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Old 03-16-2018, 07:53 PM   #1
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Front Vansco Remount

I finally followed the recommendation of Terry W today and flipped the bolts on the front Vansco. It actually requires purchasing new bolts that are threaded their entire length. I went with 4” 1/4-20 although 3 1/2” may have worked. The longer bolt is the safe bet depending on your washer and jam nut configuration.

I had intended on utilizing the skills of my lovely wife to complete the task this weekend, however, after gathering the parts I decided to test the plan so as to avoid a mid-project trip to the hardware. After getting one bolt loose it became apparent that an attempt should be made to remove all four. The strategic use of a crescent wrench, a small spring clip and a yoga block inside, combined with a 7/16” socket and multiple trips in and out of the coach, yielded successful results. Two people with the correct tools could do it in half an hour. Another one of WRV’s “Are you kidding me?” moments has been eliminated.

One point of interest for mid-door owners. Because of the dual fuel fill option, it was not possible to insert the 4” bolt in the lower left hole, as you’re facing the firewall from the outside. After pondering several options, which aren’t worth mentioning, I opted to drill out the hole, from the inside, to 5/16” which was sufficient to get the bolt through. I was prepared to go 3/8” if necessary.

If you don’t carry a spare you’ll have plenty of time to remount the VMM while waiting for it to arrive. If you have a spare it would be a wise choice to prepare the area in advance. The rear looks easy enough, although I may flip the existing bolts to put the threads and nuts in the battery compartment rather than the wheel well.
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Old 03-17-2018, 09:31 AM   #2
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Flipping bolts?
Putting the nuts inside?
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Old 03-17-2018, 01:23 PM   #3
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Yes. If you look at what's involved with removing the front one it should become clear.

Once removed push 4, 4"x1/4-20 fully threaded bolts through the firewall from outside and capture them by threading nuts onto them from the inside, leaving 4 threaded studs inside. Slide the VMM onto the studs and secure with nuts of your choice. Easiest to do with 2 people. Now it's a 5-10 minute job to swap it out.
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Old 03-17-2018, 01:39 PM   #4
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Thank you!
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Old 03-25-2018, 12:31 PM   #5
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IIWII'd also use fully threaded 1/4-20 bolts, and I'd put a "jamb-nut" on the inside after the bolts are thru, thread it down almost all the way, apply blue Loctite or equal, & tighten. This will leave a permanent stud in place so all you have to do ever again is work off the nuts from the inside and the stud will self-support against the wrench's torque. Also, there is no reason to re-use WRV's nuts which are a heavy duty keeper type w/deformed internal threads; instead use a star or split ring washer & standard 1/4-20 nut.

Also on the rear VMM, at least for '05 & later models, I'd oval out the holes toward the curb side of coach about 1/4". The inside lower VMM connector pinches on the HWH jack box making it a beeyatch to detach. Can be done, but if you have the VMM off anyway, might as well correct the inconvenience.
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Old 04-09-2018, 08:58 AM   #6
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Mike,

The rear VMM on my 2005 is not mounted in close proximity to the HWH jack box. Someone in the Customer Challenge Dept at WRV must have had a momentary lapse that day.

My concern with the front unit is that it is only supported by 4, G-2 bolts now rather than the OEM G-8's.
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Old 04-09-2018, 05:49 PM   #7
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Pioneer- the VMM doesn't weigh much. WRV ordered all Grade 8 stuff for standardization, and you get a pretty good price in mass quantity (i.e. if your volume is high enough you can't save much by stocking more SKU's). Standard bolts should last at least as long as you care about the matter.
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