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Old 12-31-2012, 12:56 PM   #1
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First time in 9 years

I find that I must store the coach without any power during the 2 coldest months at my home. I know to drain the water heater and open the lowest drain points but a big concern is the solenoid on the rear of the Amana reefer. I have already destroyed one and replacement was a headache. How do I make sure that the solenoid is empty ?
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:20 PM   #2
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Interesting & novel point. That solenoid valve is usually at one bottom rear corner of a fridge and likely stands a column of water between it & the ice maker.

Can you keep fridge On, drain coach of water, open the compartment below fridge, open a fitting in the ice maker line, & fool the fridge into making some ice? I think that would allow the water to drain out.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:07 PM   #3
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You actually have 2 issues. The water in the door feature uses a water tank inside the refer compartment, this also should be drained. There is a pex coupler below the freezer door that could be disconnected to drain the line and possibly the tank. The best and possibly easiest way would be to pull the fridge out and disconnect the lines from the solenoid and let them drain.

It sounds like you have pulled the fridge at least once. I find after removing the tie down bolts and lowering the whells mine is easy to roll out
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:06 PM   #4
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I can see where bolts would increase the effort required.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:07 PM   #5
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Wayne, I've winterized my coach for the last 3 - years by using an air compressor. And yes, the Amana refrigerator is the most difficult to evacuate all of the water. The method I use is to take the tank loose (1 - screw) and turn it upside down which causes the air to push the water out through the left front door dispenser. I also hold a water hose directly under the water dispenser spout while activating the dispenser to direct the water out of the coach via the front door. This method also pushes the water out of the filter. You will probably still get a little water spillage from the air causing a "spray" but just keep an old towel handy to wipe it up.

I don't believe you can get the water to drain out of the tank inside the refrigerator without using air or add unions to the 2 - pex lines. However, I investigated using unions on the pex lines and it appears that the 1 of the 2 lines is not a standard size so I abandoned that idea. The air works great for me.
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:30 PM   #6
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WOW! you guys have made this job sound very complicated. What if I turn off the water to the reefer, keep it on for a day and force the water out of the system? On the reservoir issue, what if I just draw the water out of it by using the door dispenser ?
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:57 PM   #7
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Chris, if I understand your question correctly the answer is that only water pressure causes water to go through the refrigerator in terms of ice or the front water dispenser. There is NO pump directly associated with the refrigerator. The valve in the rear simply opens and closes to allow the water to run through the refrigerator. If you turn off the water valve behind the service bay the water in the tank reservoir, internal pex lines, and filter will hold whatever water is there when you turn off the valve. The low point drain will allow water in the pex line that feeds the refrigerator to drain but nothing IN the refrigerator.

There only 2 - methods for winterizing the coach: 1) run RV antifreeze through everything that uses water (except the water heater which just requires draining) or 2) evacuate the water using an air compressor. There are variations in these methods but those are the only 2 - methods that I've ever heard discussed in seminars or on this website.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:06 PM   #8
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winterising refer

the cnilled water dispencer uses the supply water presure to push the water out so if you turn off the supply the water will stay in the chilling tank and the lines and filte i think your best bet is compressed air connected to where you connect city water and operate the dispencer till you get just air and leave the fridge and i/m on long enuph for the i/m to cycle atleast once
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:37 AM   #9
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Chris, if you just pump RV Antifreeze throughout the coach, the problem is solved. This is especially true if you have a Hydro hot since the only way you can guaranteed that it does not freeze is doing that. In fact HH recommends that procedure is the only one which keeps the warranty in force. Just have someone winterize the coach using that stuff; it should take about 5 gallons or so.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris cross View Post
I know to drain the water heater and open the lowest drain points but a big concern is the solenoid on the rear of the Amana reefer. I have already destroyed one and replacement was a headache.

With power to the Fridge, Open the low point valves, NO pressure in the water system, and the supply valve to the Fridge OPEN.

Force the ice maker to cycle (Pull the front off it and turn the gear)

This will open the valve, gravity will pull the water out of the solenoid and the line to the ice tray.

Once the cycle has completed, close the valve to the fridge,, blow the lines (rest of 'em) with compressed air. And the fresh water Job is done. Remember don't just blow once, Blow many times.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:04 PM   #11
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As Monty says, Only Aqua-Hot approved way, Pump antifreeze through ALL lines, repeat all lines
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:08 AM   #12
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As Monty says, Only Aqua-Hot approved way, Pump antifreeze through ALL lines, repeat all lines
So you're saying the answer is to pump antifreeze into the refrigerator??
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:38 AM   #13
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So you're saying the answer is to pump antifreeze into the refrigerator??
Yes, all domestic water lines
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