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Old 05-06-2016, 02:35 PM   #99
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The Paso Robles rally isn't until May1. Since it's a long haul for me down highway 5, I will probably pull over at rest stops and remove or add scoop, grill, etc. Worst case is it doesn't work and I order another $35.00 grill and blow out two scoops. The expanded metal that is being attached is 3/4". That's pretty big stuff considering the opening, but I will let you guys know, if you can wait that long.
I did forget to mention a couple of things that I noticed when I drove the Coach without the grill. My running temp. dropped a little below where it used to be with the 5 louvers in. It's hard to tell from the temp gauge, but I would guess about 5 to 10 degrees. The other thing, If i got on it, the trasmission would shift around 2,000 rpm. After taking the grill off, the shift doesn't occur until around 2,200. I am 90% sure about these 2 changes, but I can't swear to it, because I wasn't expecting these changes to occur, so I am going from memory. Maybe someone out there that is going to also do the "remove the grill" test can verify these results. We better hurry up and get some results for Old Scout, or he is gonna blow.

Frank
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Old 05-06-2016, 03:34 PM   #100
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Did I say May 1, I meant June 1. Damn, 64 and already don't know what month it is, and I'm starting to question the year.

Frank
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Old 05-06-2016, 04:16 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALPINEER View Post
Did I say May 1, I meant June 1. Damn, 64 and already don't know what month it is, and I'm starting to question the year.

Frank
Frank,

I and some others would trade years with you lol
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Old 05-07-2016, 02:34 AM   #102
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OK - Just a quickie to say Tris did it on our APEX summer before last, and it "might" have made a small increase in mileage - but nothing significant. About 5 years ago Tris also did fiber-glassed slits in our engine cover (actually Paint Dept in Chino did them for us before they went out of business or Dave left ) and together they have made the engine compartment less hot and also along with everything else he has done to it - we get between 7.5 and 9.5 mpg on average - sometimes as high as 10.

Sorry - I don't have any science behind it - only mpg.

We are currently working on a Hydro-Hot leak - and an engine that wouldn't start until Tris switched out the Vansco units - front to back - and has successfully cut a 4' opening in the floor that is practically mush so the HH guy can change out the fittings (plastic to brass) to stop the leak. Then we will replace the flooring with cement board and additional steel rails!

Carolyn
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Old 05-07-2016, 01:02 PM   #103
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Carolyn, OUCH! 4' hole, sounds gruesome. In regards to "fiberglass slits" in the engine cover, I would really like to see those. Can you post a few pictures for clarification? More information is a GOOD thing. Ken
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Old 05-07-2016, 02:23 PM   #104
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....or--on warmer days, I just leave the rear access door to the engine compartment open while driving--pretty cheap fix....
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Old 05-07-2016, 08:03 PM   #105
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Ken - Tris said I exaggerated - it was only 2' not 4' (looked longer to me) & he is not sure if it is wide enough - he could not cut it wider than 2.5" w/o taking the steel brace off to cut more towards the center of the coach. He will eventually have to do that to replace that mushy particle board they used on the bottom of the rigs!

I have spent an hour trying to figure out how to attach pix (its been a long time since I have done it) so not sure what I have attached but here goes!!!!
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Old 05-08-2016, 10:53 AM   #106
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Carolyn, I see someone who likes gardening. I also see a really cool idea for lowering engine compartment temperatures. Really Nice. I like the Twin Grills and the occasional 10 m.p.g. Thank You your efforts were successful. Ken
PS. good luck with your 2' gash.
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Old 05-30-2016, 06:51 PM   #107
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Engine air intake mod

