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Old 11-25-2005, 06:29 AM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dave Fernandez:

The Fleetguard filter numbers for the ISC:

Oil Filter
(Fleetguard) LF 9009
Coolant Filter/Rust Inhibitor
(Fleetguard) WF 2074
Fuel/Water Seperator Element
(Fleetguard) FS 1022
Air Filter Element
(Fleetguard) AF 25549
(Nelson) 70472N
Hydraulic Filter (Three Needed)
(Nelson) 84220-A

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Dave, is this info good for the ISL also?
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Old 11-25-2005, 06:48 AM   #16
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The ISC and ISL vary a bit. The LF9009 oil filter is the same but there is a difference between the fuel filters. My ISL 400 takes an FS1003 primary filter and an FS5488 secondary fuel filter. The big difference between my ISL's primary filter and the primary filter in my friend's ISC 350 (Holiday Rambler) is the way the water sending unit is incorporated into the filter. Also, his ISC 350 has the coolant filter whereas my Allegro Bus has no coolant filter. I believe that some ISL 400s have them and some don't. I'd do some checking before ordering any filers for your specific coach.
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Old 03-28-2009, 11:57 PM   #17
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I read the following on another thread that might be helpful for rigs w/challenging filter locations (oil & on-engine fuel filters):
Just an idea that has helped me with the oil filter. On my Cummins, the filter is in a difficult place to get a strap wrench in place so I have done the following:
The day before I plan to replace the filter, I epoxy a large (1-1/2") nut to the bottom of the filter housing after scuffing up the paint on the housing with some sandpaper. Then when it comes time to replace the filter all I need is a 1-1/2" socket and wrench to loosen the filter. It has reduced the time greatly and allowed me to be sure that the new filter is installed correctly as it allows the use of a torque wrench to tighten to specs.
Hope this helps.
Pete

Thanks Pete.
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Old 03-29-2009, 08:49 AM   #18
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I sure wish I had known of the epoxy nut trick when I changed my primary fuel filter. Although I am not sure a sanitary job could be done without removing the starter on my rig.
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Old 03-29-2009, 08:52 AM   #19
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More thoughts on DIY maintenance--I try to let Cummins do it every other time--works out to about 12K miles or one year between changes. Costs a bit more but feel I might get something for my money by letting a "engine professional" crawl around under the rig. Still like to get my hands dirty so greasing the drive train and steering axle are a must for me before every major trip. Careful on the air cleaner--there are atleast two similar filters out there with slightly different size/diameter openings--am told using the one with too small an opening is a disaster. Given how easy the RV application is on our engines, I think once every five years on the coolant change is about right--IMO.....Havent tried using the coolant test stripes or changing the water filters[just let Cummins figure it out]--and note, later models nolonger have this filter.
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Old 03-29-2009, 11:42 AM   #20
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I have always done the oil changes on our diesel rigs. Due to elbow and shoulder issues, I found it hard to "catch" the old engine oil filter without spilling some oil as I remove it. Now I take an philips screwdriver or a punch and knock a hole in the bottom of the filter, letting it drain before I remove it. I have found this, to make that part of the job much easier.
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Old 03-29-2009, 08:31 PM   #21
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I found the magnet on my oil drain plug to be so strong that it will stay in place with out screwing it in while changing buckets. Not sure I will install th Fumoto valve I have next time I change oil.
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Old 04-01-2009, 12:59 AM   #22
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Wayne:

The advantage of the Fumoto valve is that you are installing it once and not risking cross threading every time you remove the plug. Or, more accurately, the grease monkey at the mechanic's shop doesn't cross thread it for you.
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Old 04-01-2009, 07:36 AM   #23
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I had my Newmar dealer do the first oil change, but had them replace the drain plug with a Fumoto valve. I'll do all future oil changes.

I haven't looked to see how difficult the fuel filter is to change, but I'll do that myself, too.
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Old 04-01-2009, 01:57 PM   #24
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I have my oil changed at Speedco. 30 Qts of Rotella, 3 filters, tire report, fill widshhield washer and generator service with oil and filter. All for about $235. No appointment necessary. Check the web site
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Old 04-01-2009, 02:08 PM   #25
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Although I can still DIY all my oil/filter changes, I have stopped by several www.Speedco.com stores for an inspection - just in case. Without a doubt I would use them if I couldn't DIY. The price is right, they can install FleetGuard filters upon request and every shop has been most knowledgable, well kept, and seemed to really know what they are doing - oh and did I say the price is right?
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Old 04-01-2009, 03:05 PM   #26
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69RR:

By the looks of your avatar, you could probably fit easily underneath the coach to do all the work. I'd be more likely to change my own oil if I were of the same stature.
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Old 04-01-2009, 04:52 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamblinThree View Post
I have my oil changed at Speedco. 30 Qts of Rotella, 3 filters, tire report, fill widshhield washer and generator service with oil and filter. All for about $235. No appointment necessary. Check the web site
Thanks for the tip

I'd never heard of them before
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Old 04-01-2009, 08:08 PM   #28
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69RR:

By the looks of your avatar, you could probably fit easily underneath the coach to do all the work. I'd be more likely to change my own oil if I were of the same stature.
Yeah, draining the oil is easy, but how do you expect me to fill it with 5 gallons of Delo?
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