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Old 12-03-2006, 06:17 AM   #1
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I will be spending the next few weeks in NY. Any suggestions on cold weather prep or precautions. I will be living in the coach.

Also any suggestion on where to purchase snow chains. I have tried at a few of the Flying-J's no luck.
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Old 12-03-2006, 06:17 AM   #2
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I will be spending the next few weeks in NY. Any suggestions on cold weather prep or precautions. I will be living in the coach.

Also any suggestion on where to purchase snow chains. I have tried at a few of the Flying-J's no luck.
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Old 12-03-2006, 09:22 PM   #3
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We were in Indiana a few years back and the outside temps went as low as 12 degrees F. I did put a remote temperature sensor behind the sanitation bay panel. It never did get down to 32. We did however put an electric heater in the basement to help keep it warm, set on the no freeze setting. Our propane furnace did run frequently .

We also kept a roof vent cracked to prevent build up of moisture on the windows.

As far a chains, I think I would pull over and wait it out if chains were needed....that's alot of snow and ice .
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Old 12-04-2006, 05:40 AM   #4
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Greetings from Lake Conroe, Texas,

An electric heater inside the coach will help lower your propane usage. Of course, fill your fresh water tank and disconnect the hose. One winter we had our hose freeze every night in Florida from Destin down to Tampa.We decided we could be cold at home and went back to Texas.
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Old 12-04-2006, 06:18 AM   #5
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I'm not sure why you would put an electric heater in the bay if you are running the furnace - - doesn't yours also heat the basement? I know our basement is as toasty as can be - - in fact it is probably warmer than area around the driver's seat. There is a lot of cold air that comes in there and I'm not sure where/what to block or cover. Anyway have any ideas? It was 24 in Tyler last night and aside from the fact that the furnace runs a lot, we were as snug as could be. Did disconnect the water hose. I also found a really cold draft under the kitchen - the rubber around the area where the slide fits in wasn't coming all the way back up to fit tight. I have found that a little duck tape covers the opening (I put a piece across the extend button to remind me) and really helps.

Of course the best solution is to keep going south.
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Old 12-04-2006, 08:59 AM   #6
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Agree--best solution for cold weather is to move south. ("No brainer" in RV Parks--below 40 degrees, use electric heaters). Absent that, here are a couple things I've been working on for our annual trips to Desert Rat--dry camping. Our 2003 40'MD was hard to heat upfront--bad news since propane furnace is slaved to front heat pump and uses the thermostat/sensor(over driver's seat). Result--furnace ran continuously yet front of coach remained cold and bedroom was too hot.
Item 1: I put a tee in the 4" heat pipe going to vent under the bed and routed a second 4" pipe from the tee thru the access port under the resid frig. (replaced the existing 2" pipe). This allows us to shut off the under-bed vent and bring more warm air forward.
Item 2: Replaced the old 4" flex pipe (looked like dryer hose-which it is) going to the floor vent by the dining table with std insulated 4" flex pipe (25' for $19.95 at Home Depot). Rationale-- amount of heat radiated away from 22' of aluminum "dryer hose" into the basement has to be incredible. (Caution--wasn't sure insulated pipe was heat-rated for direct connect to furnace outlet so left 18" of old aluminum pipe in place for transition.) Also had to squeeze the insulated pipe thru a couple of tight spots--two bulkhead openings and between the floor and one room slide ram [support tube] but this didnt seem to cause any flow restrictions.
End result--much better heat distribution forward so the furnace thermostat actually works. No noticeable decrease in ability to heat basement tank area (confirmed by remote sensor).
Regarding severe cold/snow--keep slides closed, remove outside hoses, and wait for snow to melt--dont think that even professional truck drivers would mess with chains if they weren't on a schedule..
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Old 12-06-2006, 07:10 PM   #7
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I had a 40FDTS, Was always cool up front.One thing I found was the res.frig.crushes the 2" duct flat.Check to see if your getting any warm air from there.Also be careful not to block too many ducts off to get more warm air up front.It will cause too much back presure on furance and burn up C/B
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Old 12-07-2006, 06:23 AM   #8
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Least I be misunderstood--the key to warming the front end of the coach is to redirect available heat forward thru new/larger/more efficient pipes, not blocking off air flow. One word for the 2" pipe behind the frig--useless! Short of installing an after market hydro-hot, the best possible outcome is get more air distributed thru the one propane furnace. (Note that many older 40'+ SOBs have two furnaces)
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Old 12-07-2006, 01:33 PM   #9
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We've been spending a week in Southern New Mexico where the nighttime temps have been getting down to the mid teens. We keep fill our water tank as needed so that we don't have a water hose connected overnight. Our hydro-hot is keeping things warm enough (actually, we think the inverter keeps the basement warm anyway).

So far, so good - but I don't think we plan to move anywhere colder! Mid-teens at night is about as cold as we can take, and only acceptable if it warms above freezing during the day.

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Old 12-07-2006, 06:45 PM   #10
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One nice thing about the big windows up front - if the sun is out, it can warm up the whole coach in nothing flat.

Our problem is the location of the temperature sensor in the front of the coach - - not only is it a problem in the winter, but also in the summer. It is just a bad location but one we are learning to live with - - and the best solution is far enough south in the winter and far enough north in the summer.
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Old 12-07-2006, 06:54 PM   #11
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Yeah that front temp sensor is a problem!

A couple of things we did when we came here (Bosque Del Apache):
* Parked facing south - so that sun is hitting the big windows all day.
* Put our black sunscreens up - to help heat up during the day, and to provide another air-trapping layer of insulation at night.

Wayne also gave us great advice for last year when we couldn't run our diesel hydro-hot (was running rich and too smelly). At night, set the front temps low and the back to a comfortable level, and keep the sliding door closed between them. We use that same technique now, even though our hydro-hot is fixed.

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Old 12-07-2006, 07:19 PM   #12
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Another way to keep smells (Exhaust) from entering your coach is if you have Vent Fans that can draw air from outside and pressurize the interior of the coach and force air out of all the openings. This will keep the exhaust fumes from entering. I have used this in the summer when the generator was running.
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Old 12-09-2006, 02:56 PM   #13
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Trehcub,
coming from the real cold zone {can get down to -40 at worse and seen plenty of -20 to 10....} One of the things that got me was the ice maker has a plastic connection hose that is for ice cube making located on the passenger side. There is a exterior panel that comes off around the area of the refrigerator. That plastic line to it is the cube maker water supply line.
That plastic device is very susceptible to freezing and breaking. This was the one device that did not survive this kind of weather.
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Old 12-20-2006, 10:18 AM   #14
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One of the BEST THINGS we ever did, was buy an electric heated mattress cover for our bed. A queen-size dual-control one fits the bed well. It only draws 1 amp! It's great for warming the bed before you get in it (yummm!), and in coldest weather having it on lets you sleep very comfortably even if you let the bedroom get cold.

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