Fuel Gauge Dies

[shelland]

Going down the road I heard an alarm go off and looked for a warning light or something to see what the problem was. I noticed the fuel gauge had gone to empty. The oil pressure gauge then dropped to zero. A few seconds later both recovered. This happened on and off for the next couple days. I assume it is not a sender issue as they are two unique senders. My thoughts are it is probably a gauge assembly issue or a computer issue but I don't have the schematics for the automotive wiring. Anybody have any idea what the problem might be? Does anyone have the automotive schematics for a 2000 36FDS? Thanks.

[Dale777]

shelland,

Check all electrical connections, starting in the battery compartment, to see if you have a ground problem. Many issues similar to what you describe have been traced to loose electrical connections.

[shelland]

Thanks Dale. I started yesterday with the wiring under the dash by the entry where all the automotive fuses are. I also checked the connection to the gauge assembly. So far everything looks good. When I get somewhere where I can get under the coach I'll look at the wiring there.

[Traveling Raven]

Try checking the wire that attaches to the 12 volt outlet in the dash area. I had a similiar problem and the nut in the back of the outlet holding the wires inplace was loose causing a short.

[shelland]

Thanks Raven, I checked the 12v outlet and everything seems OK. I will check the other 12v sources I've added in the area when I get a chance.

[shelland]

Good news and bad news ..... The problem appears to be associated with the center console slide tray that has drink holders, leveling, slide switches, etc. in it. I noticed that the gauges came back to life when I lifted the tray when it was in the out position. I checked everything but still have not located the exact cause. Everything is now working and until it stops again my troubleshooting is on hold. Thanks for all the suggestions.

[VAGABONDMAN]

Shelland,

You need to remove the access panel in front of the passenger seat and check out the wiring harness behind the cup holder drawer; it has a in-line connector that is probably loose.

[shelland]

I have been behind the front dash and sliding tray three times. I also disassembled the tray and inspected the wiring to the switches. No luck so far. The problem has gotten worse but if I don't have the tray out it seems fine. I am motoring now and just want to make it home so I have time to work on it.

[takepride]

Steve:

In an earlier thread, someone found that the wiring was loose inside the connector, where the pins meet the wires and the pins meet the opposing recepticle. They pushed the pins back into the plastic block, from the backside and everything was fine.

I had the same happen with my toad connector and a speaker connector.

Good luck and happy hunting!

[shelland]

I think I finally found the culprit causing the problems. The push button for the mirror heaters had slipped behind the front face on the center console (the burl looking plastic facing). It was just slightly behind, maybe a sixteenth of an inch but when the center console slide would flex or the coach would hit some rough road it would hold the switch closed.

I looked behind the automotive heater controls and the assembly was held in by two nylon wire ties, one was also missing. The heater control assembly was positioned too far left and without the third wire tie it was being slowly forced farther to the left. It finally went behind the console face. I cut off about 3/8 inch on the right side of the assembly and reinstalled it using all three tie wraps. It has now worked for 400 miles without any problems.

Thanks to all who responded to my posting. With your insights I figured I was looking in the right places.