Complete Loss of 110v

[Retiredfields]

I am new to the forum , but have had my 34' 2006 for three years. Thought this might be valuable.

While campground hosting in Yellowstone last summer, my coach suddenly lost all 110v power and the inverter was issuing an alarm. The inverter panel said loss of common wire.

After some searching, I checked the transfer switch, located in the bay area. It smelled like burnt plastic. I opened it up and sure enough, the insulation on the common wire (white) on the shore power input side was melted about 5 inches. It had clearly been very hot. Further investigation showed that the copper wire had never been inserted into its clamp and screwed down. The wire had been just touching the clamp and making marginal contact. It lasted like that for almost three years until it finally got so hot the tip melted and broke contact.

I was able to cut off about 6 inches from all the input wires and re-attach all of them properly. Fortunately, no damage was done to the transfer switch. Could have easily been a fire.

Suggestion: Find your transfer switch and while your A/C's are running, feel the shore power wire and output wire, right at the switch. If it feels warm or hot, check further.

Great forum!

Ken

[Retiredfields]

I am new to the forum , but have had my 34' 2006 for three years. Thought this might be valuable.

While campground hosting in Yellowstone last summer, my coach suddenly lost all 110v power and the inverter was issuing an alarm. The inverter panel said loss of common wire.

After some searching, I checked the transfer switch, located in the bay area. It smelled like burnt plastic. I opened it up and sure enough, the insulation on the common wire (white) on the shore power input side was melted about 5 inches. It had clearly been very hot. Further investigation showed that the copper wire had never been inserted into its clamp and screwed down. The wire had been just touching the clamp and making marginal contact. It lasted like that for almost three years until it finally got so hot the tip melted and broke contact.

I was able to cut off about 6 inches from all the input wires and re-attach all of them properly. Fortunately, no damage was done to the transfer switch. Could have easily been a fire.

Suggestion: Find your transfer switch and while your A/C's are running, feel the shore power wire and output wire, right at the switch. If it feels warm or hot, check further.

Great forum!

Ken

[Route 66]

Ken, welcome to iRV2.

Your problem is not an isolated incident.

ALL owners should check those connections, as I found one that was too loose, and other owners have also found loose connections.

Be sure to unplug from shore power, generator and inverter off for safety before getting into the transfer switch.

[Bill Davis]

Does anyone have information on who makes transfer switches, websites, etc. Would be nice to have some documentation before getting in there. Thanks.

[RV Wizard]

Iota is a popular brand of transfer swithes. Here is a wiring diagram for a 50 amp switch
http://www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/50rint.pdf
Here is a 30 amp wiring diagram
http://www.solar-electric.com//PDF_files/30rint.pdf

[FRED MASINO]

I've used thia transfer switch for 4 years, also work as a surge guard.

http://www.surgeguard.com/10040A.html


Fred & Masino
2001 Alpine Coach 40FDS

[Bill Davis]

Mine is an ESCO 50M-65N. I found the website www.escousa.net with info and drawings. It's inside a bedroom compartment, but accessable. I have been considering installing a hardwired Surgeguard to replace my portable unit. Looks like this would be the place to do it, in front of the transfer switch. 4 wire power cord in, 4 wire out to transfer switch. Sound right?

[RV Wizard]

Right

[Nick Escamilla]

Ken
Welcome to the forum and sharing you experience. As a result of your topic I decided to look at my connection on the transfer switch and the generator connection in the gray box located in the generator compartment. I'm glad I did!!. The connection in the generator compartment were loose and not connected properly. The wire nuts are to small for the application. RED wire nuts with black tape feel off when I moved them to check for tight. If you have RED WIRE NUTS replace them with Blue nuts to support the wire size. Also my wire was not stripped back far enough to make a good twist connection. Thanks Ken for bring this issue up once again and it was nice meeting you. (Elevator Guy)

[Retiredfields]

Nick,

I'm gonna check my generator as soon as we take off towards Yosemite. If WRV had someone inspecting their work, like you inspect the elevators, we would have all been a lot better off.

We will be in Yosemite, North Pines Campground, doing volunteer work Jul-Oct. If I can be of assistance to anyone heading that way, let me know.

Ken & Nancy

[BOB E]

I've never trusted wire nuts on anything where there is movement or vibration. Suggest visit your local electric supply house (or Lowes?) & buy some copper u-bolt cable/wire clamps. They come in various sizes that will accomodate the wire guage you're working with. Once tightened (torqued) they won't loosen. Another choice would be to use crimp type connectors.