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Old 03-16-2006, 08:21 AM   #1
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In Aug (coach was 8 mths old)while using the convection oven,unit had a total failure. With a GE repair visit I was told the internal temp fuse had failed. His words "this I am told does not fail so we do not stock them"; "It will take 3 to 4 weeks as I have 2 others back ordered." He also said we should restrict how high a temp setting we should use (how stupid). Yesterday (7mths later)it appears the same fuse failed while we were again using the convection oven. we are at Aquanga so hopefully I can get help or advice,but I was wondering has anyone else had similar troubles? The three accessible fuses are not the problem.
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Old 03-16-2006, 08:21 AM   #2
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In Aug (coach was 8 mths old)while using the convection oven,unit had a total failure. With a GE repair visit I was told the internal temp fuse had failed. His words "this I am told does not fail so we do not stock them"; "It will take 3 to 4 weeks as I have 2 others back ordered." He also said we should restrict how high a temp setting we should use (how stupid). Yesterday (7mths later)it appears the same fuse failed while we were again using the convection oven. we are at Aquanga so hopefully I can get help or advice,but I was wondering has anyone else had similar troubles? The three accessible fuses are not the problem.
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Old 03-16-2006, 11:06 AM   #3
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clyde
had same problem while at WestWorld in Phoenix about a year ago. GE service had part as tech stated common occurance. My problem with unit is cheap plastic fromt panel. tech broke when repairing, now use folded cardboard to hold in place. larry
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Old 04-24-2006, 07:22 PM   #4
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DEJAVU; I get to return to the failure....Priceless. Having the Adventium fail for the second time in 14 months while at the Aguanga Rally I was assured by Max and others of the WRV team that they have not had problems with the GE product ( only one person answered my posting so it must be true. Again we were without an oven (micro or convec) for three weeks (lots of dining out again. Being over 1 year GE blew me off so Sears was called in to change the same internal fuse. We have used the Adventium 4 times and today, cooking at 400 degrees it failed again. If there is not an epidemic out there in Alpine land then I will be calling WRV for help with GE and an obviously defective macine (3 times in 14 months!
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Old 04-24-2006, 07:41 PM   #5
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Hello SkyGuy:

My mother-in-Law had a microwave oven which would blow a fuse every once in and while for no apparent reason. I finally went out and purchased several fuses so each time it would blow I would just replace it. It would last from a month to over a year and blow again. We could never figure out why it would do that.
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Old 04-24-2006, 07:56 PM   #6
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Skyguy:
I think Ohms law is at play here. Remember Volts X Amps = Watts. I think you may be in a park where the voltage is low, say 105 volts in stead of the required 115 to 120. That 10 volt drop will then increase the amperage to come up to the required wattage. Since amperage is what creates the heat this is probably what blew the fuse. Just a thought.........
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Old 04-24-2006, 09:11 PM   #7
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Stretch has the right idea ... the amperage has to increase to increase the wattage when the voltage is low. We try to always use the Hughes Autoformer "Buc & Boost" which is a transformer that keeps the voltage within safe ranges between my coach and the shore power. In a Park the voltage can vary dependant on the draw from other users at the same time.

I am a little surprised that the Advantium would be having such a problem because GE promotes it as "Top of the Line". I wonder if not having it vented to the outside has any significance to the problem. As it is - the hot temps go back over the top of it. We have ordered the Advantium -vented outside- in our new Apex. Makes us a little nervous about not having an oven!

What year is your coach? Doesn't the Advantium have a longer warranty than 1 year? What about WRV 3 yr warranty? The problem we had with our '03 coach was that WRV had the Sharp Convection Oven for 2 years before it was put in our coach so the warranty was no good by the time we bought the coach! What a surprise!
I certainly would be considering getting an extra fuse to carry along as Dave suggests - but I would first try to get them to replace the oven!