Since purchasing my '06 34' Lmtd a year ago, I've listened with modest annoyance at the air flow thru the engine air intake grill at idle - can't imagine the flow restriction at power and 36 Klbm load! So decided to fix it, at least a little...
I say a "little" because with testing as best I could (note instantaneous mileage off Silverleaf, smooth highway, no wind, unloaded, cool overcast; repeat within 10 min, but with cover off air cleaner cannister), I found mileage improved 0.2 - 0.3 mpg. I did the "testing" because on removal of the grill, I found the side-wall opening to be 3.75" X 11", but the interior transition to the downcomer pipe to the air cleaner to be "necked" down to 2.75", gradually opening toward the top to about 3.5" (pic 1). So no surprise when bypassing restrictive inlet / induction hose to find an increase in mileage (my effective inlet was about 34 sq inches going to the ducting of about 38.5 sq inch, not considering effects of the SS grill). Further, the mathematics of air flow says the flow rate is proportional to the cross section area (more is better), is proportional to the square root of the differential pressure (less restrictions causing a dp is better).
Since taking induction air from "under" the coach IMHO is not an option, I decided to increase the inlet rectangular area to approximate the circular duct area, but not disturb the exterior wall / grill area (very little gain by increasing rectangular area above the duct area).
Using a stiff (medium metal) blade on a SawzAll, I was able to easily cut away WRV's poor inlet transition to the downcomer both on the bottom and more importantly up the sidewalls. Fortunately WRV did balance the positioning of the 7" downcomer equally on each side of the 3.75" sidewall inlet, so the side cuts remained well inside the downcomer pipe. The cuts on each side took the approximate shape of a sail, with the deepest cut towards the coach walls at the bottom, gradually tapering inward at the top since WRV had not "squeezed" the top inward nearly as much as the bottom.
After cleaning the interior well with MEK, I cut patterns of fibreglass to fit over the holes by about an inch, covering approximately half the hole with the resin wetted fibreglass patches (not so big the patches would not be self supporting once stuck to the parent interior). Several layups later, both sides were closed, providing a smooth transition to the downcomer, and an effective inlet area of about 40 sq inches (greater than the ducting).
Unfortunately, my weather has gotten warmer, so I have not been able to replicate the conditions under which I did my first testing, and determine the effectiveness of the mod; the good news, I hear more turbine, and much less air whistling (I think).
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:57 AM   #108
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Wink

Shultz, Nice work. I think you will improve things with that effort.
I am packing for a trip starting next week. I will be watching my mileage
very closely. My mileage is all over the board so it will be HARD to compare. We do a lot of Boondocking, and the Generator is an issue when it comes to mileage. If these improvements help---great, if they don't change the mileage, they still make me feel better. I will be reporting when I have some results. Ken
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:54 AM   #109
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Guys, I'm watching what your doing and I really like it. I had a private message with Eng Mike and in his conversation he always wanted a scoop for air. So I have a extra grille and I went to play with it. If air passes by and opening it will cause a vaccum. So I turned those fins around 90 degrees and they will fit. The faster you go down the road it scoops air into the intake. I used a screen that had 1 inch squares to keep birds out. I have sent it to the welding shop to be tigged. When I get it back I will post pics of it. You can open the opening more than it is now. I'm worried about rain as you travel. As you set at a idle they are the same as you have now. Then as you move the air is forced down the intake. Do not hit with your elbow or shoulder or head. I put it together and it looks good. One more thing, If you put a hinge on the bottom side you could put a spring on the other end and the faster you go the spring would let it open more.
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Old 06-02-2016, 08:42 AM   #110
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So--any data on performance or MPG?--I am from Missouri [not really].....
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Old 06-02-2016, 12:51 PM   #111
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Sorry Dean no data. I have one thing that keeps going in my head. When I purchased this Rv in Baton Rouch and drove it home to Ky, I changed every filter on it. The Vaccum gauge showed a 2 on there. When I put the new filter on there and get up to 70 mph and stop I'm showing 8. I took it for a real ride for Ken and it went to 10 to 11. I think there's a filter problem. I purchased the filter on Ebay and it was wrapped and sealed. Since then I have called the filter company and there was some problem filters dumped. They had the fine filter on the outside and it filled right up with dust. More air can't hurt. But that vaccum gauge is saying that filter is stopped up. So I'm also going to get a new filter. But before I put the new filter on I'm going to check with my new grille I put together. My silverleaf shows I'm getting 6 to 8 mpg. Depending on how I drive and speed.
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Old 06-02-2016, 04:38 PM   #112
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I know it costs a lot to keep our rigs going down the road, but I cant understand the desire to "save" money on oil and filters for our engines and transmissions. At worst we change oil once a year and for many things, once every three or four years. Given the cost to rebuild or replace these components, I wont take the chance. Maybe brand-name products are a rip-off but it helps me sleep better.....not to be mean, but someone help me understand the "risk/reward" for doing this....
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