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Old 08-29-2011, 05:52 AM   #15
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Thanks guys!

Sammie & Jim
Thanks you so much for the info. I have gotten the fridge out of the MH and into my garage. I have downloaded the instructions from David Force and ordered the cooling unit (Dometic RM 2804) and I'm waiting for it to arrive. Thanks for the video, that is very helpful!! I have a friend to help. It doesn't look like rocket science, what could happen??
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Old 08-29-2011, 06:25 PM   #16
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Tyler, Glad I could help.

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Old 08-30-2011, 05:11 PM   #17
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Second Update:

The replacement cooling unit is now supposed to be delivered to San Diego by Thursday. I intend to observe the entire replacement project and document with photos.

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Old 08-30-2011, 08:02 PM   #18
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Nice stuff to know if and when we ever need it ourselves. That is why I contacted them about the Amish unit, just in case I need it I wanted to know the part number and have it ready on the road.
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Old 08-30-2011, 08:22 PM   #19
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Monty, I am new to all this, but have an 2006 monaco windsor with the nocold 1200. I had to have the circuit board replaced because it would not reset. My tech said it is ok now but it will only get down to 47 degrees in the bottom . Makes ice and freezer seems ok. What do you think is wrong? Thanks Vanagon41
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:51 PM   #20
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Going to make some assumptions, (don't make a**s out of me please), does it do the same thing on gas versus 120V operation?

Have you got the fridge set to the coldest setting on the thermostat?

In the cooling unit (outside of the coach), reach in (looking at it from the outside which is "the back" of the unit - on the right side) and feel the combustion stack and then check the left side of the cooling unit, and between the two sides there should be some difference in temperature (both should be very warm, but not so hot as to burn you), if the stack (right side which is where the electric element/gas burner are) is very hot, and the left side (returning ammonia gas/water mixture) is lots cooler, or even cold, then the unit is partially or almost fully blocked, if the temps on the right side very hot, left side cold, it's fully blocked in the fridge side, but the freezer would not work then so that cannot be it, based on what you say. It should be from 32 at its coldest to around 40 at its warmest, so something is going on. If the temp control calls for it to light/electric to go on, then its thermostat is working ok. Try turning off the gas and unplugging AC, then see if it tries to light on gas three times, if so the board is working. Then there is a thermistor on some models, it might be a little thing just on the cooling fins inside the fridge, one way makes it cooler, the other way warms it up if you have that experiment with it and see if it gets colder. The optimum temp at the bottom of the unit should be 35-39 or so degrees. If looking around the back of the unit, and you see, either pink or yellow residue the cooling unit is leaking ammonia and hydrogen gas, turn it off and don’t use it again period, as fire or an explosion could occur. And that condition is what the recall is supposed to monitor, not fix, the recall does only one thing, shuts down the refer so it won’t start again until the cooling unit is replaced. And here is the link to the owner’s manual: 1200 Series

And now you know why I don't like RV refers and its associated technology as it is way too complicated for the amount of cooling you get. If it needs to be repaired again, read my post above and then talk to a good shop about changing it to a residential unit, you will be way happier. Depending on where you are I have a recommendation for a cabinet shop who does this type of replacement all the time, and they are near Coburg, OR, which is maybe where your rig was manufactured anyway.
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:26 AM   #21
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Cyclist- Thanks in advance for the photos. If you can add a little verbal explanation as well, and wrap it in a word doc, we can put it in the Tech Library for future needy owners. Mike
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:21 AM   #22
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vanagon41, with temperatures your experiencing in Texas this summer you may need some help as posted in this thread.
Read the links within the thread also.
On your 1200 you have two fans that should be going on in rear of fridge continuously in the heat of the day.
On cool evenings you may hear them cycle off and on.
A quick fix is put a 110v fan blowing up through your fridge vent space and see if your box temps begin to fall after a while.
If your on gas operation keep fan away from right side of vent opening, favor the left side.
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Old 08-31-2011, 03:46 PM   #23
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OK , I have it on the coolest setting, same thing on LP or AC. I have added a fan in the back. I checked the coils in the back, top on both sides are almost cool, bottom of coils both sides are hot, cannot keep hands on too long. I heard once that you can take the fridg out an I beleive turn it upside down?? Thanks for your help!
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:13 AM   #24
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Sometimes turning it over on it's back helps, but if it's partially blocked it won't last long, they are heavy, and generally it is a long shot. Sounds like it's partially blocked.

However, one thing the dealers wont tell you, nor will the manual stress it much, but the refer needs to be bubble in the middle level, on the freezer shelf, either the top one or bottom one if the top one is an ice maker. When I say level, I mean the bubble is right smack dab in the middle of the level area. Not close to one side, not almost level, right on the money level, and then they might last 10 years. A residential refer can be out of level some and it wont be hurt, since it's a pressure system. A RV type is a gravity system, hence the better the level the better it works. So you have a 06 rig, that means it's coming up on 6 years old as it most likely was purchased in 05 by the manfacturer. To replace it, the Norcold 1210LR was priced retail at 3005.00 at a major Parts Place, and that does not include the labor. You can get a top of the line residental refer, with the cabinet work and stuff in, for around 2000,to 2500 or so, so going the other way might save you 1000 dollars. If yo are handy with wood working and understand getting 120V to the new one from the inverter side of the electrical system, you will save yourself a ton of labor money. If not, then I can recommend a great RV cabinet shop in Junction City, OR, who does this type of replacement all the time, send me a personal message if you are interested.
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:43 AM   #25
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Thanks again Monty for your help, I think I will go ahead and replace it with a reg. fridg. I can do most of the work myself. 22 years in the US Army Helicopters and airplanes, 18 years as an A&P mechanic/ Inspector with Continental Airlines so I'll let you know how it goes. Keep it between the lines and God Bless, Bob and Rita.
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Old 09-01-2011, 01:05 AM   #26
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Good luck, keep lots of pictures, and then post them when you are done, so we can all see the work. It won't be too bad, except, you might have to take out the big window to get the new refer inside, but that would depend on if you have a high roof line or not.
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Old 09-07-2011, 06:31 AM   #27
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update on cooling unit

Just an update for me here

I received the cooling unit from the Amish cooling unit place and have successfully installed it. I had never done it before but my friend and I managed to remove the fridge from the motor home, remove the old cooling unit, install the rebuilt unit, and successfully test it on both gas and electric and have reinstalled it in the motor home. It took about 3 hours to install the new cooling unit, following the directions I downloaded. It was not very difficult. The hardest part was prying the old unit out. Total cost $495 + $45 shipping - $100 rebate (when you send back the old broken cooling unit) = $440.The fridge and freezer are getting ice cold. It is the 8 cubic foot size without an ice maker (Dometic 2804). The cooling unit looks well built and is silent while running. I got a 3 year warranty on cooling issues and a 5 year leak warranty. I'm happy with that.
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Old 09-28-2011, 04:36 PM   #28
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Final update:

New cooling unit arrived Thursday at 1:30 PM. I needed the rig back and on the road by mid-day Friday. RV Specialists said they would try to have it done but no guarantee. I offered to pay the tech overtime and they agreed. The new cooling unit was installed and completed by 9 PM Thursday night. I stayed with the tech to help and took pictures. After the refrigerator was fired up and documented as operational, I was back on the road to Cuyamaca Rancho State Park (my camp hosting job) by 2 PM. RV Specialists did an outstanding job and my extended warantee picked up the cost. I had to pay $50 plus $300 for the overtime.

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