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Old 06-11-2010, 02:21 PM   #15
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Looks like they used some glue on the end of the spa tubing on mine, but probably wrong type for the material. Probably a good thing, as the next thing to break if that was a perfectly solid joint is the 90 degree elbow thru floor, which will be a beeyatch to get to when it breaks off.
The more flexible coupling will hopefully protect the elbow.
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Old 06-17-2010, 08:22 PM   #16
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All - I think WRV used the heaver hose so when the flexible coupling was tightened down, it would not collapse. I guess I will check the 90 with someone running water to make sure it's not leaking. Since this is a pipe with no water pressure associated with it, we could change the whole thing to the more flexible stuff mentioned above and be done with another wonderful design idea from WRV!! Because I have the mid door and APEX, I can see the plumbing coming down when into my HH bay, but it's still tight quarters, so if something breaks it's going to be very hard to repair if not impossible.
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:04 PM   #17
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Is the consensus to use pool hose still the best fix? We just found a crack in the PVC flex hose. My connection at the 90 is a hard glued joint. I don't know what the rubber boot did, but cover the connection. Maybe it was for abrasion resistance? Click image for larger version

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Old 06-03-2013, 12:48 PM   #18
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Pool vacuum hose is the best easily available replacement I know of.
I'm betting your connection is threaded. The flex pipe is glued into the white glue x thread fitting which is threaded into the black ABS. The threads will hang on pretty tight due to age but are installed w/some thread sealer.
If you use the same thread x glue replacement fitting, new 3M 5200 to fill the spiral groove in the vacuum hose, & new thread sealer after some elbow grease to clean out the exist'g threads, it should go in pretty easily. The 5200 should seal pretty well to the inside of the glue fitting socket; the rubber bell will complete any seal but you have to ratchet it down really tight.
The trick is to replace pretty exactingly ~24" of existing flex pipe. The closer you get to the same net end length, the more likely you will get a long life out of the repair. If you go too long or too short you will have new stresses on the setup that were not there to begin with.
I try to add some plastic cutting sheets spliced in between parts of the flex bundle so parts can slide versus each other more easily relieving stress, and one cutting sheet below the whole schmear to eliminate as much abrasion as possible.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:50 AM   #19
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The job is done. Glad I'm not a weight lifter. Tight fit in the cabinet. I used pool hose and two 1 1/2" male fittings to make my connections. Couldn't remove the threaded connector at the ABS so I left some PVC flex hose for my male to male connection.
Thanks.
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:03 PM   #20
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We solved this problem by bundling all the other hoses and things that were zipped to the water drain hose into their own separate bundle. Then we put a new piece of spa hose in that as about 12-15 inches long on the drain and added another boot for the remaining hose so that the line has two flex points instead of one. Works great...
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Old 07-12-2015, 09:50 AM   #21
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All things get better with age, right?
With passage of time, two slight improvements have come to this repair:
1. use SmartPond 1.5" i.d. flex tubing; available at Lowes, perhaps by special order in your locale, it has a smooth inner bore (contribution by Dale Gerstel), and
2. glue up the tubing threads w/3M 5200 & while wet insert into the new tube-x-thread end fitting that threads into the ABS elbow. Then seal up the opposite end tubing threads w/5200 & slide it into the hubless coupling. This forms a permanent tube with end fittings glued/sealed on.

Now you put RectorSeal or equivalent on the threaded fitting end & thread it into the ABS, slide the hubless coupling onto the cut off end of the spa tubing & tighten down.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:35 AM   #22
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Thanks for posting that info Mike!

I believe that my problem is with the rubber flex PVC coupling (2" X 2 1/2"?). I have not been able to gain good access as yet. (In fact, looking for a trained monkey ... know where I can get one?) If I lift up the white flexible PVC line with water draining it leaks right by that coupling and on to the floor. It also appears that the cabinet is pressing on the flexible white drain line when the slide is out which may be attributing to the failure. Of course, after 12+ years it's probably reasonable to assume rubber related failure can be expected regardless of other factors.

It appears that the shelf inside the cabinet under the sink is removable. Once removed, I should have better access even though it still looks tight. I'm actually thinking that perhaps a 45 degree extension on the black rigid PVC might avoid the cabinet pressing on it. However, I'll have to check out the full slide travel to determine vulnerability. Has anyone made this kind of modification?
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Old 07-13-2015, 03:07 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcbowers View Post
Thanks for posting that info Mike!



I believe that my problem is with the rubber flex PVC coupling (2" X 2 1/2"?). I have not been able to gain good access as yet. (In fact, looking for a trained monkey ... know where I can get one?) If I lift up the white flexible PVC line with water draining it leaks right by that coupling and on to the floor. It also appears that the cabinet is pressing on the flexible white drain line when the slide is out which may be attributing to the failure. Of course, after 12+ years it's probably reasonable to assume rubber related failure can be expected regardless of other factors.



