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Generator Exhaust Connector
Old 09-24-2009, 10:40 PM   #1
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The rubber/steel shock-type connector that holds the generator exhaust off the ground and up closer to the coach body (attaches to the exhaust pipe and connects to a frame-mounted support bracket) is about worn out on our coach. The rubber portion is about worn through on one side.

I have had two Cummins dealers try to come up with a matching bracket but the ones they stock or order aren't the same and won't fit. As a safety precaution, I safety-wired the exhaust up to the support bracket in case the connector breaks.

Does anyone have a source for this rubber/steel connector?

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Old 09-24-2009, 10:52 PM   #2
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Take one of your's off, I'm assuming there are two (my unit has two) take it to NAPA or another part's store in your area, and let them match it up as best as possible. Good luck,
David G.

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Old 09-24-2009, 11:37 PM   #3
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WRV used the same gizmos for holding the over-the-axle HydroHot exhaust pipe in two places. Mine over the axle broke thru already. I did a temp replacement with plumber's strap and a multiple wrap of stainless safety wire. That HHot pipe was literally flopping around left-right where it goes over the axle hump. The one thru the rear mud flap still has some threads intact in the rubber junk, but barely. I think the rubber strap is made of the same material IMF uses to fabricate recording devices to relay messages to Mr. Phelps, as it appears to self destruct in 20 seconds.

I'm thinking of replacing just the failing cotton-thread reinforced guar gum strap with a suitably hydrated lasagna noodle reinforced with some sun-dried asparagus fiber as an improvement over the original stuff. Or maybe take some old bicycle tire and cut a strap out of it, maybe doubled, and rivet it in place of the bizarrely self-destructing rubber schmaltz.
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:05 AM   #4
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Don't hold back, Mike!
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:07 AM   #5
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I rebuilt mine with a piece of liner used for pickup beds. It is about 1/8 inch rubber with fibers embeded. I have also seen something similar used as floor industrial mats. You can replace the rivits with screws to facilitate future replacement.
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:45 AM   #6
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I will need to see exactly what is being discussed, Dale's picture I don't think showed it (brake lines issues thread), but why would not a piece of rubber tire (tin snips will cut the tire material), and use a drill 1/2 to 15/16ths (size depends on what diameter hold you need) drill bit to make several holes in it so its height could be adjusted. A tire based support would last a long time, as long as it does not directly come into contact with the heat generated by the exhaust pipes in question.

In my suggestion I am assuming, this is not wrapped around the pipes we are discussing.

If it is, then see if you have any electrician friends, and see if they have any old PVC pipe bending heat mats which have crapped out. Taking a piece of one of those would also work, being as it’s rated for 600 degrees. We used them to soften up PVC conduit prior to bending it into a funny angle we needed when running conduit for high voltage substations control cables. If either of these ideas won’t work, then I don’t understand the complete issue here and can be ignored.
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Old 09-25-2009, 07:34 AM   #7
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I replaced mine with a universal clamp I got at an auto parts store. The big issue with mine was the moron that installed the exhaust pipe pulled the pipe into position and it came out of its mount on the side of the engine. I removed the side panel and disconnected the exhaust pipe and straightened the mounting bracket on the generator. I reinstalled the exhaust pipe and it is virtually self supporting.

I installed the clamp and all has been good for over a year. I no longer here a banging sound when the gen starts and stops. I have a hunch that forcing the pipe into position was common practice. I remember the gen on my 2000 Alpine made the same clunking sound when starting and stopping the gen.


To get the side panel off you probably will have to drill of chisel the lower front bolt off. it is trapped by the front gusset.
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Old 09-25-2009, 09:11 AM   #8
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Standard exhaust pipe hanger from Auto-Zone should work
NOTE: I seriously doubt it will match, but the standard hanger consists of a rubber or leather strap with a metal strap on one side and a clamp type bracket on the other

You may have to bend the metal strap and/or cut it to lenght with a hacksaw

But the hanger hanger should work.
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Old 09-25-2009, 08:01 PM   #9
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If this clamp is failing check the mount inside the gen box. it is probably bent by the morons at WRV. After I fixed my bracket a clamp was really not needed, I put it back on anyhow, just to be safe.
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Old 09-25-2009, 09:43 PM   #10
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I'm glad I'm not the only one that has had this problem. EM, I think partially hydrated lasagne noodle might have some merit if it had a stronger fiber; maybe some horse hair or similar.

I was trying to find the same clamp; had not thought about taking it to NAPA or some place like that and seeing how close they can match it. My exhaust doesn't rattle and almost suspends itself, but it does have some vibration and that's what's contributed to cracking on the rubber, especially the side next to the front of the coach. So that search at NAPA looks like a good idea.

I was just wondering if there was a place that WRV bought these from that somebody might know about to make the search faster and easier. If not, the suggestions on old tire or plumber's PVC pipe bending mats look like good ideas for making our own.

I'll keep searching and see if I can find the close replacement and if not, find an alternative using some of these suggestions.
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Old 09-26-2009, 12:40 AM   #11
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Let us know if you find anything that works, the thing here is if you and EM are having it, everyone else will have it too!

Thank you.
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Old 10-02-2009, 12:09 AM   #12
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All,
After Cummins Coach Care changed the oil and filter in the Genset, I went out and checked the oil level and then did the inspection of the exhaust pipe bracket which started this thread. As everyone else is finding, the brackets on the Generator exhaust pipe and the Hydro Hot exhaust pipe, which dampen the vibration, are likely going to fail soon. I am going to try my idea of a piece of rubber tire. What I think they used was part of a recycled welcome mat which WRV cut up and used as a damper for that connection. The constant road debris and water has weakened the substance to the point that one side is broken in half so I need to address this when we get home. If someone comes up with a better material I am open to suggestion.

I will go to les Schwab and see if they will let me cut a tire up into some 1” wide strips about two feet long. Buying a universal exhaust bracket from NAPA or Midas muffler might also work, which also would be faster. The pickup bed liner is also a good idea, now who wants to sacrifice their PU liner?

As an aside, Cummins Coach Care did fix my front air bags so they now dump every time I go to level, so I won't have to be so pickey about unlevl spots any longer. It's nice when everything seems to work correctly.
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Old 10-06-2009, 12:06 AM   #13
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Monty:

I bet that leveling issue will be a great relief now. It feels good when everything is working right. Now if I can just achieve that point!
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:06 AM   #14
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Yes, when the "auburn money pit" works well, the household is happy, when not, we both get grumpy.
The coach is still in Coburg, the wrong hose was delivered this morning, and again, I think there was a problem with the one that came in the afternoon. The tech went up to the parts house to make sure he got the correct one, but it was not finished today, maybe tomorrow. I am letting them mostly alone, as they have been good about keeping me sort of informed what is going on. If they finish tomorrow morning, I will head down and pick it up.

But it will feel great, not having to worry about that copper line, and knowing the system has all fresh fluid and no air in it, so I can stop better. I took today and finished (almost) the even brake in the toad, tomorrow I will test the connections using the other car as a fake motorhome to make sure the wireless part at least is talking to the ICX unit.

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