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Old 09-09-2006, 12:38 PM   #15
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TedIII: Do you have the part # for the pressure relief valve from Cummins that shuts down at 135#? I could offload my compressor. Every bit helps.
Thanks
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Old 09-09-2006, 01:57 PM   #16
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Bruce,I use a filter like the K&N brand. It can be cleaned then re-oiled and used till it needs service again.......Got it at an FMCA show,And it will last a long time with many cleanings.

Be Safe; Chuck Czuleger
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Old 09-18-2006, 05:00 AM   #17
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Chris & Debi, yes I do have the number but it is in my coach. I will get it and post it.
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Old 09-18-2006, 08:15 AM   #18
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We also use and highly recommend a K&N air filter. We have had the same filter on our 2004 since we bought it, and it is still in great shape.
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:00 AM   #19
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Chris and Debi (and Ted for that matter),

Ted posted the Bendix part number a while back. Check the "Portable Air Compressor to 120 PSI" thread. It was:

Cummins Air Compressor 400ISL-115-135PSI, P/N 283657D-2

I have not pursued it yet, so I can't tell you for sure if it was correct. But with Ted I would assume so.
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:45 AM   #20
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The only thing I have found for K&N is for cars and pickup trucks. Where do you purchase your K&N air filter, and do you know the part number?

Bruce
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Old 09-19-2006, 05:03 AM   #21
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Bruce

I would think "Long and Hard" before substitution of a factory approved air filter. The long range effects could be devastating. I have never examined a K&N for RV's but in the Jeep community the K&N is not popular. If you hold one up to the sun you will see why, the filter is as porous as a screen door. Great for performance, poor for engine life.

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Old 09-19-2006, 08:00 AM   #22
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Danny Gayhart: Great for performance, poor for engine life. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I'm not too sure about that. K & N touts that their filters capture even smaller particles than the traditional paper filter. I believe this to be true, especially because the K & N is an oil permeated cloth filter.

The wavelength of light is quite a bit smaller than the particles you are intending to capture in the filter. Remember your engine has to breath through this filter, so better air flow is ALWAYS good.
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Old 09-19-2006, 03:04 PM   #23
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Chris & Debi, I really thought it was the coyote that asked for the P/N but I will have to wait to get back at him in some other way. Everything always comes around. Anyway, the compressor check valve is a Bendix valve P/N 283657-2 and it bolts on in place of the valve you have existing. On my engine and I am sure on yours looking at the coach from the rear the valve is on the right bolted to the engine about halfway down the engine. When you get your head in there you can follow the air lines. Very easy procedure to replace. As noted I took one of my front tires from 115# to 120# and I figured about 30 seconds a pound. A great many service stations cannot pump that kind of pressure with that kind of volume. (referenced as CFM) Let me know if you have any problems getting it and I will get you one. I believe it was $ 55-60.00.
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Old 09-19-2006, 03:10 PM   #24
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Keep in mind that the yellow coil air hoses
are really neat to store but the ID is quite small.This will make adding air to your tires even slower. I would buy an air hose with at least an ID of 1/4" no less and be very cautious of the pressure rating of the hose. I would think a minimum of 500 #'s to 750 #'s. Mike E could help with that answer.
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Old 09-20-2006, 10:55 AM   #25
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Ted: Could you tell me where (on-line) that I could find the Bendix valve? That's the only way we can shop way up here.
Thanks
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Old 09-20-2006, 07:21 PM   #26
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Chris & Debi, I am certain that I got oors from WRV. I will verify when I check through my records. Call Dave Kaampi and ask him in service.
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:07 AM   #27
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Ted- Air hoses should be rated for &gt;200psi, probably most around 300+ are decent. I shop at a local store in Sacramento that specializes in air equip for industrial users; I carry supple "superflex" lines cuz I'm a tool junkie. I carry a 50' x 1/4" line (non-"coil") for reaching all tires and a separate ultra-supple coil type (not the hard yellow plastic) that's maybe 20' for mobility of air tools other than the tire chuck.

Jeff- Better air flow can't always better, or no air filter would be the best. Filtration is a balancing act between free air flow and particulate trapping. In a diesel, multiple times more so than in gas engines due to the very high compression in diesel, dirt is destructive due to its abrasive action. In independent filtration tests for GM diesels (run standardized weighed samples of dirt/dust thru different filters at velocities approximating engine-run conditions, then compare before-after weights of the filters to determine the amount trapped), K&N trapped the least stuff (i.e. passed the most stuff thru to the engine). I agree the K&N is easier breathing than most paper filters, but I wouldn't risk my engine's longevity on it. If there was a K&N product that replaced the fiter can with a larger one accomodating a significantly larger filter diameter (so as to slow the air velocity thru the filter & allow comparable filtration), I'd be looking. But I'm not aware of that type of retrofit. IMO, OEM paper filters are good insurance for the big sweaty wad of money I put into Cummins' pockets.
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Old 09-21-2006, 05:15 PM   #28
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Mike, thanks for clearing up the air hose pressure situation. I am definitely showing my age with a company called Repair Unlimited, Inc. I do have technichians that know all those things that I have forgotten(thank goodness) but I had to to be a smart A** and create one of my own answers. I am still smart enough never to do that again.
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