You can get AC only refrigerators.. IN fact both Dometic and Norcold make 'em for RV use.. There are two types.
1:Standard House Types (Please do not buy LG brand) These consume between 100 and 1000 watts when running
2: Dometic/Norcold "Low power" these work as well as the standard house brands, better than LG, and draw at most a great whomping 50 watts, Usually less
I have a chest freezer, about 1 1/1 the size of the freezer in my Dometic fridge, it draws a grand 36 watts (yes, 3 amps at 12 volt) when running... Runs all night along with the furnace and assorted other stuff on my U-2200's (just 2 of those)
http://www.thetford.com/HOME/Product...7/Default.aspx
Dometic low power fridge
Now, that said: If you convert to all electric you are limited to 50 amp sites, and may find that's not enough, you may have to kill an air conditioner or two when cooking. I would keep the propane stuff in case you find yourself on a 30 amp site.
That said.. I do use electric as much as possible, I have a single burner electric in the kitchen now and a dual burner in the "Basement" for when it's needed.
I also have an electric Grill... currently in storage... but I may basement it when I get fully orginized. I like my Coleman though too much to make that a priority
The Coleman Grill I have (Also propane) runs off the house tank by means of a Marshall Brass "Extend-a-Stay"
Yes, I know the Extend-a-stay is so you can use an external tank to heat/cook the motor home. but it also has the tap for use of an external grill like the "Extend-a-flow" It does both jobs, and does them very well, it also adds a layer of safety (Excess flow cut off) to the system.