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Old 01-06-2014, 06:59 PM   #15
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Coach Won't Start - 4th Post

Coach Won't Start - 4th Post

So as I'm driving down the road and the dash LED screen reads 13.9 vdc ---- I am assuming that means the alternator is working OK and putting out the 13.9 vdc that the dash reads. Also my VMSpc Silverleaf shows 13.9 vdc. The alternator must have been recharging the HOUSE BATTERIES because they were at 13.6 vdc when I got home and I had ran the furnace for 6 hours. But -- the START BATTERIES were at 11.6 vdc.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
If the emergency switch works off the START BATTERIES - what good is it if the START BATTERIES are down and it won't power the solenoid? It seems to me that the emergency switch should be powered by the HOUSE BATTERIES.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:23 PM   #16
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Sounds like your chassis batteries are bad and not holding a charge.The alternator must be delivering more than 13 volts to your chassis batteries while going down the road or the coach batteries wouldn't stay at 13.6 volts. If the chassis batteries are dropping to 11.6 volts when you shut off the engine they are not holding a charge or, there is a large drain like the engine pre heat coils being stuck on or some other thing that would draw them down.
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:20 AM   #17
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Turn your engine start battery switch to the off position.

Measure the now disconnected fully charged start battery voltage. It should be 13+ VDC.

With the VOM meter still connected to the engine start battery, turn the battery switch to the on position and measure the battery voltage once again.

If there are no loads, the voltage should not change.

If it does, you have a load somewhere. Now the work begins. Start looking for the load.

I would disconnect fuses until you find the circuit that is loading your start battery.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:08 AM   #18
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TJ- the solenoid has to be powered by one or the other bank & if that bank is low then the boost switch can't jump the batts. They had to pick one bank for the programming.
A sillier situation is the AGS. House batt volts go low so call for the gen to start (off the Chassis batts). If chassis is to low it can't start Gen. Here the circuit should have been designed to monitor both banks & start the gen in either case of low house or getting-low chassis.

In the mean time you could fashion a jumper using alligator clips, from house to the boost solenoid +coil stud to jump start the engine. If you don't know which is the +coil stud, put a 1A fuse in line in your jumper &if you pick the wrong stud of the 2, then replace fuse & pick the other stud on 2nd try. Remove jumper after the engine starts or, if one bank is bad you'll drain the good one after you shut the engine off.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:17 PM   #19
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I am old school and carry jumper cables (since I don't have a combining relay) but in 7 years have never had to use them. Just lucky I guess.
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:23 PM   #20
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Thanks to everyone who is trying to help. I forgot to mention that I have two large solar panels that are wired through a controller directly to the house batteries. This might be why the house batteries were not discharged after running the furnace for 6 hours while driving - it was a very sunny day. Sorry about that. There are a couple of things I still don't understand. 1.) Is voltage shown on the dash and the Silverleaf "The Alternator Voltage? 2.) If "YES" then why were the chassis batteries not being charged? I will check the voltage at the chassis batteries with the motor running to verify it is getting 13.8vdc. 3.) What good is the EMERGENCY START SWITCH if it will not operate if the chassis batteries are discharged. I thought the reason the EMERGENCY START system was: if the chassis batteries are discharged you could hold the switch down and start the coach motor of the generator from the house batteries. If it is not for that - then what is it for?
I'm to do more checking tomorrow. Thanks again!
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:42 PM   #21
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Hey Mike!
If the solenoid can be powered from either set of batteries then why wouldn't it work when the house batteries were at 13.6vdc. I tried it and "nothing" - the engine would crank.
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Old 01-10-2014, 10:39 PM   #22
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Because the Vansco is also powered by the chassis batts &it had a min voltage threshold.
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:56 PM   #23
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I just had the same problem. I had a blown fuse. From the Echo Charger to the battery isolator. There are (2) 20 amp fuses right up close to the isolator.pull them apart and check for a blown fuse. That will keep from charging when hooked up to shore power too.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:27 AM   #24
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Alpine Coach Charging Issue

GM RV Nation. Need your help. My alternator is not charging my engine batteries. 2 brand new L/N alternator installed and both or not charging. At Love's mechanic shop and after going through all the possible issues we came to the conclusion that the battery isolator is bad. Someone please help. Batteries are good.
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:50 PM   #25
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Why don't you just buy a new battery isolator if it is bad?
Below web page has lots of info.
https://www.google.com/search?q=batt...hrome&ie=UTF-8
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:05 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chillwill View Post
GM RV Nation. Need your help. My alternator is not charging my engine batteries. 2 brand new L/N alternator installed and both or not charging. At Love's mechanic shop and after going through all the possible issues we came to the conclusion that the battery isolator is bad. Someone please help. Batteries are good.
Have them jump the isolator posts together. That will confirm if the alternators are actually bad.

If it charges jumped, leave it that way and get to a shop that understands the DuVac system.

The LN alternators that work thru isolators need a DuVac sense wire connected and many shops don't understand it.
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Old 07-26-2016, 07:34 PM   #27
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Just a word of caution. Jumping across the isolator is fine for testing.

BUT (yes, big BUT) it would not be safe to drive with a jumper wire. Were either end to come off and touch any metal, you would be ARC WELDING!

Yes, alternators on RV's are quite different from those on trucks.

Both have a B+ and ground
RV alternators generally have an external "sense" wire.
Some RV alternators also have an IGN wire that is hot only when the ignition is on.

Wiring one incorrectly, or using an alternator not designed for an RV application will cause a LOT of headaches.

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Old 07-26-2016, 07:43 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by wolfe10 View Post
Just a word of caution. Jumping across the isolator is fine for testing.

BUT (yes, big BUT) it would not be safe to drive with a jumper wire. Were either end to come off and touch any metal, you would be ARC WELDING!

Yes, alternators on RV's are quite different from those on trucks.

Both have a B+ and ground
RV alternators generally have an external "sense" wire.
Some RV alternators also have an IGN wire that is hot only when the ignition is on.

Wiring one incorrectly, or using an alternator not designed for an RV application will cause a LOT of headaches.

Brett
2003 Alpine 38FDDS
Good point about the high current.

I should have said, remove and combine the 3 wires on one post or use jumpers with ring terminals.
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