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Old 08-05-2014, 10:27 AM   #15
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Long-story--not enough room between condensor and side grill in current location to install electric fans......moving condensor is an option but involves new hoses and connections--if moving it, would prefer to target a clean air location in front of coach vs proximity to rear-end diesel.....so still "looking" at it......
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Old 08-15-2014, 08:47 AM   #16
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Just want to let everyone know how much help this has been, thanks. What I ended up doing, being from the KISS school of engineering, is install a Flex-a-lite fan model 108N between the condenser and the radiator grill, or what ever you call that thing. There's a gap of about 2 1/2" and the fan is 2 1/4" by 10" dia. and puts out 800 CFM. I mounted it to the grill, very secure. Then I ran a fused hot lead to the battery, ran a ground to the front of the coach and switched it with a lighted switch. Now when I turn on the AC I also turn on the fan. It's not automatic but I now have some control, headed for the southwest soon I'll let y'all know how I make out.
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:11 PM   #17
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You were lucky--I dont have the space between the grill and my condensor for a fan, soooooo....two options for auto wiring the new fan -- use the secondary sensor in the front fire wall to drive a relay or just piggy back on the A/C compressor clutch wire in the back to drive a relay--easy-peasy......
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Old 08-15-2014, 02:18 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
If the wax valve is working for the engine, is there a way to move the condenser? If you can move it from the radiator, inner cooler, and transmission cooler you'd reduce heat load on them and it's certainly easy enough to use an electric fan controlled by the power for the compressor electric clutch on a condenser fan.
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You were lucky--I dont have the space between the grill and my condensor for a fan, soooooo....two options for auto wiring the new fan -- use the secondary sensor in the front fire wall to drive a relay or just piggy back on the A/C compressor clutch wire in the back to drive a relay--easy-peasy......
That's what I said!! Using the energy of the A/C compressor clutch would turn the fan on when the A/C is operating, not full time like present set up.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:07 PM   #19
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Some compressor clutches cycle on and off to prevent freezing the evaporator coils, if this cycling happens frequently, it would be annoying to have the condenser fan going on and off as well. Perhaps better to trigger off the blower fan in the dash.... Assuming you don't use dash heat....

Or there are high pressure switches made to trigger condenser fans only when ram air flow is insufficient and high side pressures reach a set point.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:32 PM   #20
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Some compressor clutches cycle on and off to prevent freezing the evaporator coils, if this cycling happens frequently, it would be annoying to have the condenser fan going on and off as well. Perhaps better to trigger off the blower fan in the dash.... Assuming you don't use dash heat....

Or there are high pressure switches made to trigger condenser fans only when ram air flow is insufficient and high side pressures reach a set point.
You're making a simple solution complicated. Most non-computer autos had the electric clutch in the compressor switching condenser fans on and off. Plus, remember, all this in a diesel pusher is happening 30-40' behind the driver. You'd never know a 10" electric fan was on or off with all the racket of the diesel. turbo, and the radiator fan. (when it's running)
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:34 PM   #21
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Your high pressure switch is only a safety switch that activates when your system pressure rises above a set point. This protects your system from explosion and or possible component damage.

Your issue would lead me to explore first a blockage issue, a receiver dryer replacement could be in order.

Yes an additional electric fan would help, and is suggested where it can be installed. The additional air flow across your condenser works wonders to increase the efficiency any HVAC system, be it automotive, or stationary.

Be sure to keep your condenser clean and free of debris. A dirty condenser causes the system to work harder to dissipate the collected heat, hence high, high side pressures noted.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:41 PM   #22
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Dt--need to read the whole thread--BF is developing a great knowledge of our unique Alpine dash A/C system. As mentioned earlier, the Acme auto dash A/C system in our early model coaches actually has a secondary freon pressure switch [not use by WRV] that was designed to control aux electric fans....Keep up the good work BF, we'll have to get you an honorary Alpiner t-shirt yet.......
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:42 PM   #23
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Gee, I've been so wrong so far. If many Alpine owners have the attitude of, "You can't help me 'cause you don't know our RV." I really wouldn't want a T-shirt.
I, like the OP, believe in K.I.S.S. (Keep It Short, Simple) Why add "electronic solenoid control valves that shock the fan shaft" when a proper wax valve works?

Why run a wire from a pressure sensor at the front of the RV back to the electric fan when a 5-6' piece of wire from the condenser clutch will do the job?

In addition, the OP FOUND the room to add an electric fan after I was told there's no room for a fan. Maybe someone should turn their shirt inside out.
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Old 08-15-2014, 09:05 PM   #24
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Bob, that wasnt my point at all---if you reread it, I think you will see that I was complimenting you and correcting the previous input....sorry about that ..... your t-shirt is in the mail--cheers.......
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