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Old 01-03-2005, 06:04 PM   #1
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I have a friend who has just picked up a new 05 quad from the factory and needs help. Thru a telephone call he informs me that there is a parasitic electrical drain from his engine batteries and his coach will not start after sitting a few days. Factory has not been much help in trouble-shooting long distance. Has anyone out there experienced same problem,and come up with a solution? Fredbob
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Old 01-03-2005, 06:04 PM   #2
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I have a friend who has just picked up a new 05 quad from the factory and needs help. Thru a telephone call he informs me that there is a parasitic electrical drain from his engine batteries and his coach will not start after sitting a few days. Factory has not been much help in trouble-shooting long distance. Has anyone out there experienced same problem,and come up with a solution? Fredbob
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Old 01-03-2005, 08:18 PM   #3
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Hello FredBob:

Happy New Year.

Sorry to hear about the problems with the coach. First I would suggest that you have your friend check the alternator for voltage output, should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts. Second I would check the starting batteries with a load tester after they have been charged, to see if one of the batteries has a bad cell. It may be that simple but with the new electrical system that uses no fuses I am lost at even thinking about diagnosing or working on it. Although the factory may have already suggested the simple tests in their attempt to diagnosis the problem. In the past I have disconnected all of the connections from the engine batteries to the vehicle and place an amp meter between the post and each cable and see which one has the high amp draw. At least that would help to find which circuit the drain is on. From there it is a process of elimination to find which component is the problem child. To test further you must disconnect all components like the radio, clocks, etc., anything that will operate when the ignition is off and continue running the test to determine which one is the culprit as you reconnect each component. When the culprit is reconnected the amp draw will increase.

The only other thing I can think of is if you have a good automotive electrical business if the area take it there for diagnosing.

I wish I could be of more help.

Dave
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Old 01-03-2005, 08:51 PM   #4
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Not knowing what you have tried makes it a bit difficult to come up with ideas. However, if you haven't checked the solar panel polarity or ensured that your basement lights aren't on, you might give them a check. Also, make sure the inverter is not left on and the antenna amplifier is turned off. Have you tried turning off the main battery disconnect to see if that helps? If it is off and the battery still discharges then it is probably a cell shorted.
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Old 01-04-2005, 09:47 PM   #5
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You might check to see if something is wired to the chassis batteries, that should be
wired to the house batteries.
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Old 01-12-2005, 08:35 AM   #6
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I also have experienced the the 05 dead start batteries. First trip in for service they found loose grounds to the chassis but nothing else. While in for service a second time the problem occurred at the dealer. They could not find a significant drain on the batteries. The solution, according to WRV, was to turn off the main chassis switch in the battery bay every time I park without power. I don't thing this is an adequate solution. My 01 coach never had this problem even with old batteries.
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Old 01-14-2005, 02:11 AM   #7
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John, sorry to here of WRV's solution. I also have a 05 and don't have the problem. I have dry camped several times, once for 2 weeks and no problems with the chassis batteries. Keeping the house batteries charged is another story. My auto Gen start system for the most part has been DOA since delivered.

On the bright side maybe by living in the coach with the chassis battery disconnected you will find what is not working and discover the problem. If the automotive charging system is working properly then I would suspect a 12-volt house feature is connected to the chassis battery.
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Old 01-17-2005, 06:37 AM   #8
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Have you looked at the Echo Heart Changer to make sure that it is not wired backwards. If it is wired backwards it will take a charge from your chassis battery to maintain your house battery.
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Old 04-17-2005, 08:33 PM   #9
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Tom Silkey, I have a similar problem on my 34 FDDS and like you I suspect the echo charger. The previous owner replaced all batteries in Feb 04, but no indication that anyone checked the echo charger connections. I'll let you know --

April 24: Yep, it was wired backwards! The Echo charger in our '01 is connected to a three-terminal battery isolator on the aft bulkhead of the battery compartment (back wall to you landlubbers). Center terminal goes to the alternator; outer terminals feed the two sets of batteries. The Echo Charger wires were connected to the outer terminals; but backwards. Apparently this was because the correct lead was cut too short to reach the far terminal.

If you suspect lead reversal, first you should look at the echo charger when the coach is plugged in and the main charger is on. The echo charger light should be solid green. If it's blinking, that's an indication of trouble. I'd recommend just reversing the leads without doing any further checks; if the light turns green, you've solved the problem!

Good luck,
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Old 04-18-2005, 02:56 PM   #10
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I had the same problem and it was the interconnect relay found back there by the batteries.
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Old 04-18-2005, 04:10 PM   #11
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Based on this thread I think we are going to check our chassis battery charge every day when charged to see if they are discharging (until we are satisfied they are not slowly discharging while parked).

How do you figure out if the ECHO charger is correctly wired?

What do you do when your chassis batteries are dead?

Audrey
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Old 04-20-2005, 08:53 AM   #12
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For those with 04 and later models I do not believe there is an echo charger on your coach that trickle feeds your coach batteries. The replacement was a Interconnect Jumper from Sure Power Industries. On our 04 Alpine we never could get ours to keep the coach batteries charged so finally bought and installed the Echo Charger and have never had a problem since.

If you do run your coach batteries down you can use the Battery Boost to get the coach running from the house batteries. This assumes you have not run the house batteries down for some reason. You can always jump the coach if in a real bind.
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Old 04-20-2005, 01:14 PM   #13
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I have a theory on diagnosing a dead cell, FWIW. Haven't had the condition myself to try this out.

A dead-cell battery will self-drain w/out being connected to anything, so its drain is internal. Tandem batteries, like the chassis set (or multiple strings of any #, like the house set) should, if one has a dead cell, show the discharge drain on the batt-to-batt wire running from one batt's '+' terminal to the other's '-' terminal when the red wire to load & chassis ground wires are disconnected. I.e., disconnect the string from the chassis @ both ends & read an amp probe on the inter-batt wire; if there is a reading, one batt is discharging the other. Again, FWIW; a good battery test w/a carbon pile load tester or one of the new fangled computerized units is more fool proof.
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Old 04-20-2005, 09:09 PM   #14
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Audrey - My echo charge has a solid red wire that is supposed to go to the house batteries and a red with white stripe that goes to the chassis batteries. They are spliced to a red and an orange wire respectively and go to the battery compartment. The red wire senses the house bat voltage and if it is sufficiently above the chassis bat the echo will charge the chassis. If they are reversed, the chassis will not charge. So, make sure the red wire is going to the house bats. Several coaches had these wires reversed and WRV subsequently corrected the problem. It wouldn't hurt to verify though. Once I discovered my wiring was reversed, and corrected it, the system worked great.
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