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Old 06-02-2014, 07:15 AM   #15
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I moved the ac condensor under the steps and put a electric fan on it. No more problems with hight temp on the ac. Also the engine temps went down because it kept the heat from the condensor and also opened up the radiator to more air.
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Old 06-02-2014, 01:11 PM   #16
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Good move MKelley--I am thinking about doing the same thing or just adding a secondary condensor. There is plenty of space behind the pass side fender with a mid-door.
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Old 06-12-2014, 07:00 PM   #17
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Ref: 2002 36FT FDDS, 350 Cummins w/150k miles

Old Scout, after two cans of dye and a lot of head scratching, the second repair facility was able to find the leak. They knew what had been done before, so went back to the condenser. Nothing positive until they removed the condenser. Noticed the area where two lines were attached between the radiator and condenser that had a large build up of dirt and grease. Cleaned off the area, and voila the dye and leak was discovered. Cleaned and replaced o rings.

FYI, after the repair, filled the system with 3.5 to 4 cans of freon. They ran the coach, and while running sprayed the condenser with water vs your box fan. At 80F the dash air was 60F. Let the system set until 1 PM, retested at 90F, same procedure , added freon to total 5.5 cans and the dash temp dropped to 50F. That is the same amount both companies feel was the correct amount of freon. I would guess Houston water temp is 70F vs box fan, for reference. So a 36 Ft coach should hold about 5.5 cans of freon, at the temp (above) if the condenser is cooled during the test.

I'll give it a workout this weekend to make sure everything is OK. Temps in the low 90's this weekend!

Source Manufacturing (541-935-0308 Jim or Scott) is the aftermarket company Radiator Specialist (916-381-4790) directed me towards.. Jim gave me a price of $457 + freight + one week manufacturing time for a "popular" Alpine replacement model #4969. Not sure if that is the correct number for mine.

Thanks for your help Old Scout, hope the info above helps others.

Bernie
Pearland, Tx
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:24 AM   #18
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Finding The Leak

Quote:
Originally Posted by BernieS View Post
RE: 2002 FDDS Alpine

A/C compressor went out, replaced, and checked entire system. No leaks up front or rear in the usual areas. Checked lines as much as possible, but system will still not hold freon.

Has anyone with an 02 had chaffing problems with the lines? If so what location?

Thanks

Bernie
Pearland, Tx.
Bernie,

I take it your visual inspection was thorough. No oil stains at any o-ring fittings or at the fitting where the metal meets the rubber hose. The condenser has no oil stains visible. Check all your shrader valve cores, they do go bad. Take the caps off and inspect the cap to make sure they are dry. If they are wet the core is bad.

The tech should use evacuate the system to make sure there isn't any freon. Then nitrogen test the system ie fill the system with dry air (nitrogen) to 90 psi. You do this by attaching your low psi coupler attached to your a/c gauges to the low side shrader valve. Then listen closely for the leak every where. If you have a UV light check the evaporator drain hose for die. If you have a leak detector sniff all hose fittings where the rubber meets the metal, and at the evaporator.

If the gauge holds the presure your compressor seal is probably the culprit; as the seal isn't going to leak until it is in use, but DO NOT RUN THE A/C SYSTEM WHEN NITROGEN TESTING THE SYSTEM.

If the gauge is loosing presure, and you don't hear the leak, take a mixture of either dish soap or Mr. Bubble and water in a spray bottle and start spraying your hose fittings where they are attached to the hose, your condenser, and expansion valve or block. Check your switches as well.

Good luck, let me know if you find the leak.

Robert
310-245-1853
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:38 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BernieS View Post
Ref: 2002 36FT FDDS, 350 Cummins w/150k miles

Old Scout, after two cans of dye and a lot of head scratching, the second repair facility was able to find the leak. They knew what had been done before, so went back to the condenser. Nothing positive until they removed the condenser. Noticed the area where two lines were attached between the radiator and condenser that had a large build up of dirt and grease. Cleaned off the area, and voila the dye and leak was discovered. Cleaned and replaced o rings.

FYI, after the repair, filled the system with 3.5 to 4 cans of freon. They ran the coach, and while running sprayed the condenser with water vs your box fan. At 80F the dash air was 60F. Let the system set until 1 PM, retested at 90F, same procedure , added freon to total 5.5 cans and the dash temp dropped to 50F. That is the same amount both companies feel was the correct amount of freon. I would guess Houston water temp is 70F vs box fan, for reference. So a 36 Ft coach should hold about 5.5 cans of freon, at the temp (above) if the condenser is cooled during the test.

I'll give it a workout this weekend to make sure everything is OK. Temps in the low 90's this weekend!

