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Old 09-09-2007, 09:58 AM   #15
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As suggested earlier in this topic, I added a vacuum breaker, and a valve, to the end of the existing overflow drain, routed in the propane compartment, and can now keep all the water in the tank. I have found that I can use my water down to the 11% mark according to the SeeLevel gauge, even with the side draw. Now that I am able to use ~90 of the 100 gallons, I am not sure I will bother moving the drain to the bottom, although in looking at Dave's modification, it is an easy and inexpensive modification. The vacuum breaker and valve will get you plenty of usable water, and it is a DIY project under $50.
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Old 09-09-2007, 11:09 AM   #16
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I noticed the posts were made by those having Coaches newer than mine.

After looking around for the "drain in the bottom of the tank" noted in the Owner's Manual, I became frustrated because "I don't see no stinking drain". The bottom is a slick as a newborn baby's butt.

Am I missing soemething here?

In any event, I got some 1/2" FlexPlex, a valve and "T", which were installed between the tank and pump (my water tap is very low on the tank). All's well in River City now and I can drain the tank simply by opening the bay, connecting a hose, opening the vent and valve.

Now, is someone going to tell me where the water tank drain is on a 1999 36SDS?

Go ahead; make my day.
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Old 09-09-2007, 04:44 PM   #17
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Bob,

The handle for opening the fresh water drain is located at the top of the basement, drivers side, front of the basement. There is a lever to pull down, attached to a cable. The cable opens the fresh water drain. It drains under the coach, near the propane tank. It does a wonderful job of draining the tank!! It is a little on the slow side though.
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Old 09-09-2007, 11:24 PM   #18
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Jeff,

You might check the function of your drain valve. My valve produces a flood of biblical proportions and empties the tank in no time. It looks like a huge (diameter) drain pipe. I'll measure it tomorrow. (While figuring out Jim's suggestion to stop my tank from siphoning off).
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Old 09-10-2007, 02:40 AM   #19
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Oh. You mean that handle that looks like a Choke cable thingey that WRV put in a place a Moron couldn't miss.

Well, you've made my day. All that work for nothing.

The discharge tube is about 1-1/4" ID and drains water in Biblical proportions. Even after I drained all I could with my "Home-grown" drain solution, opening the drain valve produced a massive amount of water.

I would have posted this a bit earlier but, as we leave this morning for the Mystic ACE Rally, an answer was not expected in time. Silly me.

Thanks to all for this little "Pearl of Wisdom).
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:37 AM   #20
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Where can the necessary items be purchased from to move the water tank pickup from the side to the bottom?
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Old 09-10-2007, 09:32 AM   #21
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Takepride,

My front overflow had a 1/2 inch pipe thread fitting on the end of it where it exits at the bottom of the coach. The modification I made was the connect a Flair-it right angle connector to overflow line. I ran PEX to another right angle fitting and ran tubing up to the top of the propane compartment and connected it to the inlet side of a Champion brass vacuum breaker. Then I ran the line back down from the outlet side of the vacuum breaker to the bottom near the cabinet door, and put a Flair-it valve on it so that I can shut it off when the overflow starts. With the vacuum breaker it should not be necessary to close the valve, but I do anyway.

I got the vacuum breaker from the local Ewing Sprinkler supply. I bought the Flair-it fittings and the PEX tubing online. Most camping supply stores will have them too. Since the line is not under pressure, the Flair-it fittings are probably overkill. But they are easy to work with.

I used 3M high strength doublestick tape from Ace Hardware to tape wood blocks to the coach frame, and screwed the tubing and the vacuum breaker valve to the wood blocks instead of drilling into the coach frame.
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Old 09-10-2007, 10:05 AM   #22
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Thanks Jim! I'm heading over to double check everything on the coach after lunch and then over to Ewing. You're right about since the line isn't pressurized the PEX may be overkill (I tend to overkill everything, too). I'll look to see if PVC or vinyl line will work. It's important to look good to, especially with this group, LOL.

Do you think using those cable ties that have a mounting plate with double-stick would work? I might try that.
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Old 09-10-2007, 07:32 PM   #23
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Takepride,

I'm thinking perhaps WRV made a mid-year switch on the drain. My drain pipe appears to be about .5 to .75 of an inch diameter. I estimate it drains 2 gallons per minute when there is a lot of water in the tank, then slows as the fill level drops. One one occasion it took 40 minutes to drain the tank. I had plenty of time to read the Cummins and Allison Manuals

At the Newport pre-rally I tried a different approach. I disconnected from the local water supply and ran turned on the faucet. It drained the tank at least as quickly as the drain valve does. Though, I suppose that this solution could create a need to drain the grey tank!

