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Old 08-31-2008, 01:28 PM   #43
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Found a great buy on the coach battery solenoid Cole Hersee #24143. Less than half price at this site.

http://www.ase-supply.com/Solenoids_s/44.htm
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Old 08-31-2008, 07:16 PM   #44
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I see from the picture that he solenoid is silver. I had my solenoid go bad two years ago and WRV sent me a replacement under warranty. WRV said they were having trouble with the silver solenoids going bad. My newer one is black, and larger than the original. Have not had any problems with it.

Sorry, I don't have the brand or part number.
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Old 09-01-2008, 07:32 AM   #45
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Jerry,

I am sure that Ken has your answer. I looked at the solenoid that you are getting and it is rated at 200 amps. The #24812 solenoid, looks like the Trombetta solenoid that WRV used on our coach, is rated at 300 amps.
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Old 09-01-2008, 11:05 AM   #46
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The second time I replaced the solenoid I used a White-Rogers - black Bakelite case and much larger in size to the original silver unit. It didn't last much longer than 6 months.

The new Cole Hersee is supposed to be better than the original factory part......we'll see.

Why would a higher amp rating help when the only time the solenoid sees high amps is when you use the emergency battery start switch?
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Old 09-01-2008, 11:33 AM   #47
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Jerry,

I don't know why the original didn't last long.

As to the Amp rating, I think that the fact the 300 amp solenoid has heavier contacts, for the heavy load, would affect how it holds up to cycling. Every time the solenoid opperates there is a good size arc between the contacts. This arc pits the contacts, the amount of pitting depending on the load at that moment. This pitting causes some resistance and builds up over the life of the solenoid's life. How you use your 12 volt charging system will affect this. My solar system caused too much cycling. I haven't checked yet, but hope that the fact I added a 10 amp panel to the chassis batteries, will have cured this.
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Old 10-30-2008, 04:45 PM   #48
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Three weeks After installing another 300 amp Trombetta solenoid (my third solenoid)the chassis batteries were again not charging correctly. Finally giving up on changing solenoids I installed an Xantrex Echo Charger. This unit seems to have solved the chassis battery charging problem. Might be the answer for others having this problem.
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Old 11-01-2008, 11:11 AM   #49
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I just went out and checked my Echo charger and found that my wires were not on the correct terminals of the battery isolator. The red w/ yellow stripe wire comming out of the starting battery terminal was extended w/ a orange wire and then butt connected back to the red /w yellow stripe color wire and connected to the house battery side of the isolator. I swapped them around and will check voltages this next week.

Thanks again to this great list.

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Originally posted by Lindenberg:
I have a 2000 Alpine and the Echo charger wires were reversed. The house batteries were overcharging and the chassis batteries were never charged. On the left side of the battery compartment there is a large blue battery isolator. The two small wires connected to it run to the Echo charger to watch how the battery charging is progressing. The Echo charger was charging the house batteries but watching the progress of the chassis batteries. So the Echo unit never saw the house batteries being charged so it never switch over to charging the chassis batteries. I switched the two small wires on the battery isolator and now all batteries are charging as they should be.
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Old 11-03-2008, 09:42 AM   #50
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The #28412 solenoid is the latest Trombetta unit used by WRV. The White-Rogers unit has the case split & rivets on the top in a pocket where they would accumulate condensation or road moisture that would get sucked in as the case cooled if there was the tiniest leak around the rivets; moisture would cause early failure of the contacts exacerbating the effects of arcing.
Trombetta splits the case on the bottom, & rivets thru the case flange only.
The Cole-Hersee is rated at 85 amps continuous duty if you get the marine rated one (IIRC). That is enough of a rating for normal conditions, but if the coach sees conditions that include heavy cycling of the solenoid, the Cole-Hersee's fail early. I carry spare solenoids.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:32 PM   #51
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Just back from the Desert Rat Rally, with 2 solenoid theories:
#1 theory: Seems like eventually many of us fall into a usage/charge black hole. The house batteries get up to voltage that will kick on LED 19 on the Vansco or otherwise feed 12V to close the charging solenoid contacts & connect house to chassis batt's, but as soon as the connection is made, & if chassis batteries draw enough charging current to drop house batt voltage a coupla tenths of a volt, then house voltage is again insufficient to continue the call to connect both banks & the solenoid is denied the 12V closing signal & it disconnects. With less load on the charge circuit (no chassis), house batt's again rise to sufficient voltage & repeat the above. Again. & again. Till the solenoid contacts are burned from overuse and now the resistance of the burned contacts themselves adds to the voltage drop, further assuring more cycling.
The cure is proper charge rates that will take house voltage up quickly (my Xantrex was programmed w/"Batt Size" that limited charge rate to <10A), coupled w/regular charging so that chassis batt's are not way down. Since that isn't always possible, carry spare solenoids as you may find yours burned at an inopportune time.

#2 theory: The guy @ WRV, who installed solenoids on the metal backboard (that stands off the frame in the batt compartment a whole 3/8" or so and behind which no human hands can fit) using machine screws and nuts on the back side where no human hands can fit to stop them from spinning, needs a memorable lesson
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:21 PM   #52
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All of my batteries are (were) original equipment. I took delivery of my coach in April 2004, so they have to be at least 5 years old. I have tried to take good care of them, cleaning and equalizing them every 6 months or so. Not a bad run for batteries.
While equalizing last month, I got a battery overheat message on the Onan panel. Turns out one of the chassis batteries had a bad cell.
I replaced both chassis batteries and a question came to mind. I have always been told that you never replace only one battery in a bank, that the weak battery will drag the new one down.
Now I have new chassis batteries and the original house batteries. Considering the problems discussed in this forum regarding the battery isolator, do we truly have two separate battery banks? My coach also has an Echo Charger due to previous issues with the isolator.
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:40 PM   #53
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HTG3,

The concern about not replacing only one battery in a bank, refers to either the house bank or the chassis bank. The two are separate "banks" and are jumped just for charging or emergency starting. The concern about the weaker one or ones dragging down the stronger ones relates to the time when they are not being charged. What you did should be fine.
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:26 PM   #54
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What are your sources for the Trombetta #28412, I'm having a hard time locating them.
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Old 03-12-2009, 11:53 PM   #55
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Dick- if you search at the Alpine Owner's Forum level on "Trombetta" you will find some links where the solenoid can be had for a good price.
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Old 03-13-2009, 08:13 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EngineerMike View Post
Just back from the Desert Rat Rally, with 2 solenoid theories:
#1 theory: Seems like eventually many of us fall into a usage/charge black hole. The house batteries get up to voltage that will kick on LED 19 on the Vansco or otherwise feed 12V to close the charging solenoid contacts & connect house to chassis batt's, but as soon as the connection is made, & if chassis batteries draw enough charging current to drop house batt voltage a coupla tenths of a volt, then house voltage is again insufficient to continue the call to connect both banks & the solenoid is denied the 12V closing signal & it disconnects. With less load on the charge circuit (no chassis), house batt's again rise to sufficient voltage & repeat the above. Again. & again. Till the solenoid contacts are burned from overuse and now the resistance of the burned contacts themselves adds to the voltage drop, further assuring more cycling.

Bravo Mike!
That makes a lot of sense. I finally just installed an Echo charger and I'm considering disabling/disconnecting the Vansco function/connection.
Doesn't the same solenoid provide the battery boost? Thinking I want to preserve that function and save the solenoid from another "cycling failure.
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