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Old 03-13-2012, 03:12 PM   #1
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Cutting an access hole from bottom for back of Hydro Hot

I have a coolant leak in the hydro hot compartment. I read somewhere on the forum, but can't find it, where some of you had a fitting leak on the back of of the hydro hot. I know the holding tanks are behind it. How far up are the fittings on the hydro hot. I think it was a 5 X 10 hole and covered it with aluminum. Thinking about using battery 4 in skill saw set just to cut through the wood. Just don't like cutting through where I can't see. Thanks for your ideas.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:55 PM   #2
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Here it is:

Water leak @ Hydro-Hot
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Old 03-15-2012, 08:16 PM   #3
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Access hole might already be there

I have a 2009 36mdds and also had a leak at the back of the Aqua hot. A hole approx 4" by 12" was already cut into the hard flooring material then was covered over by the silver tarp like material. Just looking under neath the MH you can't see it at all. You can find the whole by pushing up with your hand. I hope you have this access hole, but don't khow when they started putting in. Probably right after Basil figured it out for them.

Good Luck
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:54 PM   #4
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I will push on it first. Maybe, I will be lucky. Thanks to both of you for the info.
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:01 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basil Shannon View Post
The link is missing one picture. I started cutting carefully at the drain hole in the bottom of the coach. once you get a small opening, you can better see what you're doing.
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:52 AM   #6
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FWIW - You could make two 4" round holes about 3" apart, then install two 4" deck plates (http://www.boatersworld.com/product/MP80813867.htm?bct=%3Bcicovers-biminis-seating%3Bcimaintenance-boat%3Bcihardware%3Bcihatches-deck-plates). Why these, first, once installed from below you then have a 4" hole which can be screw closed, and you will have two. Second, you can use a 4" hole saw to make the hole for them, and can be very careful with the hole saw since the floor material is only 1/2" or so thick. The catch is determining where to make those holes. I would make the "starter screw" on the hole saw only a little bit higher (less than ¼”) than the surface of the hole saw unit itself, so when it punches through it does not drill into anything else.

If possible, find a very small person who might be able to crawl on top of the HH unit and then make a starter hole in two places so you then know you won't hit anything when drilling out those holes.

FWIW#2 - I had to have my HH unit pulled to change the mixing valve, and kick myself to this day for not installing any access for the back of the unit. That job took all day to accomplish with two adults working on it. However, it should be noted, it also takes two people to change the mixing valve, so you don’t twist off/or over tighten the valve when installing the new one, because the copper pipe is very soft which goes inside the HH unit.
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:36 AM   #7
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This is one of those chores a decent boroscope will aid greatly.
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:45 PM   #8
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Hi all,
Just had to replace the heater type hoses from engine to back of Aqua hot on our 40 MDTS due to a rupture in the middle of nowhere, 25 miles to cell service. Ended up in having to pull the black tank as the easiest access. We then replaced the heater type hose from the Aqua hot to the rear bulhead where we installed a bulkhead fitting so when and if the engine hoses rupture again, they can be changed from the bulkhead to the engine while the hoses in the compartment should now last 20 years or so with no exposure to the elements. (We run in winter a lot) Just info we had to discover the hard way.
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