Bob, glad to help. Those of us that own one of the "Ancestors" gotta stick together!
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Old 09-10-2007, 10:55 PM   #24
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I think I may have whipped my tank into submission and with an easy fix....

On the front overflow tube, I removed the nut with the screen and installed a 1/2" PVC street-elbow (to point it along the bottom of the tank), a 1/2" adjustable p.s.i. one-way check valve (set to 5 lbs., adjustable to 10 lbs.) a close thread nipple and reinstalled the nut with screen. Cost $3.80 at Ewing. Time 4 minutes plus shopping.

The theory behind my plan is that the rear overflow will allow the tank to vent. The front one is a backup in case the incoming water pressure is too much and could bulge or burst the tank, when it reaches full (or forgotten as I am apt to do). My one-way check valve will open at 5 p.s.i and prevent tank damage. Since the valve is spring-loaded it will stay closed, preventing reverse contamination, bugs, etc., but will also stop exiting water not under pressure. Siphoning has only the weight of the water in the tube which ought to be far less than the valve setting.

I did not put a shut-off valve, as some suggested, since this defeats the design of an over-flow to also prevent a pressure back up.

I also decided against the atmospheric vacuum breaker as it's primary design is to prevent reverse flow of water only (which cannot happen on this drain), must be located above the tank level (which would leave a "trap" of stale water in the tube rising from the drain to the breaker) and uses a gravity valve that could be jarred askew during travel and not work until jarred again (not spring loaded). Also my innate laziness prevailed on the install.

I then filled my tank, which overflowed the rear tube, but when that stopped draining (90 seconds), still left my water level hugging the top of the tank (front previously siphoned 10 gallons while parked).

Now I'll have to see if the rear tube siphons while driving. I'll report back. I'm taking it to Coach Care tomorrow for round three with the air conditioners and AGS. I also will have them change the water pick up (to the pump) from the side of the tank to the bottom. I really want all 100 gallons.

As a side note: I was able to quiet the water pump by simply bending it's feet a bit further out from the mounting board. It may have been in slight contact with the board when accidentally bumped during cargo loading. I have another plan in mind to muffle it better. I'll post it, should it work well.
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Old 09-12-2007, 02:48 PM   #25
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It worked!

I drove the coach about 100 miles and didn't lose a drop. The tank is venting properly and the pressure did not build up when I over filled it. I have about 40 p.s.i water at my (house) tap and the excess water released only through the rear overflow tube. If elsewhere has higher p.s.i. it ought to vent through the front overflow too. The check valve opens at 5 p.s.i.

Here's the picture...



I ought to have the coach back from Coach Care soon and will be able to use every last drop through the bottom-of-tank pick up to the pump.
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Old 09-13-2007, 02:49 PM   #26
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Great fix!
Where can I get an adjustable check valve like the one you added?
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Old 09-13-2007, 04:16 PM   #27
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Nick,

I picked it up at Ewing Irrigation, right off the 405 Freeway in Signal Hill (Long Beach), 2899 Walnut Ave., Signal Hill, CA 90755, (562) 989-9530. They also have one in Anaheim and one in Santa Ana (more in other areas). Ewing Irrigation

If you go to the Signal Hill store ask Brian, the Store Manager, which one I purchased. We discussed it and he knows what it's for. It's a 1/2" CV-Series oneway adjustable (5 - 10 p.s.i.) checkvalve. Just tell him Milton from Take Pride.

Also see my post below about getting the rest of the water out.
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Old 09-13-2007, 04:27 PM   #28
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More exciting news (for me at least)!

After closer inspection of the front of my water tank, I realized that the tank is sitting on top of the edge of the main drain valve (with the choke-type handle) and not flat on the framing. It's causing stress on the tank and valve. But hence, a plan was hatched.

By moving the 1 1/4" drain valve back a couple inches, allowing the tank to properly settle into it's frame (2" lower), I can also "tee" into the drain line, between the tank and the valve and supply water to my pump. Now I will get every, last, little drop before the pump runs dry.

WRV's installation of this tank was atrocious. Not only was the main drain pinched into the frame (and holding the tank's weight), the original pump pickup connector is holding the weight of the back of the tank on the rear bracket (keeping it 1/4" above the frame). Very shoddy and obviously no Quality Control, they are both extremely obvious.

But alas, I'll leave no water drop un-used. I'll post a photo when it's finished up.
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