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Old 02-01-2007, 07:33 AM   #15
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Hi Jim,

Last night I read the Suburban furnace manual and it is full of warnings about users making changes. If the motor speed is slowed, won't the furnace overheat? I would be worried.

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Old 02-01-2007, 11:08 AM   #16
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I haven't been able to reach him with an email, so I'll give him a call tonight.
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Old 02-01-2007, 08:04 PM   #17
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I have one of His kits installed on my coach, It is not to Hi-tach.....A simple furnace filter that is held inplace to the wood cover, and some 1" thick fiberglass matt that is placed on the sides,top.....but in such a way to let good air flow. I would be happy to show anyone interested. At the SOCAL rally in LV this month.Just look me up!
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Old 02-02-2007, 07:14 AM   #18
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ChuckCz,

Would you be willing to upload some pictures of the kit?

Milo
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Old 02-02-2007, 10:35 AM   #19
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I've discussed this off line w/others as follows:
1) re: overheating- the furnace is equiped w/an over-temp limiting sensor. However, limiting airflow could still cause overheating of the heat exchanger severely limiting its useful life. If you can't get a quiter fan blade system, messing w/the CFM's is only for those who fully understand the intricacies of the flux capacitor (i.e. not me). And getting a quiter fan is difficult.
2) noise sources include fan (air movement across blades, reverberation of blades), fan mount, sheet metal surround expansion, sheet metal surround vibration, furnace mount to coach floor... Effective dampening addresses one or more of these. The ones that are easy to do seem to be:
3) Unit anchorage to coach- usually this is by metal strap which can be overly tight causing drumming or other sympathetic vibrations. You can isolate the strap from the furnace body with a heavy wool felt chafing guard, and fix the tension so the strap holds the unit in place but just.
4) Isolate unit from coach floor w/similar heat resistant, vibration absorbtive material.
5) Limit enclosure vibration. Plain sheet metal is pretty rattly stuff by itself. Commercial HVAC folks pop-rivet insulation blankets to duct chases and plenums to absorb vibration and to change the fundamental period of the metal box to eliminate much of the vibrating in the first place. I don't have one of these gizmos myself, but in addition to a ~3/4" dense insulation blanket well fastened to the box, I'd epoxy some 1/2 x 1/2 sheet metal angles to the exterior surfaces B4 applying insulation. The angles will do for the flat metal what HVAC guys do by crimping their metal panels B4 assembly. The gluing could be done in place. Make sure to use an epoxy that is good for fairly high temps (JB Weld?). Where there are removable sheet metal panels, make sure they mate to the unit w/a cushion strip to avoid metal on metal drumming (duct tape, rigging tape, felt strip w/adhesive back...).
6) Clean up the air path. In my roof top air conditioners, I dropped the air noise by over 3dB simply by zip-tying the random electrical spagetti together and out of the airflow path, and taping off sharp sheet metal corners. Inside the furnace I am willing to bet there are lots of sharp angles and interruptions that could be softened to reduce air noise.
My $.02. Or for about $12K on a retrofit, add HydroHot and junk out the furnace.
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Old 02-03-2007, 03:34 PM   #20
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I would love to post photo's of the "Furnace Fix" but I am without my Digital camera for a short time......will try later this month. :
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Old 02-06-2007, 03:16 PM   #21
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I received an email from Lowell today. He said he could come up with a kit after May 1, as he is on the road with his motorhome. He indicated it has a filter rack and a sound deading kit. It is intended only for quieting the propane furnace.

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Old 02-06-2007, 09:13 PM   #22
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Rick,
I hope he got the last one currently available in the mail to me before the ongoing frigid blast sent him out of the UP!
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Old 02-07-2007, 01:05 PM   #23
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As the proud owner of a new Apex, I am surprised Lowell is still in the "propane furnace business." Not aware of his kit/solution but looking to avoid any significant blockage of air flow, I was considering installing a simple baffle (piece of plywood, topside covered with carpet perhaps) under my bath sink cabinet/above the furnace fan opening. This baffle would lengthen the flow pattern by directing the incoming cold air across to the left side of the cabinet space (behind the electic/fuse panels)before entering the furnance fan. Seems that a lot of the fan noise is cause by the direct/short line of sight distance from the fan blades to the grill on the outside of the cabinet.....
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Old 02-07-2007, 03:02 PM   #24
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EM had a good idea about sound deadening. I think I'll try some "Dynamat", used in car doors and trunks. My furnace is under the refer, so I don't think I could make a longer intake runner. However a filter installed on the wood grille would help with the noise too.
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Old 02-07-2007, 04:15 PM   #25
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D&J- My noise measurements as well as observations in this and other coaches on roof HVAC noise show line of sight is seriously important. Coaches that have return-ducted roof air have the duct "baffle" in the way of line of sight to the fan apparatus, and have less in-coach noise.
However, the baffle may produce noise of its own if the air speed is too high. I tried a solid .25" plywood baffle under the HVAC return in my coach, extending 5"+ all around, and the air speed was too high to get any overall reduction in sound. Plus the baffle has to hang some distance into the room, so it wasn't a usable solution. Under the cabinet it might be.

You might also consider some sound absorbtive material on the inside of the cabinet box like "egg crate" foam as is sometimes used on beds. That stuff chops up the reflected noise and might further cut down on what escapes the cabinet.
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Old 02-11-2007, 09:10 AM   #26
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Followed thru and installed a baffle (20X18 inch) plywood shelf under the bathroom sink cabinet (behind the electric/fuse panels). Used aluminum bubble wrap insulation to cover shelf top. Cut furnace fan noise by about 75%. Also installed 12X12 pleated filter inside the cabinet space--to further reduce noise and to get some of the DRR-V dust out of the heating system. Cost--5$ for a filter and some scrap lumber; enjoying a quiet night of sleep--priceless!!!!
Living in south Texas, our plan is to never have to use the propane furnace but if we do, noise and dust shouldnt be a consideration. Think this approach could also apply to those with furnaces directly below your RV fridges--more space to fill but same concept. No help here for Hydro-hot folks--so buy more "End-dust?"
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