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Old 08-23-2011, 05:44 PM   #1
hax
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Galley Sink

Today I noticed that the aft side of my sink was about 3/8 of an inch below the counter and the silicone bead was separating between the sink and countertop. Under the sink I found two 3/8 inch trim boards with a strip of aluminum screwed to them laying in the plumbing. Neither board appears to have ever been glued, but I think these must have been glued to the bottom of the karadon to hold up the sink. The sink had a bead of clear silicone between the sink and countertop opening, but I doubt that this is strong enough to hold up the sink.
Does anyone know if that is how WRV installed the sinks?
I think I'll just epoxy the trim boards to the bottom of the karadon and put a new bead of silicone around the sink.
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:50 PM   #2
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Hax,

My sink fell out with a load of dishes and water in it! 2 years ago! I'm surprised yours held up this long!

Yes WRV used silicone to "glue" the sink to the countertop.

I glued 1/2 X1/2 strips all the way around,
siliconed the sink to the counter,
and screwed 10 pieces of aluminum C channel in those strips to hold the sink up...

Actually, I did what they should have done at the factory!
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Old 08-27-2011, 11:24 PM   #3
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P.S. - Your bathroom sink was installed the same way.......
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Old 08-30-2011, 03:20 PM   #4
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Yeah, for a while sinks were falling out left and right. WRV insisted the glue should hold (ours has, so far) and the wood strips were just temporary until the glue set. I'm not about to get into the question of WRV "should" have done...
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Old 08-30-2011, 04:50 PM   #5
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I do not recall what I found in my Damon when I fixed that same problem but It appears to be a "Wide" issue. Worst sink install I have ever seen.
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:25 PM   #6
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Silicone is the correct method of attachment for the sink to the countertop. Do not use any ridgid adhesives as the expansion and contraction rate of SS and acrylic are greatly different, not to mention the vibration. Chanells under the sink are fine as long as they are not bonded to the sink but just to the Kardon for insurance. A 2x4 across the top of the sink opening and across the bottom of the sink and then clamped through the drain holes and let stand for 24 hours is the best way to pull the 2 materials together. I am a kitchen designer and certified Corian fabricator and it should be installed the same as in the kitchen. We use hot melt glue for the insurance strips but I would not recommend this in a coach due to possible heat when not in use and the vibration.
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:36 AM   #7
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Sid:

Hot glue was, in fact, used by WRV to hold the wood blocks. And, indeed, they do/did fail. However, the silicone on both my sinks is still holding. (At least they were when I checked them yesterday.)
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:58 PM   #8
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My kitchen sink just broke loose on one side. Thanks for the informations on what to use to glue it back!
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:13 AM   #9
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Sid,
My galley sink just dropped 1/4" low. I'll probably use the silcone glue trick to replace it.....?
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:55 AM   #10
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I try not to get involved in these more "domestic" issues [right] but suspect the heavy Kardon sink covers we all travel around with, in place, probably contributes more to sink failures Vs "heavy" dishes. In addition to the daily bumping that occurs as you go down the road, it is fairly easy to give the sink another good jolt as the tendency is to "drop" the covers into place. Our sink separated a few years ago and I used wood strips and Liquid Nail [for ganite] to re-attach the sink--its still holding fine but sounds like I messed up--again!
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:27 PM   #11
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After our sink separated from the counter top I tried patching with additional silicon sealant, it lasted for a few months but separated again. This time I disconnected the drain plumbing, removed the sink, removed the basket strainers. Next, cleaned off the failed adhesive residue on the sink rim & mating surface under the counter using 3-N-1, chisels, sanders, etc. Once mating surfaces were cleaned, applied a bead of silicone sealant on rim of sink, positioned sink under the counter using 2x4 on top & bottom and clamped sink in place with a couple of bar clamps through the strainer openings. Left this in place for 48 hrs. Removed the clamps & 2x4s. At Ace hardware picked up a kit (clips & epoxy) for under sink installations, installed the clip bases with the supplied epoxy to underside of counter and left that sit for a day. After that, installed the fasteners on the clip bases & secured to sink rim. Reinstalled the strainers & drains. This was seven thousand miles ago, so far, so good.
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:18 PM   #12
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My sinks are still firmly attached. May be because I took those heavy Karadon covers off the day I bought the coach and never put them back. They look good in photos but serve no useful purpose as far as I can see.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:54 AM   #13
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These scrapers from Harbor Freight do a pretty good job of removing the old silicone above rim on sink w/out marring (you may need to re-sharpen after a while, but the plastic is remarkably hard). A sharp wood chisel on underside of Karadon along w/some 80 grit emery cloth do the trick. None of it is a whiz, fair amount of elbow grease needed.
Assisted a customer w/this on an 04 rig.
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:49 PM   #14
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BTW, using the threaded rod thru the strainer trick to tension the sink back up to the Karadon, tighten slowly adjusting the location of the sink vs opening as you go. And watch the bottom of the sink for deformation; its easy to warp the thin metal if you tighten too much. A little warp on the bottom shape of the sink is about the right tension. If you can see metal puckering you've gone too far.
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