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Old 09-27-2016, 06:42 PM   #1
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Engine Door Opens On rough Roads

The Engine door opens on rough roads. I have adjusted the latches, but that did not correct the problem.

Has anyone experienced the same problen. If so, what did you do to fix the problem?
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:24 PM   #2
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Do the latches stay closed, or are they opening, allowing the door to open? Assuming they stay closed, check to see what surface they are making contact with. Is it barely touching that surface (right on the edge) when it is closed?

Those latches come in different models, with the catch arm different lengths and depths. Maybe somebody put on the wrong model, and the arm is too short to make proper contact. That isn't adjustable. Replaceable, but not adjustable.
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Old 09-27-2016, 10:26 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim A View Post
Do the latches stay closed, or are they opening, allowing the door to open? Assuming they stay closed, check to see what surface they are making contact with. Is it barely touching that surface (right on the edge) when it is closed?

Those latches come in different models, with the catch arm different lengths and depths. Maybe somebody put on the wrong model, and the arm is too short to make proper contact. That isn't adjustable. Replaceable, but not adjustable.

While what Jim A is proposing certainly could be the reason, I would ask why this is happening now, your coach is 10 years old, has this been happening for that time or was something replaced recently? I would look for something else, like have the hinges worn or has the hardware worked loose, allowing the door to shift, has the fiberglass split? I would look at the door environment before I started replacing parts that were installed 10+ years ago.
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Old 09-28-2016, 11:33 AM   #4
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Dave, I agree with you. It just started in the last 5,000 miles. We have 65,000 on the coach.

What I have noticed is that the latches only move about 45 degrees from full open to close. I think they have always performed that way. What I did notice on inspection was that the fiber glass which the metal bracket is mounted has deformed. The bracket is no longer at 90 degrees to the door. Thus the surface that the latch meets is not parallel to the door.
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Old 10-21-2016, 01:45 PM   #5
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Dennis,

I just addressed this problem this week. I tried adjusting the latches and it didn't help. I found that I could close the latches and by moving the door sideways. replicating road vibration, one of them would unlatch.

I drilled out the rivets on both of the tabs and made a couple of 3/16" spacer/shims and remounted the tabs. I also made some backing plates just like the spacers and added them to the back side of the fiberglass lip. I went back with machine screws and nuts. I haven't tried it on the road yet, but I can no longer make it unlatch by moving the door.

We'll see, Terry
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Old 10-22-2016, 08:00 AM   #6
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Terry, that's good news. I would go a dit further with the investigation, find out what was caused the door to start opening 5k miles ago. How are your shocks? Do you have something going on that caused the fiberglass to deform? Just my opinion.

Dave
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Old 10-22-2016, 09:19 AM   #7
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Dave,

I have had the problem since I bought it a year and a half ago. I have adjusted the latches and lubed the pivot points and never could get it to hold really well. To me it looked like the holding tabs were just a little bit short and one was possibly a tad loose, rivets not holding. It may have helped just to replace the rivets with bolts or screws, but I figured while I had em out I'd shim them a bit.

My door doesn't seem overly loose on the hinge mechanism but there is some movement back there.

My shocks seem to be pretty good for now, they are however on my list of "fun stuff to buy". I've had enough "have toos" to keep me from doing some of the "want toos"!!

Terry
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Old 10-22-2016, 11:21 AM   #8
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Dave,

I have had the problem since I bought it a year and a half ago. I have adjusted the latches and lubed the pivot points and never could get it to hold really well. To me it looked like the holding tabs were just a little bit short and one was possibly a tad loose, rivets not holding. It may have helped just to replace the rivets with bolts or screws, but I figured while I had em out I'd shim them a bit.

My door doesn't seem overly loose on the hinge mechanism but there is some movement back there.

My shocks seem to be pretty good for now, they are however on my list of "fun stuff to buy". I've had enough "have toos" to keep me from doing some of the "want toos"!!

Terry
Understand completely, both my "have too" and "want to" lists are lengthy, but need to get most of them done before we leave for the west coast next month (Rose Parade then DRR).

I just replaced the stock black and grey tank vents with 360's hopefully they will give us the "as advertised" better venting, also had to replace the Hydro Hot stir pump, one of the plastic fittings on it had cracked and it was slowly emptying the tank. The universal pump kit, while expensive was great it had all the parts I needed and then some.

Dave
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:02 AM   #9
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Update on engine door fix,

I just finished 500+ miles on Hwy 101 in CA. Portions of the road are very rough, I had forgotten just how bad that road is.

The engine door stayed latched for the entire trip. Looks like shimming the tabs did the trick.

Terry
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