Changing Own Oil

[denwhit]

I'm sure this subject has been discussed many times but forgive me as I am new to RV'ing and to this site, so I missed any previous discussions.
Why do the RV service facilities charge so much to change the oil, lube and filter? I understand the filter costs more than an automobile's, and there is something like 14 quarts of oil. Those might account for $35 more, not $175 more than a car!!
I plan on changing my own. What do you guys use? I think the previous owner used Rotella T 15/40 and I know that is good oil.
I have the 1999 40' Alpine with the 350 ISC Cummins engine. It has 33K miles on it. What filter can we buy at Walmart, Autozone, etc? Does anyone have the Fram number for my engine?
Thanks in advance.

[denwhit]

I'm sure this subject has been discussed many times but forgive me as I am new to RV'ing and to this site, so I missed any previous discussions.
Why do the RV service facilities charge so much to change the oil, lube and filter? I understand the filter costs more than an automobile's, and there is something like 14 quarts of oil. Those might account for $35 more, not $175 more than a car!!
I plan on changing my own. What do you guys use? I think the previous owner used Rotella T 15/40 and I know that is good oil.
I have the 1999 40' Alpine with the 350 ISC Cummins engine. It has 33K miles on it. What filter can we buy at Walmart, Autozone, etc? Does anyone have the Fram number for my engine?
Thanks in advance.

[Dave Fernandez]

Hello & Welcome Denwhit:

I do all my own service on our 2001 Alpine, with an ISC 350 Cummins. Rotella, Delo, Valvoline, Diesel motor oils are all fine. The filters can be purchased from a Cummins Distributor or from a Truck Parts House. I purchase some of my filters from NAPA. I do not think Auto Zone, Wal-Mart etc., will carry the proper filters. The ISC 350 holds 22 quarts with a filter change. You will need some coolant if you change the coolant filter, get some coolant test strips from Cummins to test the coolant and it needs to be changed every two years (About 10 Gal). The ISC also requires supplemental coolant additive (SCA).

The Fleetguard filter numbers for the ISC:

Oil Filter
(Fleetguard) LF 9009
Coolant Filter/Rust Inhibitor
(Fleetguard) WF 2074
Fuel/Water Seperator Element
(Fleetguard) FS 1022
Air Filter Element
(Fleetguard) AF 25549
(Nelson) 70472N
Hydraulic Filter (Three Needed)
(Nelson) 84220-A

Do not forget to lube the front steering and the drive shaft while you are under the coach.

You can check this web site out for some information on the ISC http://www.cummins-sp.com/support/rv...ration-isc.htm

I hope this helps, hope to meet you at one of the Rallies.

Dave

[EngineerMike]

$175 more than a car is pretty much of an invitation to shop elsewhere (assuming you are talking engine oil only). Most quickie oil change shops have a cow when a motorhome pulls in for a coupla reasons.
First, their grease monkey will probably leave oily smudges someplace inside your rig, if they follow protocol of them pulling your rig thru, and if you are pulling the rig thru then they are sweating your ability to avoid knocking their building down. The former means a claim for damages will kill their profit. The latter is somewhat obvious.
Second, their bays will only allow about a 7' wide rig B4 access around the vehicle is choked off, so servicing is actually harder.
Third, most don't really have a clue when your "bus" pulls in what they actually face.
Fourth, your rich, so you can afford to pay a lot & don't care about money.

If you want bargain service, find a Walmart that takes RV's. There is one near me, and I took our Trek there for about $35 for a 2 gallon oil change w/my filter. Haven't tried the Alpine yet, but better bring your own filter. Also, I'd check the filter seating & plug after exiting to make sure they didn't cross thread the plug (don't ask how I know to check for this, it ain't pretty) & got filter seated w/out putting 4000 ft.lbs of torque on it.

Dave- do you do your Allison oil & filters as well? I have the Allison service video & w/out the massive tray they have to catch oil, it looks like a mess waiting to happen. The reassembly/fill is straight forward, but the oil exit strategy is not my idea of fastidious or controlled.

[denwhit]

Hey thanks Guys, I've printed that info. out and will keep it on file.

[Dave Fernandez]

Hello Mike:

Yes I perform my own Trans Service. I converted over to TransSynd on the last two changes. It is easy to do and I have not made much of a miss. You need a container that holds at least 5 gal my container holds about 10 gal. I only get 4 gals out of the trans during the service. I also got the same video from Allison and found to be informative, when I saw it I knew it was easier than the servicing the Suburban transmission.

Dave

[Tom and Patty]

I change my own oil(thanks to Dave F's encouragement). One thing I have found is that when putting the new filter back on you have to work it around some hoses. There is a lot of dirt around the filter housing. I'm pretty fastidious, so I fill the new filter with oil and cover it with plastic wrap until I get it near the threads. Then I pull off the plastic wrap and screw it on. Keeps the dirt out of the new filter. Remember to check that you have ALL the plastic wrap off the top of the filter . I use 2 - 5 gallon buckets, and with great care screw the oil plug back in to change the buckets. Drop the plug and your like the boy with his finger in the dike

[Danny Gayhart]

I do most all of my own maintenance. I changed the engine oil once, which was enough for me. I now find a truck service facility and they usually charge me around $100 for oil, filters and lube.

Danny

[Cruzer]

I do my own service work as well. The 400 ISL does hold 7 gallons of oil so you'll need two 5 gallon buckets to hold it. Rather than mess with the drain plug halfway through the drain cycle, I installed a Fumoto Oil Valve - which is a drain petcock. Just give a 1/4 turn and it's open. It makes it easy to fill a bucket with 3.5 gallons, then switch buckets mess-free. It's of very good quality and I use it on some of my construction equipment as well. You can get the "N" model as well, which gives you a hose nipple. Then you can slide a short piece of rubber 3/8" fuel hose to direct the oil closer to the bucket. This is great on a gasser because of the front crossmember that's always in the way. They don't cost much and you can order them right off the website.

[denwhit]

Thanks for that link. That little valve will make it much easier. I ordered the one with the nipple.

[Stretch]

and denwhit dont forget the coolant filter, which I find the hardest of all because it seems to always lock itself onto the engine and i have to use a long filter wrench to get enough leverage. Generally i end up squashing the old filter trying to get it off. I always put lube on the new filters threads and seal before installing. But it still seems to be hard to get off. And dont forget the messy job of replacing the Power steering filters (3) that are stacked inside the power steering resevoir. You will get oily.

[VAGABONDMAN]

Cruzer,

Thanks for the link. I've ordered the oil valves for all of my rigs.

[bigfish]

While @ Cummins Mid State Power in Indy (Indianapolis) today, I asked what the standard charge was for a oil & filter change on a 400 ISL. Their standard charge is $350.00 was the service writer's reply.
I was down there for other work, but that's a big fish story for another time.
BT

[EngineerMike]

I think that's for a full LOF, which includes the Allison oil & its filters. If not, WAY TO GO MID STATE!!!