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Old 04-25-2006, 09:48 AM   #8
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IIRC, the Xantrex guy @ the Aguanga rally said something slick like, "fuses blow because their rating is exceeded." The simplicity of the statement had a certain elegance.
Either the fuses are bad (not likely w/multiple fuses obtained @ different times), or something in that oven isn't wired correctly (a condition that is likely for a small percentage over any large production run of ovens). Although park power is geeky on occasion, Skyguy experiences failure in multiple parks. And to blow a fuse due to under-voltage, I think you'd need a major undervoltage (fuses should be sized for the highest anticipated amp load, rounded up to the next standard size; the highest anticipated load should include any built-in spike draws, etc.; so a few percent change in volts shouldn't bring Ohm into the fuse dialogue in a disruptive way, although Ohm knows more about this than I so hopefully he'll post any contrary opinion).
GE should cover the defect IMO, unless:
The other condition that might place the blame in a different direction is a bad circuit by WRV, which could be checked by a knowledgable electrician using an alternate load like a 1500W blow drier or cube heater (measure volts & amps @ full draw & watch for spiky readings; gotta have good VOM/amp meter equip w/peak hold function).
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Old 04-25-2006, 10:31 AM   #9
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Thanks guys, First failure was in NH at a seasonal campground 30 amps; so maybe? The second two failures were here at ORA Rancho CA (we purchased a lot at the Rally) volts checked at 117 to 119. Our coach is an 05 FDQS, and fixing this special fuse requires some interesting disassembly. The failures do not occur when using the micro unit only when using the convection above 350 degrees so the lack of venting or the resulting cooling problems are suspect. Since no one else seems to have the history I suspect the unit was defective from the start. But we blew out our TV the first day at the factory (delivery); had to replace both ac units and controller at 5 mths, have had battery charger issues (inverter software), and problems with the inverter cooling fans sticking on (requireing full systems shutdown to reset). Do not know if this is signs of an electrical conspiracy or crappy coincidence; waiting for a callback from WRV.
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:32 PM   #10
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Skyguy,
I would go through the power input side of the coach and make certain your grounds are beyond question. They must all be good with no intermittent conditions. If they are losing their common ground, your appliances could be "seeing" 208 or 230 volts (depending on the phase relationships). This would certainly be sufficient to blow the fuse. Also check to hot side of the inputs. Bad connections there could cause spikes, however, spikes don't normally cause fuses to blow.

By the way, in regards to the "low voltage would blow fuses" comment...not too likely. A comment was made about lower voltage causing higer current and causing a fuse to blow. This will typicaly only happen with reactive loads (motors). Watts are a function of voltage and current; current is not a function of watts. Therefore, lower voltage will just decrease the current (for resistive loads). Pulses (long spikes) in the voltage would be the more likely cause...what would cause the spikes? Many things could but the most likely is an intermittent ground.
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Old 04-07-2007, 03:54 PM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Stretch:
Skyguy:
I think Ohms law is at play here. Remember Volts X Amps = Watts. I think you may be in a park where the voltage is low, say 105 volts in stead of the required 115 to 120. That 10 volt drop will then increase the amperage to come up to the required wattage. Since amperage is what creates the heat this is probably what blew the fuse. Just a thought......... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


Hi all,

I would stop thinking it's a problem with low voltage in your RV's. I'm a home owner with the GE Advantium 120 and it just stopped working today. No power. The unit is 1 1/2 years old (just out of warranty). I've done only a little investigateing so far...and this seems to be an issue with the advantiums.

not good news for any of us. Just hope yours doesn't fault

take care,
dan
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Old 04-07-2007, 03:59 PM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by skyguy62:
fixing this special fuse requires some interesting disassembly. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hi skyguy,

I hope your problems are resolved. Could you share any information on where to buy the fuse...ratings and type of fuse...and any disassembly information that would help?


thanks so much,
dan
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Old 04-07-2007, 10:21 PM   #13
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Skyguy,

We had the same problem with the Advantium in our '05 and were told the same thing about not having the problem. They were however able to get one overnight.

The Advatium in our '06 had the light fail 3 weeks out of the factory and GE sent a new one to Guaranty in Gilroy. The new on didn't seem to be heating properly so we had GE Service in Maryland check it and it seems the door got bent
during installation in Gilroy. So far the new one has worked for six months w/o a problem.

Sully
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Old 04-10-2007, 08:30 AM   #14
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The first replacement fuse was supplied by a local appliance repair service that GE sent out to Resort in Aguanga, CA.. The second came from "Sears Repair Mobile Service" and the third and fourth came from www.geappliances.com
The packaging envelope says GE genuine renewal part WB21X100 46 RMOSTAT-UPPER HEATE stands for thermostat upper heater.

GE told me customers should not replace this item themselves; after the three failures I felt I had too and I had watched closely as the work had been done. While it is easiest to do with the appliance on the ground getting it off the wall and back on is a major pain. If done in place you have to remove the black plastic grill on the top front (getting that back on is tricky). Next the aluminum plate has to come off; the fuse is left of center 2 inches in from the front of unit and out of direct vision. If the plate is solid (no holes for cooling airflow) and or there is no Tyvec fabric screen around the fuse; dont even waste your time changing the fuse. The early production models (many still in inventory when my "05" was built need to have the repair kit installed or you will keep popping this high heat fuse. I am not endorsing self repair as there are capacitors and stuff that may bite you in there. Both service techs said " I probably shouldn't be showing you this...." so if this is the first fuse failure for anyone I reccomend calling GE!
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