Cummings NW in Portland, OR & Electrical Issues

[Old Rv'er]

All,
Took the coach to Cummings NW in Portland, Or to diagnose and repair the engine brake. Turned out WRV had switch the plugs between the Boost Switch and the Engine Brake, putting these connectors on the correct switch cured the problem. The technicians were 1st Class, and I felt like I was the most important vehicle in the shop. Friendly, professional, just perfect, they even let me assist by pushing switches, and turning on the key and such. It was a pleasent experience even though I had to pay them for the repair. They did lube my universal joints in the rear end for free.

Electical issues. Several people have remarked that my drivers side headlight is brighter than my passenger headlight (daytime running ligts use low beams), but tonight I went out and took a look at them, and they both look the same. I'm wondering if the wires being reversed in the above comment had any bearing on this? Tonight I went in the generator bay, to make sure the lights were grounded ok, to see if this was the issue, turned out everything is fine there.

So went into the tank bay (PS Aft of the Mid Door entry) and check that fuse panel for connections being loose. Low and behold several were including the ground lug from that fuse box to the chassis. I loosend it, scraped away some paint and reinstalled it. Tightned the hot side connection of the box, and put electircal anti corrision paste on some of those connections. Nothing serious on this fuse panel, and their is a guide on what those connections do.

Still have to reverse the fuel lines on the generator so it does not die when I start the main engine. If anyone has done this please let me know the procedure you followed. I'm going to use vice grip plyers to prevent fuel from leaking while I change them, since the main tank is quite full. Problem is I have to crawl under the beast again, very tight quarters in their.

[Old Rv'er]

All,
Took the coach to Cummings NW in Portland, Or to diagnose and repair the engine brake. Turned out WRV had switch the plugs between the Boost Switch and the Engine Brake, putting these connectors on the correct switch cured the problem. The technicians were 1st Class, and I felt like I was the most important vehicle in the shop. Friendly, professional, just perfect, they even let me assist by pushing switches, and turning on the key and such. It was a pleasent experience even though I had to pay them for the repair. They did lube my universal joints in the rear end for free.

Electical issues. Several people have remarked that my drivers side headlight is brighter than my passenger headlight (daytime running ligts use low beams), but tonight I went out and took a look at them, and they both look the same. I'm wondering if the wires being reversed in the above comment had any bearing on this? Tonight I went in the generator bay, to make sure the lights were grounded ok, to see if this was the issue, turned out everything is fine there.

So went into the tank bay (PS Aft of the Mid Door entry) and check that fuse panel for connections being loose. Low and behold several were including the ground lug from that fuse box to the chassis. I loosend it, scraped away some paint and reinstalled it. Tightned the hot side connection of the box, and put electircal anti corrision paste on some of those connections. Nothing serious on this fuse panel, and their is a guide on what those connections do.

Still have to reverse the fuel lines on the generator so it does not die when I start the main engine. If anyone has done this please let me know the procedure you followed. I'm going to use vice grip plyers to prevent fuel from leaking while I change them, since the main tank is quite full. Problem is I have to crawl under the beast again, very tight quarters in their.

[dgerstel]

Monty,

I would expect that the people who said one side looked brighter than other were not looking at each headlight at the same angle. The headlights on both of my coaches came from the factory out of adjustment and required me to do the final adjustments. The headlights are supplied power directly from the front Vansco module, from four separate outputs, LF High and low and RF high and low. The daytime running light function is just an output to one of these on each side at a reduced voltage. As to fuse guide, most of mine are not 100% correct, I still plan on fixing labels in the future.

[Old Scout]

I know this thread has been going for a while but are you sure the problem with yr genset is reversed fuel lines. If yr tank is currently near full and the genset is still stalling, I am more incline to think its the "code 27" compatibility issue between the Xantrex RS2000 inverter and yr genset. Work around is to disable the charger on the inverter before starting the MH engine. [note: the charger on the RS 2000 will Hot Start everytime you plug-in to shore power unless you disable the hot start function].
PS -- if you do disconnect the fuel lines, I'd go with a golf tee or cloth plug--I dont much like the idea of crushing the lines with a pliers.