Electrical Transfer Switch

[OldForester]

Based on the comments of others on this forum about loose wires in the electrical transfer switch, I had ours checked at our dealer's to see if it was a potential issue waiting to happen.

Our favorite mechanic at our dealer's, who we know well and trust, looked at it and found almost every wire was loose or almost finger-tight and the neutral leads could be pulled in and out with very little to almost no exertion. This is like deja vu with so many of the other comments on the forum.

His view is that we were on the cusp of a transfer switch meltdown and we're very fortunate we looked at it when we did, and got the leads tightened to where they should be.

I'm only bringing this up because those with 05/06 coaches who haven't had a transfer switch issue and haven't checked their switch probably should do so before you have an unpleasant surprise (think of it like a recall that probably should have been done by the factory but now you get to pay for it). I'm sure glad we checked ours.

My guess this is one of those places in the WRV manufacturing process where they temporarily hooked up the leads, checked the circuits, and didn't have the step in their quality process that told them to go back and tighten the leads.

[OldForester]

Based on the comments of others on this forum about loose wires in the electrical transfer switch, I had ours checked at our dealer's to see if it was a potential issue waiting to happen.

Our favorite mechanic at our dealer's, who we know well and trust, looked at it and found almost every wire was loose or almost finger-tight and the neutral leads could be pulled in and out with very little to almost no exertion. This is like deja vu with so many of the other comments on the forum.

His view is that we were on the cusp of a transfer switch meltdown and we're very fortunate we looked at it when we did, and got the leads tightened to where they should be.

I'm only bringing this up because those with 05/06 coaches who haven't had a transfer switch issue and haven't checked their switch probably should do so before you have an unpleasant surprise (think of it like a recall that probably should have been done by the factory but now you get to pay for it). I'm sure glad we checked ours.

My guess this is one of those places in the WRV manufacturing process where they temporarily hooked up the leads, checked the circuits, and didn't have the step in their quality process that told them to go back and tighten the leads.

[jerry davis]

Where would this transfer switch be located on an 05 36'FDDS

[Dale777]

Jerry & Judy

On my 2006, the transfer switch is located near the ceiling at the rear of the basement between the frame rails.

[Retiredfields]

While I was trying to figure out why my generator slide was having a hard time extending, I opened the electrical junction box mounted above the generator. Like others have posted, the #6 wires were twisted together with wire nuts (red) which are too small. They pulled right off. I re-attached the four pairs of wires with the proper size wire nuts, backed up with electrical tape. I would encourage everyone to check those connections.

If the generator slide won't extend, then you can't put fuel in the tank. Mine was sticking right at the start of the extend cycle. On closer inspection, WRV designed a "cheesy" locking mechanism to hold the slide in when closed. I lubed the mechanism, and all the slide rollers, which helped resolve my problem.

It's still a poor design though, and looks like it could fail completely in the future.

[Old Rv'er]

Hmmm, thought I did this, now not so sure based on location in earlier post. Genset electrical stuff on to-do list. But did grease the worm screw drive and rollers on gen slide already, and will do this about once a month, when I do light maintenance, slide seal maintenance that kind of stuff.

Old Rv'er
2007 Alpine APEX

[Old Rv'er]

Oh, think some copper lugs might be better than wire nuts, with Scotch 23, then electrical tape 88 on top of that. The lugs won't let go, the 23 offers waterproofing, and the 88 keeps it all tight. Will have to take a look first to see what I am up agains, glad there is a Home Depot just up the street from where we store rig when not in use. Hope there is enough room in that box.

[Ted III]

Jerry, Ditto on Dale Dowdy's comment on the location of the transfer box. It is no problem to get to. Just empty entire back end of your basement, slide upside down on your back to about the middle of the coach and look up. You should be staring at the box. I believe my box was made by "Lytron" with either Allen Bradley or Furnas contactors. Whatever they are I bought replacements after mine went bye bye.

[Retiredfields]

Old Rv'er,

The junction box is small. Don't beleive you will be able to use lugs. Not enough room.

Ken

[SteveS]

Junction box is above the genset and transfer switch is rear of basement, between rails (basement ceiling) on my 2001 also. WRV seems to have kept these locations constant over the years.

[EngineerMike]

Old- properly sized wire nuts should fill the bill. Aside from initial installation related problems, these connections don't seem to give anybody problems. There may be a bit of an argument to use wire nuts for wet locations (that come w/sealant inside) which are available from that handy HD, but that's probably overkill. Main issue is close attention to strip length @ connections and proper strain relief on the connecting flex-conduit.

[bigfish]

Wire nuts are dependable electrical connectors. The key is to use the correct size wire nuts for the combination of total wires & wire sizes to be connected along with proper strip length of conductors. Additional consideration is the use of connectors rated for environmental conditions. If the connector is to be exposed to moisture or direct burial, wire nuts w/sealant should be used. Personal preference is the Ideal Twister® connectors. These connectors not only have the wings for finger grip leverage but also have a heagonal shape that allows use of a nutdriver for a firmer connection.

My coach has the Technology Research Corp (TRC) Surge Guard xfer switch model 40250. This unit is mounted midship on baement ceiling and has the Cutler-Hammer contactors.
BTF

[dgerstel]

The transfer switch on the Apex's and SE's are behind the door in the service bay. As I posted before, I found the wires in mine stripped to short and not connected well. I took them all loose, stripped them properly and soldered the ends before reattaching and properly tightening them.




Wires from the generator.




Wires from the main power cord.

Dale

[Old Rv'er]

FWIW Department, the Transfer Switch on an APEX Alpine Coach 2007 (really June 2006) is inside the water fill/Drain Bay-behind the smaller door. The transfer switch is a big black box to the left of the Xantex Inverter-(am going to check those connections as well when it gets home). As mentioned, mine were loose. Plus, the brackets holding the transfer switch were loose, and were wearing a hole in the tank just behind it. To remedy, I put some silicone rubber stick on feet over the worn spot, and then some rubber cone shaped booties over the bolts sticking out-glued on with Gorilla Glue. So far this has prevented the tank damage which would have been way more expensive. When I'm in the compartment, I check those bolts to make sure that the brackets are still tight and not loose again.