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Old 08-20-2009, 10:43 AM   #29
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: St Georeg Utah
Posts: 19
Old Scout you are right on, the eng.rpm is the key.
look when western made the alpine they made it for the us market. Most of the us is flat or small hills. If they made it for a run from LA calif to las vegas. The very hardest pull in the us by far the cooling needs to be two times bigger. We can get over this run, just think and you will be ok. When you go up baker grade in the summer you will see, every day cars and trucks down. They just put there foot down and go for it.
Now the AC the 03 and before, the ac is a joke one wax value control to turn the fan on the best thing to do is take it off and let the fan run all the time. It takes 5 sensors to make the ac run like you like it. The 134a AC systems are far more complex. even the 04 to 09 or low end. lets hope the fan comes on and keep the high side pressure down.

Dwight Warner
04 38 FDTS
St. George Ut
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Old 09-06-2009, 12:54 AM   #30
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Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 2,209
Ok, first my hottest temps I can remember are around 195, going over 4th of July Pass on the way to Montana, maybe I hit 199-200, not over that.

Second - I keep the RPM's at 1500 or so and manually put into 4 going up steep hills. No toad behind the coach up to now, but on Thursday, I am setting up the jeep.

I am far more concerned about my transmission temps, and start to really worry if they get over 203 or so, so I watch them like a hawk, maybe more so than needed.

I always have the ventilation on, not necessarily the A/C. I check the hydraulic reservoir level each trip, have not noticed any leakage.

Cummings finally fixed my front plate oil leak, so I'm happy about that. After Dale's comments about his radiator spacing, I checked mine, 07 Non Smog Engine ISL400, and they look correct, at least to my untrained eye they are.

I cannot tell you with any accuracy what I have in the Hydraulic Reservoir, and believe there is a tag, but don't remember what is written on it, if it's there and I remember I will update this post with that info, as to what it contains.

I do seem to have to push on the brake pedal to get the old girl to stop, but I attributed that to lots of mass, slowing it down, Newton’s law or some such thing. Still wish it had air brakes on it. Too many hydraulic systems on the thing, with WRV’s crappy quality control, the thing could have a bad day, and I too untrained to figure out what it is.

Monty & Janet - 2007 Alpine APEX 40 MDTS
S/N - 75715 - Retired - Master Certified RV Tech
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:35 PM   #31
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Ours, with either the old or new radiator, runs about 195 most of the time towing one of our toads. It will go up to 200 to 205 on a steep pull on a hot day. The transmission temperature normally runs around 208 to 212. It has been to 221 on a very warm day pulling uphill One hot day it came to 240 or so and kicked on the warning light, but that was stopped at an intersection in El Paso with an accident in front of us and we couldn't move for a while. I was running with the tranny in drive and my foot on the brake at the incident, and the torque just heated up the system. I put it in neutral and revved the engine a bit and it cooled right off.

I rarely shift manually down to 4th going up a hill. I try to leave the cruise control on and keep the "economy" button off when going up a lot of hills, letting the computer shift the tranny against the load and it works just fine. I have found the big deal on getting the engine to shift down to 5th and 4th and even 3rd when it needs to is having the "economy" button turned off. Otherwise it tries to shift too late and doesn't rev early enough.

So, I think your temps are well within the range and not anything to overly worry about.
Former Owner, 2006 36MDDS
2010 Arctic Fox 22GK Travel Trailer
2007 Toyota Tundra
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Old 09-07-2009, 12:55 AM   #32
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Location: Vancouver, WA
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Thank you for verifiing my temps, we are a little different in weight, but we try to keep it at 30-31K so we are not ow.
Monty & Janet - 2007 Alpine APEX 40 MDTS
S/N - 75715 - Retired - Master Certified RV Tech
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Old 09-07-2009, 01:37 PM   #33
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Location: Chatsworth CA
Posts: 160
I think there is a lot of disagreement on what constitutes overheating. Pressurized systems are designed to run at higher coolant temparatures. Temparature gauges and thermostats are notorious for inaccuracy. After 50 years around liquid cooled engines my belief is if you are not losing coolant, you are not overheating.

Using the VMSpc digital readouts on my 2007 I find it running normally at 185 to 195. The highest reading I have had is 230 while climbing a long steep hill on sr 299 from US 101 to Redding this summer. I was holding 1500 rpm in 3rd or 4th which I find is the best speed for my 400 ISL. No complaints from the warning systems.

Incidentally, on that hill I got momentary readouts of 400 hp and almost 1200 ft-lbs of torque.

Rick J Fisher, BW is Judy
2007 Alpine 34FDDS Limited SE
2003 Jeep Rubicon or a 1995 Toyota Tacoma
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