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Old 10-29-2006, 05:50 AM   #15
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That is a real big difference from an electric blanket.

Ted & Carol Ulmer
2005 Alpine 34', 34FDDS
2006 PT Turbo pusher
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:59 AM   #16
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Operative words.

Think "Catalytic Heaters"

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Old 12-30-2010, 09:36 PM   #17
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Hmm, the HH unit is 12V in all operations modes except when using the electric element. Its operation is 50 K BTU outputs, so it heats up the boiler fluid very hot to the range 160-190 degrees F.

Zone 1 - consists of all registers in the front half of the coach forward of the kitchen. The air handlers are located behind the PS dash; under the couch; in the kitchen for a total of three.

Zone 2 – consists of all registers in the rear half of the coach aft of the kitchen. There are located under the bathroom sink maybe; under the rear drawer bank in the bedroom for a total of 2. Zone 2 also controls the basement heat zone sort of, as it has to be on for that air handler to work.

Diesel fuel has a very high BTU quotient, so its way more efficient than propane, so use and it actually will work better the more you use it. The ULSD diesel seems to keep it cleaner longer and service intervals are extended out to 18 months if you use it a lot.

If have shore power – (http://pelonis.com/) pelonis electric heater works really well to keep the coach warm, however, Zone 2 of the HH system needs to be on heat, and either the electric element or diesel burner selected so the air handler in the basement runs when it's thermostat calls for heat, it should be set around 40 degrees.

If you have AGS (Automatic Generator Start) you can program it to start based on battery voltage levels, so set the low threshold to 12.2V and the upper to 12.8V. Put your quiet hours in as 11 pm to 8 am, so you don’t make fellow campers mad.

The roof heat pumps lose efficiency at around 45 degrees and below so you are just wasting electricity if you are trying to run them below that temp. Additionally, you can damage them if they freeze up severely and can bend or break a coolant line, which then is very expensive to fix. Only run them if the genset is working or you have shore power. You cannot run them off the inverter as the starting current is too high and will trip the breaker on the Inverter and they are not wired into that system anyway.

To recap, the diesel burner is a much better and more efficient way to heat the coach provided you are getting good air flow from the Cozy units, if not, the read the thread on Hydro Hot in this forum.

Fill the fresh water tank – then disconnect the fresh water hose if the outside air will be freezing or below. You can also close the gray water tank valve, and not have to worry about that one freezing either. I don’t disconnect my sewer hose, but do close the valve if it’s going to be down in the mid 20’s.

Hope this helps.
Monty & Janet - 2007 Alpine APEX 40 MDTS
S/N - 75715 - Retired - Master Certified RV Tech
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Old 12-31-2010, 06:51 PM   #18
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In October I had the annual maintenance done on our HH. I asked about the fuel consumption, the tech said the nozzle is a 0.36, meaning it uses about 1/3 of a gallon per hour. We just went through three nights of 28 degree lows, we disconnected (and drained) the water hose and ran on a portable disc heater (we are on park power with the HH set on electric only but it would work on the generator) until we went to bed around midnight, then shut off the disc heater and turned on the diesel. We woke up to a toasty 68 degrees around 6:30, I figure we burned 2 gallons of diesel overnight, at $3 per gallon I can handle that.
Dave, Bobbi and Fenway
2005 38' FDTS Alpine Limited, 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
Cape Cod, MA
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Old 01-01-2011, 10:59 PM   #19
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Here in Ehrenberg, AZ it has been down to 30 or so at night. We have not been running the diesel burner because we have an exhaust leak, and that comes inside. So we have been getting by with an electric heater and the electric element keeping the basement warm at night.

I turn on the electric heater and it keeps the coach warm enough at night to prevent the HH from running a lot. However, since zone 2 is on and set to 53, if the basement heat is needed it will come on and the electric portion has enough in it to keep those pipes from freezing.

Once I get over this cold, I will find a place and fix it, but with it being cold and having one, I don’t want a worse situation with my health, so it's going to wait until I feel better. It's supposed to warm up gradually over the next week, and we move on Wednesday, so between that, I'm sure I'll find a place I can get under it and fix it.
Monty & Janet - 2007 Alpine APEX 40 MDTS
S/N - 75715 - Retired - Master Certified RV Tech
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Old 01-02-2011, 02:09 PM   #20
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Monty- first place you may want to look for that exhaust leak is the joint between muffler pipe & the threaded sched.40-ish pipe coming off the HH unit. I'm guessing the sch.40 pipe is well sealed to the burner exhaust, but that is a guess. However, IIRC you have the same sloppy anchorage of muffler pipe I do, and the joint between the thick wall pipe & thin wall appears to be a simple slip joint, & I'm pretty sure mine is loose. That's bound to leak some.
Doesn't mean that'll be the only leak.
Baja-tested '08 2-slide 36'
Alpine: The Ultimate DIY'er Project
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:07 PM   #21
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Mike, I think the place it's leaking is the place where the exhause pipe which goes all the way over the rear end and out the back, joint where it meets the pipe which comes down out of the HH unit. First unknown to me, that hanger bracket over the rear end broke, and the pipe was being knocked around some, and has it appears rounded out some where it meets the other pipe. I may have to have a new pipe constructed to really fix it, but once I can get under there safely, I will at least put on a new hanger bracket. If I can figure out how to get it high enough and crawl under it to work, hopefully soon, I will do that part. If it needs a new pipe, I will nurse it until I can take it home and have one made, or see if I can get the flexible exhause pipe and form my own, using the old one as a example.
Monty & Janet - 2007 Alpine APEX 40 MDTS
S/N - 75715 - Retired - Master Certified RV Tech
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:57 PM   #22
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Silicone rescue tape may work well, until summer returns. Seems to work for everything else.

2003 Alpine 40FDTS (400HP)
Long Beach, CA
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