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Old 06-07-2008, 07:40 PM   #15
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Thank you all for the lubrication advice, hmmm, now I need to figure out how to get under it without it coming down on me. Guess it's time to work on those things. Know the selling dealer did not do it.
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Old 06-08-2008, 08:53 AM   #16
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Old- You can raise the coach w/the hydraulic leveling jacks, but that will not raise axles. I suggest going to a truck supply joint (some NAPA outlets have a truck side for example) to get some properly heavy duty jack stands. I like the screw type rather than the detent type, but that's just me.
Then raise the coach, slide your 12 ton bottle jack under axle & jack till it seats against frame. Adjust & slide jack stand under axle. Now you are ready to roll around on your creeper under the coach.
I have an RV slab next to my house that was purpose built. Make sure that house jacks and jack stands have good footing below so there isn't unplanned subsidence of the coach support while you monkey around below I hate that claustrophobic feeling of a 15 ton coach on my chest.
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Old 06-09-2008, 08:34 PM   #17
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I have the jack stands, and I think I have a 16 ton hyd jack as well. I will have to check. We have a nice dirveway, it's just not long enough, coach would stick out into the street about 8 feet. I could park a car near the front so traffic would have to miss it, and we don't get a lot. Will know more tomorrow after dealer calls me to schedule appointment to fix a few more things. Otherwise it at the storage place and that is rocks.
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Old 06-10-2008, 01:54 PM   #18
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Hello Old Rv'er:

I do not like to work hard anymore so I built four ramps out of 2X12's and 2X6's. The 2X12 is the base about 24" long and the 2X6 I use for cross grain over the 2X12 for strength. I made them three layers high to give me about 6" in height. I carry them to level the MH when I stop on uneven ground for the night. I also use them when I service the MH. I do chock the wheels for safety even in campgrounds when I use the ramps.

I have used from one to all four depending on how many corners of the coach need to be raised to level it. I also use the ramps when FMCA requires blocks under the jacks. They are a multi purpose tool with no lifting of the coach.
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Old 06-10-2008, 03:29 PM   #19
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I have 4 X 6 blocks, which I cut about 12" long, and then put "cut to fit" 3/8" plywood on the top and bottom, over the board, to keep them from warping and checking. These I put under the HWH jacks so they don't have to go down as far, and for stability. I carry 6 of them. I also chock the wheels, especially when rear are not on ground (brake is on those wheels)(wish it had air brakes around), and then let the HWH handle the leveling. If it's real uneven, I have some orange blocks (plastic) which I can drive up on. So far this seem to be all I have needed. We have only been on one trip so far, as who want to go camping when you have no hot water to shower with.
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Old 06-10-2008, 08:31 PM   #20
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Old Rv'er:

I never use the HWH system to lift the coach when I am going to work under it, that is why I built the ramps and drive the coach up on them. That way I feel safe while I am under the coach for service.

I carry additional blocks for HWH jacks if I level the coach with the ramps and even with air breaks I would use wheel chocks. Sometimes the HWH jacks to do not extend far enough to level the coach or they raise the tires off the ground which is not a good idea. When the front or rear tires are lifted off the ground with the HWH and not by the axel the only thing that holds them off the ground are the shock absorbers. If you allow the shock absorber to hold that much weight it could damage or break the shock absorber or mounting bolts.

I have not used the plastic blocks for driving on to level the coach and when you use blocks on the rear you should have blocks under both sets of tires.
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