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Old 01-09-2009, 04:04 PM   #1
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Time has come to service this beast for the first time. I attempted to remove the remote fuel filter/water seperator. Fuel did not seem
to want to stop running out so I tightened the filter and decided to ask for some tech. advise. Is there a shut off valve from the tank?
Or did I just not wait long enough for the fuel to stop leaking out?
Any help would be appreciated.
Brad
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Old 01-09-2009, 04:40 PM   #2
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I have a 05 40mdts and it has a secondary fuel filter that is a bearcat to get at. Mine is located about 2 ft from other filter on side of the engine Larry
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Old 01-09-2009, 05:46 PM   #3
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Believe your 2005 has two filters--the primary w/Water separator located below the air filter and a secondary filter up on the passenger side of the engine. I understand the secondary is a bear to reach/change. As to your question--nope, the primary filter is below the level of the fuel tank so fuel will continue flowing until you get the new one inplace and tightened. Caution--there is a small [approx. 1" in dia] rubber gasket that goes on top of the primary filter. It may get stuck up in the mounting plate. Bottom line--in your haste to remove the old filter and secure the new one, this gasket can get overlooked....
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Old 01-10-2009, 06:46 AM   #4
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You might try lifting the rear with the jacks as high as possible.
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Old 01-10-2009, 07:44 AM   #5
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Thanks for the info. Maybe this should be done when the tank is not so full.
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Old 01-10-2009, 08:20 AM   #6
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Does the starter need to be removed to change the fuel filter on the side of the engine? It sure looks tight to me.
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Old 01-10-2009, 08:21 AM   #7
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I don't think a lower fuel level will help much. If you haven't worked on diesels before you may want to get some help. If you don't prime the filter properly you can get air in the system and this will stop the engine dead. Some engines have a manual priming pump but not Cummins, so you have to briefly toggle the ignition on and off to activate the electric fuel pump a few times.
Hopefully if you fill the new filter completely with fuel before you install it you will avoid this problem.
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:01 AM   #8
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John,
Thanks, I don't know the shape of the fuel tank,
but if it were 1.5 deep, that's a pretty good head pressure. From the looks of the flow, it won't take long to finish filling the filter before getting it tight. The secondary on the engine looks to be quite a challenge to get at.

Are there any posted instructions on how to prime the ISL 400 encase one messed up. I have had to do that procedure many times on a boat engine.
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:49 AM   #9
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On the 08 & 09 models the remote fuel filter is moved to the rear engine hatch above the frame line (top of fuel tank is just @ or below top of frame), and there is the side-of-engine secondary filter.
IIRC there are some years where the remote mounted filter is the only one per this thread

Current Cummins recommendation is not to prime the filter. My guess is that they consider chance of DIY'ers screwing that up & contaminating the injection pump sufficiently high that the air in fuel problems are preferable. IIWM I'd prime the filter thru a paper coffee filter, lube the o-ring @ top & spin it back on. Then leave the key on but don't start for 20-3- seconds before firing up the engine. You may get an engine stumble for a second or two w/this small amount of air, but shouldn't see anything more adverse. However, if you try this and this method causes you a large amount of trouble, don't do it

Some remote mounts have an air bleed screw. I just checked mine and it has a boss where one could be added w/some minor machining work, but other years might have the bleed screw. If yours does, then just spin on the dry filter (after lubing the o-ring w/diesel from old filter) and back the screw open, then key-on-engine-off till you get a spurt of fuel, then close the air bleed, and you are good to go.
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Old 01-10-2009, 12:36 PM   #10
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The fuel will continue to run but thats not all bad just have the new one ready to slip on.When you put the new one on and the fuel is running out let it fill the new filter up befor you tighten it down or you might have trouble getting the engine started.Always fill your fillers with fuel befor installing.(fuel filler)
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Old 01-10-2009, 01:21 PM   #11
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When I had Cummins replace the fuel filter they had me turn the ignition on for 30 sec without cranking. Then turn it off again and back on for 30 sec. I had to do this several times to get the system primed again. The fuel filter on your model is very difficult to get to. I had it done the last time.
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Old 01-10-2009, 01:26 PM   #12
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Brad,
I have a "C" engine not an "L" so can't help with the secondary filter as I don't have one.
My understanding with the priming routine is that you have to "bump" the starter not just turn on the ignition. A quick flick of the key on the starter causes the pump to operate for 30 seconds. Repeat this a few times as suggested.

I miss the setup I had on my boat. I had large Racor filters with built-in priming pumps. You just installed the filters dry, cracked open a bleed screw and pumped until fuel came out.
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:09 AM   #13
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Thanks to all!
I'll get'er done.
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Old 01-11-2009, 08:35 PM   #14
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On my 2002 with 350 engine there is one filter with a feed pump (also called lift pump) between the fuel tank and the filter. The feed pump will start and run for 30 seconds each time you turn the key on. Turn the key on then go back by the engine and listen you will hear it running. Do this 2 or 3 times after changing the filter, before starting the engine, and it will fill the fuel filter. When I remove the filter, fuel drains from the short line between the filter and the feed pump then stops.
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