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Old 12-13-2005, 08:18 AM   #29
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I decided to verify what battery bank starts the Generator. I was wrong; it starts from the Cassis batteries. It is connected directly to the battery stud on the firewall below the Vansco panels. Sorry for adding confusion to the discussion.
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:59 AM   #30
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Wayne- The highly scientific theory under which I opted to run the parked coach with the key in Aux position was... um... der... welleruh...
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Old 12-13-2005, 01:56 PM   #31
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Ted III

This forum is a hoot! The more we ask questions the more we learn. Emike is amazing in his quest to understand how this machine works.

My coach meets my expectations now; the last 5000 miles have been trouble free and extremely pleasurable. Some of the defects that spun me up initially were more of the cosmetic nature. With advice from this forum I have been able to fix most everything myself. It shouldn't be this way but it sure raises your knowledge of a very complex machine.

I still have an occasional slide leak and a leaking rear jack but I am confident that I can get them resolved at WRV next July.
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Old 12-13-2005, 08:45 PM   #32
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Dang, You guys lost me on page one . I'm still studying everything that has been said. Maybe by this next summer it will sink in, or I'll take Elementary Electricity . I'm saving this one to my Alpine favorites!!!

EM, my coach lets me know I left the key in the AUX position by a noisy vaccuum pump in the dash HVAC cycling now and then . I leave it on because I forget .

You guys are great .
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Old 12-14-2005, 04:56 AM   #33
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Tom & Patty, when you locate the elementary electricity course or possible "electricity for dummies" let me know and I will gladly join you in the class. Possibly I could do it on line so I don't have to make such a fool of myself in public. All in all this has been a very intereting post and I believe the more we continue the more we all learn. That is assuming that E Mike and Wayne are obligated to stay with us.

Just as a reminder I have 10 more HP in my GT than you do.

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Old 12-14-2005, 06:41 AM   #34
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Sometimes I wonder what language EM ,Wayne and the others are speaking!! If I can just grab their coat tails.

I have to buy a ohm/voltage meter......at least it will look good in the basement displayed where everyone can see it . Seriously , what kind of meter/brand should I buy?

10 more horses.......I need NOx
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Old 12-14-2005, 10:11 AM   #35
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Tom,
1) I have the same vacuum gizzie intalled forward & roadside of the steering wheel, but on later models somewtime, they appear to have it wired only off the Run key position, not on Aux.
2) Good 12V source of info is the 12 Volt Bible for Boats. Good beginner's intro to DC in vehicles. Boats are sufficiently similar to land yachts that almost everything translates (even galvanic corrosion to some extent).
3) For a multimeter, Radio Shack makes great analog meters for under $50. I'd start w/an analog meter (I carry one in the coach, then a fancy Fluke jobbie certified OK for probing ECM pin-outs in the basement) cuz they are easy to relate the results for the uninitiated. The one I have is from RS & costs $19.95 last time I checked; I have a spare in the garage, same model, and another @ the office. It does DC & AC. The reference in #2 has a chapter on troubleshooting w/a multimeter. RS also sells a multimeter lead kit that replaces the cheap, short OEM leads that come w/their multimeters for about $5 or 8; I'd recommend that also. "The right tool makes a genius out of a clumsy idiot."
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Old 12-14-2005, 06:06 PM   #36
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EMike, as usual you are quite correct about the 12 Volt Bible for Boats. It is excellent. We had boated for 22 years prior to getting back into motorhoming and that was a book I was never without. Nice guy that I am I gave it away when I sold the last boat and I had truly forgotten about it. I will get another one. Thanks for the tip and the reminder.

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Old 02-10-2006, 09:57 AM   #37
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Old 03-01-2006, 08:58 PM   #38
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EMike, IRT the solenoid, does the Vansco #19 light being "ON" indicate a signal is being sent to the solenoid to close or that the solenoid is in fact closed? In other words, if the solenoid were defective and not closing when it should, would the #19 light still be "ON"? Thanks.
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Old 03-02-2006, 11:24 AM   #39
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htg- Couldn't say; you can probe the big stud on each side w/voltmeter to find out. W/lead clipped to or touching each big stud there should be zero volt (difference) across the solenoid when #19 is lit, ~12.5-13.2V when not lit. Alternatively, put the black voltmeter probe on a ground location (my coach has a copper wite ground stud on upper left of batt compartment that is great for this) and red to the big studs on solenoid; both should read charging volts when #19 is lit; one only @ charging volts means solenoid not contacting. My assumption was that #19 = signal, not contact (signal, ~13V, goes to one of the small studs when #19 goes on).
Another but more painful way to ascertain solenoid contact is grab the solenoid. If no burn, no contact; if burn (I've clocked the gizmo @ >135?F) then contact. Tho I suppose the sucker could be heating up by arcing inside while not making good contact) and the burn could be for naught.
Let us know what you find out.
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Old 03-03-2006, 08:46 PM   #40
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EMike, I tested the heck out of everything today. Without belaboring you with the details, the only significant event was that, after running the generator for a couple of hours and bringing the house batteries down to a 3 amp charge from the battery charger, light #19 never came on. There was a little flow through the solenoid, arcing I think as it was warm to the touch. I did test the solenooid with the battery boost button and could hear it click.
I had some trouble with the solenoid about a year ago and WRV had Saddleback install an Echo Charger. I wonder if they disable the #19 output (solenoid) when they install the Echo Charger. I'll call Saddleback on Monday and ask.
Have a great weekend!
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Old 03-09-2006, 06:41 AM   #41
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I talked with Mark at WRV recently about the problem with the generator shutting down when the engine was running and he said that considerable testing had been done and the conclusion was that harminics from either or both the charger/inverter or the engine alternator was feeding back to the Onan on the AC output. As a result, the Onan was sensing a faulty AC output and shutting down with a code #27. At this time WRV had not been able to get the parties involved to assume responsibility and resolve the problem. The current solution is to DISABLE the charger on the control panel when both engine and generator are to be used.
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Old 03-09-2006, 12:11 PM   #42
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Htg- You may want to go w/a bit more ammo to help get a straight answer (i.e. I can't tell from what you've reported if the lack of lit 19 is indicative of a problem). If house batt's are on a 3 amp charge, I presume you are reading that off a charger output meter or have put an amp probe on the house batt red or black wire. Good info; could you get house charge to less than 3 amps? It should go to less than 1 amp at some point. If it never goes lower than 3 amps, either there is a constant draw keeping batts from full charge or the batts are not taking charge beyond that point; in either case no 19 would be normal & proper.
Solenoid isn't engaged if only warm. When connected it gets more in the general neighborhood of dad-gum-hot.
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