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Old 01-09-2010, 05:05 PM   #15
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Ok, I spoke too soon.

The circuits in the coach that weren't working when the inverter was having problems are back up and running after the rewire. However, the inverter is still showing a fault, the same fault it had before.

The other weird thing is that the 110v lights seem to be pulsing a bit, where they didn't do that before. I hear the transfer switch clicking and that is when the coach lights up.

So if I understand properly, the inverter is just allowing power to go through it, but nothing else. Well, I guess it would also charge the batteries.

The only time it truly "inverts" is when the coach is running off of batteries or the the inverter is converting 110vac to 12vdc (a transformer then) to charge the batteries.

So if I only wanted to operate on shore power, I could bypass the input and the output of the inverter and connect them directly. That way I would at least be up and running and all that wouldn't work would be the battery charger.

Am I understanding this correctly?

GT
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Old 01-09-2010, 06:14 PM   #16
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I bypassed the inverter as I mentioned in the last post and it (the bypass that is) works fine. I now have electricity in the entire coach.

I'm fairly certain that the furnace works off of batteries since it was still running when I had no shore power. So, that will drain the batteries quite quickly.

So now I have another question. What is the purpose of the inverter. If I understand correctly, it is to power the coach with no other sources of power (i.e. generator or shore) right? I've had my coach one year and 22,000 miles and I have never used the inverter. Never.

So, since my inverter is probably bad, I'm thinking that I don't need it. I just need a way to keep a charge on my batteries right?

GT
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Old 01-09-2010, 06:50 PM   #17
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You could go that route permanently, tho it'll be problematic for resale as anybody looking for this level coach is expecting to boondock w/120V available for various uses.

The "inverter" is both the battery charger and inverter function. You could probably get by on 10A of battery charger or so to top off after running the furnace fan and other 12V draws (fridge and some other junk may draw 12V in small amounts to keep things alive). But IIWMI'd do some further diagnosis on the inverter, the connections, inverter xfer switch, etc. and see if I could rehab the old unit.
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:54 PM   #18
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GTHill,

As temporary workaround, you could buy a 3 stage charger to use for keeping your house and chassis batteries charged. Also, this is great to carry for an emergency charging situation. I have one I bought about 1 1/2 years ago at Home Depot. It is Husky model HSK1084HD. I think I paid less than $100 for this charger.

I don't know if Home Depot still carries this model, but the key is that it is a 3 stage charger with functions similar to the charging function of the Xantrex(Heart) Inverter/Charger. You plug the Husky charger into the park 120 volt AC, then attach the cable clamps to the positive and negative poles of your set of batteries. Once those batteries are fully charged, then the HSK1084HD settles down to the Stage 3 Float charging, so that the batteries are not overcharged. Any similar smart 3 stage charger with a stage 3 float function should work.

See this link for the manual for the HSK1084HD:
http://powertool.manualsonline.com/m...cfb52cfbf2.pdf
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Old 01-09-2010, 10:30 PM   #19
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Thanks for the replies. I have a charger on it now. I'm going to limp along until Monday and maybe I can give Xantrex a call and see what they have to say. Maybe there is a service tech somewhere in my area. An exact replacement is about $1150 and that isn't something I'd like to spend my money on right now.



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Old 01-09-2010, 11:45 PM   #20
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I know an individual who has several Zantrex RS2000 that came from the WRV auction. I am waiting for permission from the owner to release his name and phone number. I have asked him to let me know prior DRR if he wishes to sell the units.
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:32 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Rod View Post
I know an individual who has several Zantrex RS2000 that came from the WRV auction. I am waiting for permission from the owner to release his name and phone number. I have asked him to let me know prior DRR if he wishes to sell the units.

I appreciate the thought!

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Old 01-10-2010, 08:48 AM   #22
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Sounds like you are back on track but would encouarge you to conduct a complete inspection of your coach wiring--both 12 and 120Vs [understanding you dont have access to everything]. Chances are either the lugs or the twist caps in the inverter were loose and your electric heater draw caused the failure. The transfer switch, surge protector (if you have one), all the connections in the breaker boxes/fuses, and the generator and its feed line, all have similar lugs/twist caps that need to be checked.... Connections in the 120V junctions boxes in the bedroom and kitchen are also known to work loose...
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Old 01-10-2010, 09:00 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
Sounds like you are back on track but would encouarge you to conduct a complete inspection of your coach wiring--both 12 and 120Vs [understanding you dont have access to everything]. Chances are either the lugs or the twist caps in the inverter were loose and your electric heater draw caused the failure. The transfer switch, surge protector (if you have one), all the connections in the breaker boxes/fuses, and the generator and its feed line, all have similar lugs/twist caps that need to be checked.... Connections in the 120V junctions boxes in the bedroom and kitchen are also known to work loose...
Thank you very much for the sound advice. What is a transfer switch? Is that the switch in the inverter or the "clunk" sound I hear when the generator power the coach?

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Old 01-10-2010, 09:14 AM   #24
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Its the "clunk" you hear whenever you power up--genset or shorepower. The t-box is about 10x10 inchs, and is generally located "amidships" on the basement ceiling [under kitchen floor].
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:11 AM   #25
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GT:

I have been down this route before, exactly. You can read through my old threads.

The Heart Interface was put out by Xantrex in our year coach. It is a modified sine wave and pure junk. Modified sine waves ruin electronic equipment including the refrigerator, convection oven, TV's, computers, DVD players, radios, VCRs, satellite dishes, etc. DITCH IT!

I mounted a new RS3000 between the rails just up from the original location. It sits on two "L" brackets spanning the rails, plenty of ventilation, no re-wiring. I was able to reclaim space by removing the old panel that hid the old one.

No, it is not cheap. It will also require a new control panel and if desired (and recommended) a new Automatic Generator Starter (AGS). With this and new AGMs, your problems will be ancient history. Shop around on the Internet. I found an $800 difference between vendors on the total package.

You will likely want the keep an inverter, lest you own only a giant aluminum tent. It will charge your batteries, manage your energy use, allow extended use of your (soon to be larger) battery bank and allow you to boondock (even if only occasionally). I cannot imagine camping and traveling without it.

You have two transfer switches. One in the inverter (I 've never really heard it), and one midship between the rails, behind the water tank, hanging oddly from the ceiling (required suspension angle). That one goes "clunk". Yes, check all the connections, the do vibrate loose.

BTW once you smell the "Magic Smoke" from your inverter, cast is away from your life. Nothing good will become of it.

Sorry I did not answer sooner, I could have probably saved you some time and at least commiserated in your grief. (Been there...)
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Old 03-19-2010, 01:00 PM   #26
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So glad you have it all fixed. "Learning" can be a very tiring, brutal, and expensive experience but it is vital for remembering just how you got there.

Happy motoring.

Jim '03 38'FDTS.
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:50 AM   #27
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GTHill; Although I don't have an Alpine I just recently had the same problem after running two 1500 watt heaters. My wiring also burned and melted the wire nuts. My thoughts are that over time the connections at the wire nuts loosen due to vibration. With the heavy load of the heaters the current draw heats up the wires until they melt. My solution was to solder all connections and tape them eliminating any wire nuts. We have been out for about a month now still using both heaters with no problem.
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Old 03-20-2010, 11:36 AM   #28
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Regarding "location by smell"

I have found that all electronic devices operate on something called "Magic Smoke"
I know this because whenever one lets the magic smoke out of the box then the device stops working

Magic smoke has a very strong odor

Moral: New inverter time
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