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Old 09-17-2005, 08:41 PM   #15
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I had the same problem. Saddleback replaced the solenoid and installed an Echocharger. That was the WRV recommended fix.
A stuck or nonfunctioning solenoid seems to be a common problem. I am also in covered storage with no plug in so a solar panel woild not work.
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Old 09-18-2005, 05:23 AM   #16
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Mike, mine like Wayne's is in a black box on the firewall behind the batteries. Also an 05. WRV supplied me with a new HD solenoid.
Cole Hersee # 24059-08. This new solenoid has so far corrected all of my problems with the coach battteries. My dash gauge indicates the reading in the coach batteries stays about 13.6 volts constantly.

Ted
Alpine 34' 2005
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Old 09-18-2005, 10:29 AM   #17
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Thanks all. It's working at this moment. I plugged into shore, which cycled the solenoid & it snapped closed. Tho it ran up to >130 degrees, so I suspect the contacts are arcing. I'll call WRV tomorrow for a less fire prone fix. Mike
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Old 09-18-2005, 01:32 PM   #18
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It may take some time, but you could jumper across the solenoid to charge the chassis batteries.
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Old 09-19-2005, 12:08 PM   #19
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Not sure what happened that the solenoid didn't contact, but it had to happen for several consecutive days. Parasitic draw from chassis batt's is only 0.7-1.4 amps, or about 24 amp hours/day w/everything off. Couldn't tell you why it varies that much or what is drawing, but I took several readings yesterday evening all at 0.7-0.8 amps, and one this a.m. before the sun was on the solar panels at 1.4-1.5 amps. At that rate it'd take about 2 amps for 12 hours of sun to keep chassis batt's topped off. Solar is supposed to make 100 watts/13.5 volts or 7.4 amps/hour max, probably 6 or so average over 12 hours; I haven't amp-probed the panels but will today. And then I'll probe the house batt draw for drill. The solar should keep both sets of batt's going indefinitely as long as my only active appliance is the fridge on propane. Chassis batt's were down to 3.2V when I caught it.

The way I revived the solenoid was to charge the chassis batt's @ 14.4V w/a stand-alone 110V charger. After a few hours the solenoid contacted, but it still runs hot. Could be that bad thru-amperage in the solenoid is the culprit due to burned contacts; that would explain both the dead chassis batt's (solar appears to go direct to the house batt's, but needs the solenoid on to charge chassis) and the heat generation.
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Old 09-19-2005, 02:15 PM   #20
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Just talked w/WRV, Leslie the coach-care angel, who put the solenoid on order. Part # per post above.
She informs me the solenoid needs to be installed w/the terminals up, rather than terminals down. Mine is installed w/terminals down, which looks perfectly correct, but apparently isn't.

I think I'll invert the oldie tonight, since it apparently has some life left in it, and hopefully that will last till the new one "on order" comes in. I asked her to take the factory tour & swipe one while nobody was looking , but apparently service can't have manufacturing's parts. There must be an exception to that during a coach pick-up, as we got replacement AC's, new fridge door, etc. while slogging our way thru PDI, but once you are out the door- tough cookies.
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Old 10-05-2005, 11:34 AM   #21
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I had the same problem and it was the interconnect controller back there by the batteries. It is down low behind clear plastic cover.
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Old 10-10-2005, 05:53 AM   #22
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The scoop on the '05/'06 is (maybe this helps w/an '04?):
1) Solar charges the house batt's.
2) If/when the house batt's hit a specific charge voltage (~13.3 IIRC) the solenoid kicks on to also charge the chassis batt's.
3) The 05's had a solenoid that had a high failure rate. That was cured some time into the 06 production w/the Cole Hersee #24059-08. FYI, the "-08" designation is for the UL/marine rated version of the 24059, which comes rated to 85 amps w/out the UL/marine, & 65 amps continuous per the label when UL/marine rated.
4) The Auto-Gen-Start package automatically starts the gen when house batt's reach 11.5V. Funny thing- () if the chassis batt's (which start the gen) have dropped too low, while the house batt's get nearly but not quite topped off & therefore slowly discharge to <11.5, the AGS will send a useless signal to the dead gen to start & charge up.

For those who are boondocking in temparate climate & don't have the residential fridge (or have coach in storage), it would seem more appropriate to me to initiate the AGS charge w/chassis batt's then kick over to house, since the gen will start & charge all before it's starting energy is drained & you won't have Didn't Start... . Maybe its just my bad calculus but I figger that more Alpine's sit for periods in storage getting "Didn't Start...", than sit w/residential fridge running while not hooked up to shore power.
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Old 10-10-2005, 09:13 AM   #23
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Add me to the list...

Got the solenoid, but my 04 uses a different device (looks like a black controller box).

Had the 100W solar panel installed at the factory, but I have no idea how it's wired and whether the original panel was "daisy-chained" to the new panel.
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