. I like that it is solvent thin in viscosity when it comes out of the can.
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:40 PM   #20
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Yes, you have done well, not much more a guy can do to correct factory shortcomings. But that is one nice-looking 13-yr-old MH...
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:51 PM   #21
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Yes, you have done well, not much more a guy can do to correct factory shortcomings. But that is one nice-looking 13-yr-old MH...


Thanks !! That makes me feel good. Honestly I have been working the last 3 weeks to improve this coach. New wallpaper, backsplash, painted the bathroom, new lithium batteries, fiberglass repair on roof, new roof paint, took the windows out and resealed using a foam core seal ... oh ja charged AC, put new shocks in and replaced entry steps and carpet ... I might forgot something ahh yes took all the lap sealant off everything on the roof and replaced it... I think that coveres it. Lol
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Old 05-12-2019, 12:50 PM   #22
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We had a good down poor last night and I checked this morning the floor in the battery compartment ... all dry.
Great !! That fix worked for now I am happy.
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Old 05-14-2019, 01:49 PM   #23
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Caulking on lower belt line molding?

You also need to check the engine air intake area. The intake is above the area you are having problems with. The intake faces the front and driving in a rain storm you will get water into the air intake. From what I have seen that is a wooden box, over time water getting in there will rot the wood. There have been several threads discussing the air capacity of that vent, in fact several people have doubled the intake size. What I am suggesting is that you remove the exterior cover and look for water infiltration.
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Old 05-14-2019, 03:40 PM   #24
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Thank you so much for pointing that out I will check it and also read up on that issue. So the thinking is that the cross section of that air intake is restricting the airflow to the filter I guess.
Interesting. First I will check if itís all in good shape.
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:26 AM   #25
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So the thinking is that the cross section of that air intake is restricting the airflow to the filter I guess.
Interesting. First I will check if itís all in good shape.

Would love to see some empirical data supporting this.


Before and after filter minder readings with nothing changed by increasing size if coach side intake size.


Not suggesting it IS or ISN'T true-- just would like to see FACTS supporting it.
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:10 AM   #26
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How did the paint on your moulding look after removal and replacing? I started looking at mine ( 01 Alpine) and the paint acted like it wanted to crack. so I was actually thinking of laying a bead of caulk along the top edge of the molding not sure if that's the way to go.thanks for any comments.
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Old 05-15-2019, 11:33 AM   #27
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How did the paint on your moulding look after removal and replacing? I started looking at mine ( 01 Alpine) and the paint acted like it wanted to crack. so I was actually thinking of laying a bead of caulk along the top edge of the molding not sure if that's the way to go.thanks for any comments.


I also had the concern for hat the paint would get damaged.
My wife and I worked removing the trim - its actually really easy once you get one of the ends started - and we held it in the same upright orientation the entire time. So upright is the rigid orientation and laying flat it will bend a lot. We transferred it to the ground this way and put it back on following the same method.
That worked out really well and the paint did not crack or got damaged in any way.
Hope that helps.
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:00 PM   #28
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Ok thanks I'll look a little closer I think my moulding is a little different profile. Thanks Matt
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