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Old 03-05-2016, 08:26 PM   #71
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This has been an interesting adventure. I want to thank everyone who participated, all comments and suggestions were taken into account as much as possible. This project is done. I will report any difference I find reguarding the Filter Minder readings. It will be sometime before I will be able to report any [if any] improvement in mileage. I have great hopes for "power on the hills", maybe even "cooler running on the big hills", and "improved mileage" Since I am able to do all the work myself it was a CHEAP FIX, if it fixed anything? So here are the finished pictures. Thanks again, Ken
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Old 03-05-2016, 08:32 PM   #72
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Ken,

Did you remember to take the rag out?
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:15 PM   #73
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Ken, did you compile a list of parts used, this is a modification I will be doing shortly and would certainly appreciate any help you can give me.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:29 PM   #74
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Thanks Art? That got me to thinking, did I or did I not, The answer is yes.

Dave, We still don't know if it will do any good, but I am willing to help.
I have no parts list, since I have made most of the items I used. I can say, since my background is in industrial electrical work, that the "through the floor fitting" could have been a 10" x 10" x 6" Screw Cover junction box. It would have to be sealed, but it's function was to hold the 7" tubing in place and provide a seal through the floor. On my coach it was better to move the floor penetration inward as far as I could go and keep the whole thing inside the corner cover box that was already there. I could not locate a piece of 7" tubing in steel, so I rolled it and welded the seam. I wanted something that I was able to weld to the lid of the floor box [ I don't weld aluminum]. So all that provided a 7" extension to the existing 7" air way to the filter canister. The collector box was a piece of 8" dia. thin wall "PIP" pipe and two pipe caps. The connection to the Air Grills was fabricated galvanized sheet metal. Two "C" shaped sides, with Two pieces for the top and bottom. One piece bent in half to fit around the center post between the grills. All were Pop Riveted and sealed for leaks with Dap Dynaflex230 sealant. If any or all of this helps you or anyone else your welcome. Any questions, just ask. Ken
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Old 03-06-2016, 03:52 PM   #75
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Ken,

Looks very good and I could not resist in asking about the rag. haha
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Old 03-06-2016, 03:53 PM   #76
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Hi, I have one additional observation. In the closet where the cover box fit against the walls there was quite a build-up of grey soot at the joints. I ignored it over the years, but when I removed the plastic adapter boot from the coach I found it to be broken inside the coach. It appears to me now that it had been leaking all along, letting air from inside the coach into the air way to the filter. That might account for the Low vacuum readings on my Filter Minder. Sucking air from inside the coach and through the One air grill from the outside at the same time was probably a good thing?? The system is completely sealed now, and all the air is going to have to enter through the Two Grills from the outside. So, if you have any soot around that box in the closet, you might have an air leak. Just thinking. Ken
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:36 PM   #77
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UPDATE. I have just returned from a two hour test drive. The Filter Minder was set to zero, It had been at 8" h2o. before all this. I drove as hard as I could up every hill I could find. I was not pulling the Wrangler, but "Pedal to the Metal" was the intent. When I returned home the Minder is setting at 6" or less h2o, that would be a 25% decrease or improvement I think. Do you think that would reset the Filter Minder? The coach ran GREAT, maybe better than ever? But that is speculation. So when I can report on mileage and performance totally loaded I will. I have high hopes. Ken
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Old 03-11-2016, 04:29 AM   #78
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Ken,

Sounds great barring any leaks, I would check all air intake connections from the turbo to the air filter to makes sure something has not happened while working on the air system. I know it is a PITA but I have seen engines dusted because something came loose and was not caught.
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Old 03-14-2016, 03:45 PM   #79
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Everything you worked on is upstream of the filter - so super good seal is not really necessary. It's probably a good idea to keep dirt out of the filter and make it last longer though.


Thanks for sharing your experience - I've been eyeballing that tiny inlet for quite a while.
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:01 AM   #80
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Jeeper, You are absolutely correct. What Art was referring to was my low filter minder readings I believe. If anything came loose anywhere in the system that would let air in, then the filter minder readings might be show low. Just for clarification, Ken
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:07 AM   #81
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Ken has it right, I learned many years ago that when ever you work on or around the engine air intake system always double check that things are good to go as what was ok may not be due to disturbing a connection.
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:18 AM   #82
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I think the point on this last post is it really doesnt matter that much if you have minor leaks in the plumbing before the filter cannister--the biggest "leak" you have is in the two inlet openings you just built [smile]......
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:35 AM   #83
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
I think the point on this last post is it really doesnt matter that much if you have minor leaks in the plumbing before the filter cannister--the biggest "leak" you have is in the two inlet openings you just built [smile]......

Correct as long as your leaks are located where there is cool, clean, and dry air.
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Old 03-15-2016, 03:36 PM   #84
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After the two new holes that have been cut in the sidewall to reduce "restrictions"--it wouldnt dare leak anywhere else--would it? [smile]
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