It appears that the shelf inside the cabinet under the sink is removable. Once removed, I should have better access even though it still looks tight. I'm actually thinking that perhaps a 45 degree extension on the black rigid PVC might avoid the cabinet pressing on it. However, I'll have to check out the full slide travel to determine vulnerability. Has anyone made this kind of modification?

Bob, I have a watch squirrel, if you want to borrow him (non returnable), in fact I have lots of them up for adoption😈 seems like we have a bumped crop this year, must have been a bad winter!


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Old 07-13-2015, 06:39 PM   #24
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Drain Leak Update

Well, I was able to pull the shelf out of the cabinet today and gained adequate access to the drain plumbing (DAMN, I could sure use that squirrel Dave).

It turns out the rubber coupling is not the problem. The white flexible PVC line has a split right at the edge of the coupling. Looks like Engineer Mike is right on again! I'll be searching for some of that pool vacuum spa hose and some thick glue (3M 5200!?).

NOTE: Using "SPA" hose is pretty appropriate here in the Phoenix area with 107 degrees. The coach has become a spa since returning from northern Arizona (70's!); even in a garage. Thank goodness for the AC working!!!
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Old 07-18-2015, 05:22 PM   #25
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Finally fixed my drain leak and thought I'd share my approach ...

1. You have to remove the shelf (3 - side screws) and the back panel (4 - screws) to gain access even though it's tight. Suggest using a folded towel or similar material on the cross bar to avoid bruising your chest (Guess how I know?!).

2. I cut the white flexible PVC line at the split which was just outside the rubber boot/coupling (1 1/2" to 2"). I removed the rubber boot by loosening the 2 - straps. I removed all tie wraps to allow moving all the various lines & tubes. I used large channel lock pliers to remove the 1 1/2" PVC adapter fitting from the black ABS drain pipe. You can also use a medium sized pipe wrench but either way it takes some positioning to get leverage. The fitting was tight but not terribly difficult to get loose.

3. I installed a 1 1/2" ABS adapter fitting into the black drain pipe. I then added approximately 6" piece of black ABS pipe with a black 1 1/2" 22 1/2 degree ABS fitting pointed towards the inside of the coach. The 22 1/2" fitting is my idea on how to "center" the bending action in the white flexible PVC since the original bend was too sharp causing the break.

4. I positioned the slide about half way between retracted & extended. I added a new section of white flexible PVC and glued one end into the 22 1/2 degree fitting. I used a new rubber boot/coupling (1 1/2" to 2") on this joint for added support as was done by WRV originally. I cut both the new & original white flexible PVC lines at about a "middle" location just inside the front of the cabinet. I used a 1 1/2" rubber coupling to connect the 2 - sections of white flexible PVC . Done!

NOTE: You MUST use "ABS to PVC" glue when inserting the white flexible PVC into the black 22 1/2 degree fitting. The remaining ABS fittings & pipe require ABS specific glue. I used pipe joint compound on the threads of the adapter that screwed into the black main drain pipe.

There are 2 - advantages with this methodology (in my opinion). First, the 22 1/2 degree fitting seems to work very well at "centering" the bending action of the white flexible PVC line which hopefully will last longer (of course, 12 - years on the original isn't all that bad!?). Second, the 1 1/2" coupling between flexible sections provides a good point to start taking it apart if it ever fails again.

Drain tests pass with no leakage and the "centering" of the bending action was accomplished. My DW is back to being a happy camper!

NOTE: All parts were obtained directly at my local Lowe's store.
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Old 09-24-2015, 10:26 PM   #26
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Update / Follow-up

DO NOT USE ABS FITTINGS & PIPE to repair the drain line. The ABS to PVC did NOT hold!!! All fittings should be PVC with as deep of slip joint as possible. As an example, the 22 1/2 degree elbow I used only provided about 1/2"slip joint to insert & glue the flexible PVC pipe (tubing). I used ABS to PVC specific glue but this joint was doomed to failure and eventually came apart.

I now have used a 1 1/2" male adapter, 2" length of PVC pipe, a 1 1/2" coupler, and Oatley Primer with Oatley medium weight glue. Glue the adapter & short PVC pipe together first and then screw the threaded adapter into the existing ABS drain pipe. Glue the coupler to one end of the flexible PVC pipe and then on to the end of the short PVC pipe. The adapter, short length of pipe, & coupler are being utilized to provide a deeper slip joint for the flexible PVC pipe and to avoid having to insert the PVC pipe directly into the adapter.

Using all PVC fittings with the primer & glue will insure a reliable drain has been established. Hopefully, the integrity will last as long as the first drain - 13 years.
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Old 10-05-2017, 02:14 PM   #27
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This subject keeps coming up so I'll bump it to a current topic
Here is another link that adds some useful discussion on the repair
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