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Galley Sink
Old 08-23-2011, 04:44 PM   #1
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Today I noticed that the aft side of my sink was about 3/8 of an inch below the counter and the silicone bead was separating between the sink and countertop. Under the sink I found two 3/8 inch trim boards with a strip of aluminum screwed to them laying in the plumbing. Neither board appears to have ever been glued, but I think these must have been glued to the bottom of the karadon to hold up the sink. The sink had a bead of clear silicone between the sink and countertop opening, but I doubt that this is strong enough to hold up the sink.
Does anyone know if that is how WRV installed the sinks?
I think I'll just epoxy the trim boards to the bottom of the karadon and put a new bead of silicone around the sink.

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Old 08-24-2011, 07:50 PM   #2
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Hax,

My sink fell out with a load of dishes and water in it! 2 years ago! I'm surprised yours held up this long!

Yes WRV used silicone to "glue" the sink to the countertop.

I glued 1/2 X1/2 strips all the way around,
siliconed the sink to the counter,
and screwed 10 pieces of aluminum C channel in those strips to hold the sink up...

Actually, I did what they should have done at the factory!

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Old 08-27-2011, 10:24 PM   #3
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P.S. - Your bathroom sink was installed the same way.......
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Old 08-30-2011, 02:20 PM   #4
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Yeah, for a while sinks were falling out left and right. WRV insisted the glue should hold (ours has, so far) and the wood strips were just temporary until the glue set. I'm not about to get into the question of WRV "should" have done...
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Old 08-30-2011, 03:50 PM   #5
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I do not recall what I found in my Damon when I fixed that same problem but It appears to be a "Wide" issue. Worst sink install I have ever seen.
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:25 PM   #6
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Silicone is the correct method of attachment for the sink to the countertop. Do not use any ridgid adhesives as the expansion and contraction rate of SS and acrylic are greatly different, not to mention the vibration. Chanells under the sink are fine as long as they are not bonded to the sink but just to the Kardon for insurance. A 2x4 across the top of the sink opening and across the bottom of the sink and then clamped through the drain holes and let stand for 24 hours is the best way to pull the 2 materials together. I am a kitchen designer and certified Corian fabricator and it should be installed the same as in the kitchen. We use hot melt glue for the insurance strips but I would not recommend this in a coach due to possible heat when not in use and the vibration.
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:36 PM   #7
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Sid:

Hot glue was, in fact, used by WRV to hold the wood blocks. And, indeed, they do/did fail. However, the silicone on both my sinks is still holding. (At least they were when I checked them yesterday.)

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