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Old 10-22-2018, 09:49 AM   #1
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Fuel Filter Location on Engine

Know where the one fuel filter is in the service compartment where you check the oil, air filter and etc. Any idea where to find the primary one on the engine on mine. I'm sure it's a snake and I'm looking at it, or is it one of those needing a contortionist to get too, like a couple of my boats have been. Trying to see which filter to get. ISC engine I believe.
Thanks
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:57 AM   #2
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I'm not positive on your year, but it's above the starter on a 05.
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:59 AM   #3
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It's on my short list of things I need to do and looks like it might be a bit of a pain.
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Old 10-22-2018, 03:54 PM   #4
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..the secondary fuel filter didn't come in to play until the Pegasus engine in 2005. Earlier Alpines have three engine-related filters: oil, fuel, and coolant. Don't know if this differs for ISC350s vs ISL400s. Coolant filter went away with the Pegasus.
PS--you also have 3 stacked filters in the hydraulic fluid tank....
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Old 10-22-2018, 05:16 PM   #5
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Don't know whether to call them primary/secondary/whatever but my 1998 with the Cummins 6CTA 8.3 liter 325 hp has 2 fuel filters. One is a remote filter/fuel/water separator. Located in the service bay below the air filter cover.
There is discussion on this forum regarding how to minimize fuel spillage/loss when changing this filter. Heed the advice.

The other filter is mounted on the engine and is hard to reach.

The 1998 owner's manual lists them as Cummins #FS1242B for the remote separator and Cummins #FS1251 for the engine mounted filter.

Both are changed at 10,000 mile interval.
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Old 10-22-2018, 06:13 PM   #6
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...I stand corrected--again [smile]...thanks Gene for setting it straight....
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Old 10-23-2018, 08:07 AM   #7
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Thanks all - might be one of those easier to get at from the inside. Try and crawl under it first. Know where the starter is so can look around there. I always called the filter on the engine the primary and the one with the oil/water separator the secondary. Now that it's cooling off some I'll try and tackle the hydraulic one also. Hope there are some numbers on them to figure out what to get.

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Old 10-24-2018, 01:37 PM   #8
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FWIW-Buy the filters at amazon, make sure you get the correct ones for your engine. If you have Cummins do an oil change, they let you provide the filters, and only charge you for the labor and fluids. They do the fuel filters as part of the oil change, and will also do the genset oil-filter/fuel/air if you want to pay them for that. I do that annually for the oil-filter, and every other year on the fuel and air filter. I got my AF online, it was like 30 dollars cheaper than Cummins quoted me, and I changed it myself, not hard at all. I do the AF once every three years or 30-50 K miles. Since we only have 60K total miles on it now, I most likely change it too often, but Cummins said it was dirty, so I did it. I keep two of all filters(not AF or Tranny) in the coach at all times, why, you never know when you will pick up bad batch of fuel, although not common, it can happen. On the 07 I own, I have the primary (water n fuel separator filter) and the secondary one on the engine. Don't forget about the filters in the air system, that one is a pain to change. There are two or three in the tranny, and those should be changed every 3-5 years I think, just had mine done, so done with that. My HYD system was change in 12, and we have not used it more than 20K miles since then, so it can wait for a while yet.
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Old 11-25-2018, 03:44 PM   #9
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So went today and played with changing the fuel filter and oil in the gen. Apparently on the engine mine, only has one fuel filter in the service bay. This is a 2001 Cummins 8.3 ICS. Looked above the starter area and followed the fuel lines and goes to a short bowl and housing above the starter. So guessing this one only has one filter?? Others have that? On past boats always had two.

My question for next time is draining the filter in the service bay. Took almost a gallon out and showed no signs of getting to the end. Filter had a air lock (Guessing) and was hard to get to unscrew even with a filter wrench. When I got it loose finally, the fuel was steadily coming out. Had thought ahead and had the other filter ready. Changed lots of fuel filters on boats and always able to drain the off and filter popped right off. Is something different on this, or I just did not drain enough. Took a bit to get it primed and back running, but runs fine. Has to be an easier way or maybe add a fuel cutoff valve somewhere? Any help or thoughts on this one would be appreciated. Thought it should be straight forward.

Plus side added one of the Fumoto oil drain plugs on the generator while changing the oil. Think that will be a good addition and make it a breeze to change going forward with no mess. Going to add one to the engine next week when change the oil on that one.

Thanks
Bruce
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Old 11-25-2018, 05:30 PM   #10
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Bruce,


One VERY IMPORTANT point: If only one fuel filter, it's micron rating has to be fine (probably 5 micron for your engine, but verify with Cummins).


If two, it is the course filter with an element of 10-30 micron.


Critical that you have the correct one, as the elements all look the same/fit the same.
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Old 11-26-2018, 08:03 AM   #11
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The fuel ran out of mine the whole change as well - have a pan ready. I have found 2 conflicting instructions on the filter - one says to pre-fill it, and the other says to not pre-fill it to avoid pump damage. I've done it both ways. The last time I did not pre-fill it. I just cycled the key 3 or 4 times - listen to the electric pump run until it quits, cycle the key off-on again and listen to the pump run - etc. That circulates fuel back to the tank and should clear the air out. It started right up after that.


A little advice on the gen set fuel filter - install a valve in the line first. Fuel will run out of that non-stop during a change as well, and since you are laying under it, it all goes into your armpit. Very uncomfortable.
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Old 11-26-2018, 09:22 AM   #12
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Yes, for the "cleanest" filter change/least chance of leaking fuel OUT or sucking air all the way back to the tank, ADD A DIESEL COMPATIBLE BALL VALVE on the inlet side of the filter housing.


Also makes a great anti theft device!
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