Front Door Hard to Close

[gator67]

It seems that our front door never seems to close easily... we always have to sort of slam it to close all the way. I know sometimes the coach is flexed when it's leveled so that can be a problem, but it seems to always be difficult to close. It doesn't seem to make any difference whether the screen door is connected or not. We have friends who have Monaco coaches and their door closes so easily. Has anyone noticed difficulty in closing their front door? Has anyone done anything to mitigate this problem?

[gator67]

It seems that our front door never seems to close easily... we always have to sort of slam it to close all the way. I know sometimes the coach is flexed when it's leveled so that can be a problem, but it seems to always be difficult to close. It doesn't seem to make any difference whether the screen door is connected or not. We have friends who have Monaco coaches and their door closes so easily. Has anyone noticed difficulty in closing their front door? Has anyone done anything to mitigate this problem?

[dgerstel]

Jerry,

The post that the door latches on can be moved out, which will reduce the force needed to latch the door. This also can allow the door to not seal all the way around its perimeter and cause some wind noise. I have mine adjusted so that it takes a slam to close it to the second latching position. While we are doing our normal entry and exiting while we are staying somewhere, we just close it to the first latch position. While we are traveling we latch it to the second position, to help eliminate wind noise.

[big jimbo]

When we had our 06 Apex, I noticed that the post that engaged the door was loose. I tried to tighten it and no matter how hard I pulled on the wrench, it was still loose.

When we were at the factory, Izzy told me that post is designed to "float" which allows the door to function even when the coach is twisted.

I found that slamming it a little harder when we were on the move eliminated the wind noise.

[JC2]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by gator67:
It seems that our front door never seems to close easily... we always have to sort of slam it to close all the way. I know sometimes the coach is flexed when it's leveled so that can be a problem, but it seems to always be difficult to close. It doesn't seem to make any difference whether the screen door is connected or not. We have friends who have Monaco coaches and their door closes so easily. Has anyone noticed difficulty in closing their front door? Has anyone done anything to mitigate this problem? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Go here to Dale Olson's website and check #3(Door Striker Upgrade). See if this info will help. http://oemys-performance.com/diyindex.htm I don't own an Alpine but like others have staed, it sounds like an adjustment of sorts is needed.

[EngineerMike]

The post design requires float due to coach flex. Per PTL Engineering, if the door can't move slightly, coach flex will pinch the door & mess it up.

[gator67]

I'm not clear on the concept of the "float". The post in my coach is firmly bolted to the frame. Is it the post that sticks out that floats, or the portion that's in the door?

[Wayne R]

The post if loosened will float. I always figured it was for adjustment. My 2000 Alpine had the same arrangement and was tight from the factory.

[EngineerMike]

The post screws into an internally threaded backing plate firmly, but has a tightly compressed flat piece of sheet metal (a spring) between the post & its backing nut so the assembly can float under ordinary conditions. Per PTL, sometimes the spring rusts or freezes to the slot it rides in and the post is frozen in place. It is easy to disassemble & lube. You take the "PTL Engineering" plastic cover off & the rest is self explanatory.

[Dale777]

Jerry,

The post sticks out from its attachment to the door frame. Floating of the post is the movement from somewhat side to side (inside to outside of coach door frame), although if I remember right the movement is slightly at an angle up-down. Grab this post with your fingers and try moving it inside to outside or vice versa. After you have moved it with your fingers, you will move it back to its original position to allow the door to close properly.

[gator67]

I finally got it... somewhat. I didn't realize that it's the post itself that loosens. I did that, moved it back and forth, but I can't find a good position for it. Here's a picture of where it is now. Is that about where other folks have theirs? Or, is it just the case that you have to close it hard to get it to the point where the bolt will engage?

[gator67]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">The post design requires float due to coach flex. Per PTL Engineering, if the door can't move slightly, coach flex will pinch the door & mess it up. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

When I loosen the bolt enough to float, it gets pushed to the farthest back position and the lock doesn't engage at all. Is it the case that the bolt should not be tightened down?

[dgerstel]

I have always tightened my bolt, as you have said, with it loose you can't adjust the door.

[rjf7g]

I had a problem with my door on my class C and checked the metal framing all around. I found two screws that we're not biting the wood any more and since I replace them, I have had no problems.