Source Manufacturing (541-935-0308 Jim or Scott) is the aftermarket company Radiator Specialist (916-381-4790) directed me towards.. Jim gave me a price of $457 + freight + one week manufacturing time for a "popular" Alpine replacement model #4969. Not sure if that is the correct number for mine.

Thanks for your help Old Scout, hope the info above helps others.

Bernie
Pearland, Tx
Bernie,

You used 5.5 cans of freon how many ounces per can. I have been trying to identify the required freon charge for a 2005 39' Alpine Coach. No info available, and don't want to overcharge the system.

Thankss
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:39 AM   #20
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Bernie,

You used 5.5 cans of freon how many ounces per can. I have been trying to identify the required freon charge for a 2005 39' Alpine Coach. No info available, and don't want to overcharge the system.

Thankss
What were your gauge readings as well.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:29 PM   #21
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At the risk of stating the obvious, I have learned [perhaps the hard way] that attacking an Automotive A/C issue with a can of 134a from Walmart is at best too simple an approach, and at worst, potentially danagerous. Even with a full gauge set, ambient temp charts, and inside thermometers to measure air temps difs, you are still making assumptions about the proper function and performance of your system. Unless you know the evap and cond coils are clean and air flow for both is good, the expansion valve is functioning properly, compressor oil content is correct, and there are no blockages in the system, you are really guessing. Even armed with "system capacity" and/or "proper gauge readings" , you are guessing. I still think you can DIY an A/C issue but to get it right--you need to combine, ambient temps with vent air temp differential and gauge pressures to truly understand when to STOP adding 134a to the system. I know--opinions can and will vary--I expect it on IRV2.
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Old 06-22-2014, 12:19 PM   #22
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Sorry I didn't respond sooner.

Rlwparker....they were 12 oz cans, I was not there to note the guages, etc. (Note Old Scouts posts about capacity).

Continuing story....after the last repair, the coach sat for two days and held freon. I Drove 300 miles, a/c worked fine heading east into the hot Texas sun! Parked 2.5 days, freon is history!

The techs checked for any dye, oil, etc signs....nothing. Next they opened up the basement area we could not inspect visually in the past. Everything was fine.
(Still one small area that is impossible to visually inspect). The whole system has been checked by two different techs at two different companies. Both indicated the system looks good? One shrader valve core was leaking and replaced earlier. Lines checked in the engine condition, etc. Soap and water used on the condenser also..

Robert, the techs are looking at you post/suggestions (thanks):

" The tech should use evacuate the system to make sure there isn't any freon. Then nitrogen test the system ie fill the system with dry air (nitrogen) to 90 psi. You do this by attaching your low psi coupler attached to your a/c gauges to the low side shrader valve. Then listen closely for the leak every where. If you have a UV light check the evaporator drain hose for die. If you have a leak detector sniff all hose fittings where the rubber meets the metal, and at the evaporator.

If the gauge holds the presure your compressor seal is probably the culprit; as the seal isn't going to leak until it is in use, but DO NOT RUN THE A/C SYSTEM WHEN NITROGEN TESTING THE SYSTEM.

I'm puzzled as to why the dash temp does not drop while I drove the 6 hours, and the system pressures are high? I purposely did not use the roof a/c to monitor the dash. Also the freon appears to be leaking faster, 2+ days this time. This is going to be one expensive "O ring or gasket"!

Thanks for all the help/suggestions!

Bernie
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Old 06-22-2014, 06:38 PM   #23
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I am only guessing but the leak is probably on the low pressure side of the system [ie, no leaks on the low side during ops as the pressure is less than 40-50 PSI. But when you shut off the system, the hi and low sides equalize to 90-100 or more PSI. Consequently, the low side cant stand the higher pressure and leaks]. Short of a defective hose, I cant imagine a hose chaffing leak. If not obvious, I would guess the evap coil in the dash, the hoses around/near the engine or the compressor itself [did you replace the compressor?--I forgot]....
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Old 06-23-2014, 09:38 PM   #24
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Ford motor Company supplied the condenser in mine, suspect if your gages are like a ford truck then that is the case in yours. You can also have radiator shop fix it, and use it again.
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:24 AM   #25
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Turned out to be the hoses going bad in the engine compartment. Replaced, now the system works fine.

Bernie
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:33 PM   #26
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Would this also be the case with our 2007? It starts out cold when starting the motor, but then blows hot air after the motor warms up. No one seems to be able to figure this out.
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:41 AM   #27
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My A/C system would loose all the freon in a few days, then not cool at all. Does not sound like your issue.

I am sure one of the more mechanically inclined members will jump in.

Good luck.

BernieS
02' 36 ft, 350, 162K miles
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:51 AM   #28
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Think BernieS has it right--your issues sounds more like the heater core control valve has failed and is letting hot coolant into the heater core--canceling the A/C cooling. In other words--its in windshield defrost mode all the time......
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