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Old 06-12-2008, 07:34 PM   #1
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Does anyone have, or know where I can obtain a copy of the electrical wireing diagram for the chassis of a 2003 Alpine? My engine shuts down occasionally when I am coming to a stop. My mechanic says he thinks it's an electrical problem and it would save a lot of time (and money) if he had the diagram. Thanks.
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Old 06-12-2008, 07:34 PM   #2
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Does anyone have, or know where I can obtain a copy of the electrical wireing diagram for the chassis of a 2003 Alpine? My engine shuts down occasionally when I am coming to a stop. My mechanic says he thinks it's an electrical problem and it would save a lot of time (and money) if he had the diagram. Thanks.
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Old 06-12-2008, 09:36 PM   #3
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I doubt the diagram would help. Sounds like an intermittent, probably a loose or dirty ground. The diagram will show what's supposed to be, could be used to give the tech a leisurely education, then the tech will just wind up checking the wiring starting w/grounds, then hots, then looking for chaffing and loose plugs. If the problem is one of those, all that education time (on your dime) is wasted.

Ask the tech if he has the software to read computer codes and see if there are any stored trouble or pending codes; this doesn't take much time. If he can, there may be a clue there; if he can't, then IMO that's your clue you need a new tech.
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Old 06-13-2008, 10:28 AM   #4
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Thanks. I've had the computer codes read at 3 different Cummins facilities. That hasn't helped. I guess I'll bite the bullet and let the mechanic check the wiring.
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Old 06-16-2008, 09:57 PM   #5
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I will echo the other comments, you have a bad ground, most likely a negative cable not keeping contact. If cummings cannot find a code, it's electrical, in the engine electrical circuit someplace. Should be easy to tackle, if you check all the wires. Loose wires are a notorious problem in these motorhomes, half the ones I have checked were not tight. This goes for the 110V side of the house as well.
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Old 06-21-2008, 05:09 PM   #6
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Old Rv'er: I have an '03 36FDDS and reading many of your comments and seeing your openess to help others I wanted to direct this to you for your thoughts. A few days ago the horn stuck while at the same time the cruise control quit engaging and then I found yesterday that after I turned on the wipers and went to turn them off the horn started to blow non stop again. I live in the Chicago area an am trying to find a direction understanding it may be the wire harness..........Any thoughts?
Thanks Rexx
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Old 06-21-2008, 05:35 PM   #7
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Cut the wires
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Old 06-21-2008, 05:38 PM   #8
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I have had the problem with the wipres and horn. This is normally a problem with the contacts for the smart wheel.

You can access the contacts by taking the cover off of the steering column just below the wheel. There will be two contacts that need to be cleaned. It is a very easy fix.
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Old 06-21-2008, 09:03 PM   #9
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Hello,
I would have thought something went to ground inside the steering column, but the easier fix is the one suggested below. Engineer Mike, is the "man", and I hope he contributs to this question, because I would just start taking it apart, not knowing what was causing the problem, but my gut feeling is a wire worn down, to the point of going to ground. The contacts idea however makes more sense.
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Old 06-22-2008, 09:33 PM   #10
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I had the same problem with the horn and the wipers sticking in the on position. After a few hours of troouble shooting I found that when my satelite was installed they tapped into the 12V+ source of the Car stereo circuit. After crawling onto the roof I found that the 12V+ wire that was going to the satelite had been cut or never hooked up and was shorting out the Car stereo circuit. I would not think this would have any impact on the smart wheel fncionality but WRV wired the control box into the same Car stereo circuit, so every time the tapped satelite wire would short out in the rain it was causing the smartwheel control unit to loose power and do very odd things like lock my horn on, strobe my head lights left to right, and lock my windshield wipers on. I resolved this problem by cutting the satelite 12v lead which was not hooked up anyway. I am not sure why the satelite would need 12V since I cannot watch TV without 110V anyhow.
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:55 PM   #11
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I'm still trying to find out why my 2003 Alpine shuts down occasionally when I am coming to a stop. I've checked (and had mechanics check) for bad grounds. I found and fixed one, but the problem persists. I'll continue searching for loose connections but wonder if it could be a bad relay switch. It would sure be nice to find a circuit diagram.
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Old 07-15-2008, 09:05 PM   #12
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Go to: http://www.alpinecoachassociation.com/

See if they have it posted someplace, if you find it, please join the ACA, as many folks have taken a lot of their own time to put this stuff together and make if available. That is if you are not a member already, if so great.
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Old 07-17-2008, 09:43 AM   #13
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SRAlpine - you might want to consider this. There is a 9 pin connector that goes through the front bulkhead on the driver's side (I think, as I never saw it).

Several years ago, we had the transmission drop into the safe mode. The Cummins tech (Biloxi, Ms) found a bad pin connection - made up poorly in the factory - that gave us intermittent problems with the transmission. It would jump out of gear or kick out of cruise for apparently no good reason.

Thinking back, it happened once after going slowly over railroad tracks and on I-10 after going over a bunch of bumps after crossing over into Mississippi.

The transmission went into safe mode - 50 mph no matter how hard you floored it. We had it towed, but the next morning the tech said you could have safely driven in.

He had trouble finding the fault. He got a faxed copy of an electrical diagram from WRV, unlike any in the manual. There is a dedicated black wire (probably 10 ga) from the transmission to the ground terminal on the chassis batteries. That was ok.

He was an ex C-130 electrical tech so that was probably an advantage. He poked around and found the bulkhead connector was the problem. His meter would flicker when he wiggled the connector, if I remember right. He said it is a through-the-bulkhead type. (If I recall correctly, it was made in Germany.) Anyhow, it was made up with a loose pin connection.

Hope this helps. (This came to me this morning while out walking. I had read this thread again last night. Amazing what your mind can do when you're out walking around in God's beautiful creation.)

/Fred
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